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I am headed on a bike trip to Texas the 24th so I am getting the bike ready which involves changing the oil.
I know there are quite a few threads on various forums asking about getting the filter off if your filter does not have the built in "bolt" so I thought I would share how I do it, which could not be easier.
Though many people hold them in disdain, I always use Fram filters, which do not have the "bolt" on them. I know there is "paper" inside them, but I change my oil and filter a lot and have used Fram filters for decades and never had a problem - so I just keep using them.

Of course the difficult part is getting the filter off because a normal oil filter wrench won't fit on it due to the frame, radiator etc.

I forget where I bought mine, but a few years ago I bought a "belt wrench" just because and discovered it makes changing the filter on the bike a breeze.
I can change an oil filter on the bike in minutes using this belt wrench.

All you do is slide the belt around the filter, THEN put it into the slot and remove the filter. The only "problem" is if the bike is sitting on just a flat surface, with the belt wrench I have the handle is too long so it hits the ground, not allowing me to turn it.
You could put the bike on a motorcycle jack and raise it up, but I don;t enjoy pulling out the jack for a few minutes worth of use so I just use a car ramp. I have a pair of those for when working on my cars obviously, but it works great for this and all you need is 2 2x4's, 2x6's etc.

I stand to the side, start the bike and ease it up the ramp. As the front end is so high now, I put the 2 2" boards under the kickstand. Now the wrench has plenty of clearance and you can turn it with ease.

It literally takes a couple a minutes to get the filter off from here. It takes me longer to get the tools etc than to change the filter.

I let the bulk of the oil drain out and before I take it off the ramp, I put the new filter back on it as I know you are not supposed to, but I do use the wrench to snug it up a bit after it is hand tightened.

Now roll the bike down flat, let the rest of the oil drain out , put the plug back in, fill it with your favorite oil and be on your way.

just thought I would share this as someone else might find it useful.
I understand why people buy better filters, but many buy them (K&N) just because they have the built in bolt so they can change the filter. With the belt wrench, feel free to use any filter you desire and it is just as easy as changing one with the bolt on it.

Take this for what it's worth.
 

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ah, i just use a plastic filter wrench, or muscle it with my hands.
but that belt tool is more multipurpose and probably can be used other than oil filters.
 

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I use this. Works for me.

 

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Hi Don,
Great info!
Thanks for sharing
 

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Perhaps it is me, or the way I learned to put oil filters on cars and bikes, but I hand tighten them and never seem to have problems hand loosening them when it comes time for removal. I have not had leaks when only hand tightening. On my cars, I lube the gasket and spin on until it meets the surface, then I tighten and loosen a few times to make sure it is seating well, then tighten about 1/2 turn after seating. On the bike, the threads are a bit finer so one full turn seems to work fine.

However to be honest, I have been buying the K&N Chrome filters that have the nut on the end, however I've not yet had to use a wrench.
 

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Perhaps it is me, or the way I learned to put oil filters on cars and bikes, but I hand tighten them and never seem to have problems hand loosening them when it comes time for removal. I have not had leaks when only hand tightening. On my cars, I lube the gasket and spin on until it meets the surface, then I tighten and loosen a few times to make sure it is seating well, then tighten about 1/2 turn after seating. On the bike, the threads are a bit finer so one full turn seems to work fine.

However to be honest, I have been buying the K&N Chrome filters that have the nut on the end, however I've not yet had to use a wrench.
I have always done the same thing with cars, with no problems. However, on my Vol, I once saw some oil spots on the floor under the bike. After getting my pulse back down to under 200 bpm, I checked it out and found that the filter had worked loose, probably a month after the oil change. I now use a filter wrench to tighten them after an oil change.
 

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I have a set of aluminium caps of various sizes to fir different filter sizes. I got it from Harbor Freight, I think. The cap has a a square drive on which you can use a wrench and a square hole in which you can insert a 3/8 drive ratchet. Years ago, I had an oil filter wrench, which had a metal belt/band. The filter was so tight that it punctured the filer sides and the hot oil soaked my beard. What a mess not to mention the burn. That was on a car I had bough used.

My biggest problem is inserting craftsman jack or HF aluminium jack under the bike since it had been lowered by the previous owner. I don;t want to raise it since the seat is at the perfect height for me.

I have to straddle the bike and wiggle it side to side while another person, usually my wife helps me slide the jack under the bike.
 

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Perhaps it is me, or the way I learned to put oil filters on cars and bikes, but I hand tighten them and never seem to have problems hand loosening them when it comes time for removal. I have not had leaks when only hand tightening. On my cars, I lube the gasket and spin on until it meets the surface, then I tighten and loosen a few times to make sure it is seating well, then tighten about 1/2 turn after seating. On the bike, the threads are a bit finer so one full turn seems to work fine.

However to be honest, I have been buying the K&N Chrome filters that have the nut on the end, however I've not yet had to use a wrench.
On cars I always just hand tighten the filter as much as I can - probably a little less than one full turn after contact.

Are you aware that the Suzuki manual says to just make contact with the gasket, then tighten TWO FULL TURNS BEYOND THAT?

I try to do that, but after about 1-3/4 turns the nut on the end of the K&N filter begins to round.

Here is exactly what Suzuki says:


OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT
• Drain the engine oil as described in the engine oil replacement
procedure.
• Remove the oil filter with the special tool.
#09915-40610: Oil filter wrench
• Apply engine oil lightly to the gasket of the new oil filter before
installation.
• Install the new oil filter. Turn it by hand until you feel that the oil
filter gasket contacts the oil filter mounting surface. Then, tighten
the oil filter two full turns with the special tool.
NOTE:
To properly tighten the oil filter, use the special tool. Never tighten
the oil filter by hand.


I would be worried that 1/2 turn past gasket contact is not enough given what the Suzuki instructions are. Or maybe it is enough and whoever wrote the Suzuki instructions gets a constant chuckle out of all the mechanics/owners trying to get that second turn on the filter!
 

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On cars I always just hand tighten the filter as much as I can - probably a little less than one full turn after contact.

Are you aware that the Suzuki manual says to just make contact with the gasket, then tighten TWO FULL TURNS BEYOND THAT?

OIL FILTER REPLACEMENT

• Remove the oil filter with the special tool.
#09915-40610: Oil filter wrench
• Apply engine oil lightly to the gasket of the new oil filter before
installation.
• Install the new oil filter. Turn it by hand until you feel that the oil
filter gasket contacts the oil filter mounting surface. Then, tighten
the oil filter two full turns with the special tool.


Great. The cup I was talking about looks just like the one one you wrote above. I do make make two turns after first contact. I must have paid attention. I bought the tool before I changed filter the very first time.
 

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been using that filter wrench...09915-40610...since 2004...have ridden over 150k...change my oil every 2k...so guess you could say I change my oil pretty often...never had any issues using this product...next to the mustang seat...best purchase I ever made...and under $10.
 

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Just my .02 cents...
Years ago, I invested in a GearWrench nylon strap oil filter wrench. They're still relatively cheap and can be found on eBay for a good price. I've used this over the years on various bikes, autos, trucks, even my old tractor. Using a 1/2" drive socket wrench--- and even an extension, if necessary ---you can virtually loosen any over-tightened filter. I've never had it fail.
I have numerous oil filter caps for various applications, but this bastard will bust loose filters where the caps slip...or there's insufficient clearance to properly seat the cap.

The nice thing is that that the gripping loop is woven fabric...rather than hard nylon, a rubber strap, or metal loop...so it's easy to hand snug it and maneuver it for different applications.
 

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My biggest problem is inserting craftsman jack or HF aluminium jack under the bike since it had been lowered by the previous owner. I don;t want to raise it since the seat is at the perfect height for me.
I have to straddle the bike and wiggle it side to side while another person, usually my wife helps me slide the jack under the bike.
I just roll the back tire onto a piece of 2X8. Gives enough height to slide the jack under the bike.

Cheers.
 
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