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According to the manual they are supposed to cycle closed, opened, then around 95% opened. I think the jerk sets them at the 95% but it does not set the fast idle. Hence, it idles too slow for a cold engine.
do you know what the actual Idle speed is when running?
 
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After spending a lot of time with this thing I would expect the stv's to act much like a choke...close, open, then almost close. I think that's where the fast idle gets set. I may be wrong.
 

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After spending a lot of time with this thing I would expect the stv's to act much like a choke...close, open, then almost close. I think that's where the fast idle gets set. I may be wrong.
there is a mechanical activation of the Idle linkage in a link on the left side of the TB but most of the idle speed is set thru the ecm control of the injectors -- I think... I'll have to double check that.

The STV's do affect the fuel ratio much like the stv's on the old quadrajets and thermoquads but there are many more inputs to the ECM to get it right.
 
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I noticed that when I manually close the stv's that puts the fast idle screw on the higher step of the mechanical linkage. Then upon returning to the running position the tb is set for fast idle when started. Right?
 

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I noticed that when I manually close the stv's that puts the fast idle screw on the higher step of the mechanical linkage. Then upon returning to the running position the tb is set for fast idle when started. Right?
It is mechanically set for fast idle but if you move the throttle, I think that it drops off the step.

you have other sensors that affect idle and off idle operation. check these to make sure they are connected correctly...

Intake air pressure sensors (2) one for each cylinder... they need the electric AND vacuum connected.

Coolant temperature sensor..

intake air temperature sensor...

as well as the correct adjustments for the TPS and STVPS. These require a multimeter and the dealer code switch.
 

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Viper and so the rest of u know. I was having issues with my FI. it first started it in the spring checked it all out it work fine in till following spring it did it again. i live in the north east and what was happening was just a miniscule amount of rust was forming and when i would disconnect the wires look at them and plug them back in it would clean them and cause no problems untill it set for winter. a little dielectric grease solved all my problems
 

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Viper and so the rest of u know. I was having issues with my FI. it first started it in the spring checked it all out it work fine in till following spring it did it again. i live in the north east and what was happening was just a miniscule amount of rust was forming and when i would disconnect the wires look at them and plug them back in it would clean them and cause no problems untill it set for winter. a little dielectric grease solved all my problems
That eastern rust 'll kill ya.... :biglaugh:
 
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I haven't checked the IAP's or the intakes air temp sensor but I have chk'd all the rest. It really blew me away when the new ECM didn't correct it.

Soapball, I have chk'd all the connections and they are clean. One day it was fine and the next it wasn't.
 

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I haven't checked the IAP's or the intakes air temp sensor but I have chk'd all the rest. It really blew me away when the new ECM didn't correct it.

Soapball, I have chk'd all the connections and they are clean. One day it was fine and the next it wasn't.
What manual do you have?
 

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Thanks for now you guys, I'm going to sleep on it. Tomorrow's a new day.
Q's for when you're rested...

What area do you live?

What broke when you were putting the actuator back on the TB?

Have you gone through the testing and adjustment procedure on pg 94-95-96 in Clymers?

try adjusting the main idle screw on left side of TB (thumb screw) and fast idle screw..(Phillips head) just above it.

If you can't get results by adjustment as per the book, there are four possible causes listed - ECT, IAT, STVA, and wiring/connectors.

do you have a multimeter and dealer mode switch? I know you don't have a tach but you should get one to go on with this.

you can make your own dealer mode switch. we can help get you hooked up right...

an induction tach like this will work too...TTO Tach-Hour Meter at Trail Tech Home
 
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Harrisburg PA

Broke the plastic housing at the end of the motor shaft.

Pg 94, 95, 96 no

Did try adjusting the idle screws - need to get a tach

Chk'd the ECT, replaced the STVA, have not chk'd the IAT's yet

I do have a multi-meter and I made a mode switch (not a paper clip)

Thanks for the link for a tach, I do need to get one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I did not know you could move those valves (butterflies) manually.

I was always told that moving them manually would strip the plastic gears inside.

Is that not so?

My problem was on a bike I was rebuilding from a hard hit, it knocked that solder connection loose. I was able to find a STP sensor for sale on e-bay (a guy was parting out a throttle body). Mine was off a GSXR.

I'm wondering if moving the butterflies manual may have got the gears "out of sync" if that makes any sense, so that when you are setting the position according to your multi meter your not getting an accurate setting.

My problem was 6 years ago so my memory is alittle foggy.
 

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I did not know you could move those valves (butterflies) manually.

I was always told that moving them manually would strip the plastic gears inside.

Is that not so?

My problem was on a bike I was rebuilding from a hard hit, it knocked that solder connection loose. I was able to find a STP sensor for sale on e-bay (a guy was parting out a throttle body). Mine was off a GSXR.

I'm wondering if moving the butterflies manual may have got the gears "out of sync" if that makes any sense, so that when you are setting the position according to your multi meter your not getting an accurate setting.

My problem was 6 years ago so my memory is alittle foggy.
I read that theory about stripping the gears by manually moving the STV's too and was cautious because of that but after looking inside the actuator it is obvious that the gears are not fragile.

the force required to strip those gears would have to be against a seized actuator and as "rhoov" has said, adjustment and testing of the STV sensor requires manual positioning.

If the actuator has been a part, it might be that they are out of sync if care wasn't taken on reassembly.
 
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When I removed the STVA the stv's were straight up, so I was careful to position the plastic gear so the valves would be straight up when I put it back on. I figured that was critical.
 
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My main concern at this point is getting the stv's to function as they are supposed to. Look at Clymer pg 254 operational test step 8.

Here's a question for Clymer...step one is to disconnect the neg battery terminal. But before doing step 8 they don't tell you to connect the neg term. Are you supposed to do the test without power? Just kidding, I think most of us know we need power to conduct these tests.
 
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Now I need another STVA (DON'T ASK). This is really getting old fast. I've got my C90 drive arriving tomorrow to modify and I don't know which project will be done first. Anyone got one you will sell? I'm about at my whits end.
 
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