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Discussion Starter #1
I just de-PAIR'd and the instructions I had only listed the C90 as needing the valve connected to keep the FI light off. Well, so does the C50 I discovered after a test ride and then searching the forums!
I was then left scratching my head trying to figure out where to hide the 1lb 2oz behemoth:
okay, so the solenoid can be removed from the bracket thus making it less of a chore to hide but still...

I then wondered if I could replace it with a resistor but my forum search came up empty. I checked it's resistance to be about 20 ohms. That would take a beefy resistor to replace it with. I did a couple of tests and shorted the connector with several resistors I had lying around:
470 ohm 1/2 watt
4.7K 1/2 watt
10K 1/4 watt
They all seem to keep the FI light off, at least at idle.

I built my resistor plug using the 4.7K ohm 1/2 watt:












[/img]
I will update after a proper ride test...

Update: 8/31/10 Just finished a weekend trip and no problems with the FI light. The 4.9K resistor appears to work just fine.
 

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thats how mine has been for about a year now wiseguydave. im doing a handful or two of mods right now, with the assitance of my cousin, and he was wondering why it couldnt be disposed of. his thought is that it will eventually cut a wire. i dunno, its been fine so far
 

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Thanks for the writup and photos Redfire!

I should mention for everyone's consideration that only the SOLENOID needs to be retained, and not the whole "behemoth" assembly. The solenoid itself is that small cylindrical (gold colored) part that is held to the assembly with two phillips screws.

I'm quite sure that your setup will hold up fine to the rigors of long days on the road, and with your permission, I'd like to be able to share your information with the occasional Pair Valve Removal Kit customer who wants to take it up another notch by including this information on my pair valve information website.

Thanks again for the input!
Moccasin Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Oh I'm sure my setup will hold up to the rigors of the road. What I am not sure about is the value of the resistor I chose. The FI light is off at start and idle And light revving but I don't know if the electronics will still be happy after putting the bike through normal driving patterns on the road.
In any event, what I've posted is free for you to use and reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update: No FI light problems during my weekend trip. The electronics seem to be happy with my 4700 ohm resistor.

Also, a 1/4 watt resistor would be sufficient since the power at 15 volts is less than .05 watts.
 

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Update: No FI light problems during my weekend trip. The electronics seem to be happy with my 4700 ohm resistor.

Also, a 1/4 watt resistor would be sufficient since the power at 15 volts is less than .05 watts.
First of all I'm new here, been lurking for awhile, found this to be the best C50 site!

Redfire- At the beginning of your post you chose a 4.7 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, and here at the end of the post you have stated a 4700 ohm reisitor.

I'm confused.

I'm just buttoning up my bike and my next step is to make your little ingenious reisitor plug, which do I use?

Another question for any one...if I do set off the FI light, what happens? A code like a car's ECU (as well as the red light)? How do I clear it if it happens?

I have a '07 C50, black and chrome. When I get a chance (at work...hahaha) I'll get my profile together and post my bike. I've had it 3 months and love it! Quite a bit different than my motocross background!
 

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There is a thread around here somewhere, about someone else trying this and he ended up with an electrical fire and thinks he may have fried his ecu.
 

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Thanks for the link.

Sounds like he overheated the resistor, maybe need a higher wattage to prevent heat buildup.

I thought the 4.7 ohm wouldn't suffice. I used a 1/2 watt 10 ohm since the solenoid is 20 ohm (wanted to get it closer to the application).

I may go back and do the plug with a 20 ohm, 3 watts (or something like that) to prevent heat build-up. Or make some sort of heat sink for it, like epoxy it onto piece of aluminum plate. The higher the resistance, the more heat is going to be generated.
 

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I talked to an elctrical engineer here that helps me out with some of my lab instruments and said that the 4.7 ohm isn't right, it will heat up. He made some suggestions, said the 50 ohm 3 watt is much more preferable. Also a heat-sink would be nice for that just-in-case scenario. Also the computer senses voltage, either no voltage (open circuit) or 'some' voltage (closed circuit). All you would need is just enough voltage to keep the light off. Since we don't want a total short circuit, the resistor idea is the only answer.

So I just ordered a 50 ohm, 5 watt heat-sinked mountable resistor (Allied Electronics 895-4489 $2.65).
Probably mount it on the chrome cover (out of sight).
I'll keep you guys informed how it works.
 

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This is want screw up my whole elec. systems. The FI light was on for three week, I it did have time to work on it. Then one day it stop coming on for the first 4 1/2 min. of a ride. I'm not sure where to start try to fix it.
 

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The higher the resistance, the more heat is going to be generated.
That does not sound right to me. The higher the resistance, the lower the current draw (Current =Voltage / Resistance, I=E/R). This implies that the higher the resistance, the less heat is going to be generated.

The highest resistance you can get is infinite resistance, which means that nothing is connected to the voltage source, and that means that the least power is drawn (none) and the least heating takes place (none).

If you did not burn out the 10 ohm 1/2 watt resistor, you should be twice as safe with a 20 ohm 1/2 watt resistor. You may even be able to go to 1/4 watt, but since I have waffled about everything else in this post, I certainly am not going to recommend the lower power.

I am not an electrical engineer, I only play one on TV.

Jan
 
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