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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have any sketches or just dimensions for the different sizes. :?:

I'd really be interested in 2", or a combo set for 1.5" & 2" so I could make some.
 

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Try here http://www.therusks.com/

If you dont see it there with all his instructions let me know I have just about downloaded every one of his pdfs. The man has great information. I have made the bones but don't have a jack to install yet, also built the worlds cheapest light bar from his site cost $75. I'm also a big fan of his UNI filter set up cost $14 looks are priceless.

Go there then bookmark it you'll go back.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mike Meadows said:
Try here http://www.therusks.com/

If you dont see it there with all his instructions let me know I have just about downloaded every one of his pdfs. The man has great information. I have made the bones but don't have a jack to install yet, also built the worlds cheapest light bar from his site cost $75. I'm also a big fan of his UNI filter set up cost $14 looks are priceless.

Go there then bookmark it you'll go back.

Sorry, I don't see them there.
 

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Try this.
There is nothing magical, mysterious or expensive about making your own lowering kit. All you need is some 1/4 inch steel bar stock 1 1/2 inches wide, a hack saw and a drill with a 1/2 inch diameter drill bit. Of course it's always a good idea to know how much you want to lower your scooter before starting. For most people, 2 to 2 1/2 inches are plenty to give your scooter that cool squat look in the rear. For more vertically challenged individuals 3 to 3 1/2 inches may be in order. And if you want that totally slammed look then 4 inches is the only way to go.

Lowering your Vol or C50 is a simple matter of replacing the stock rear suspension linkage (known as the "dog bones" by some folks) with a longer version. This effectively lowers the rear of the bike without altering the function of the shock absorber. It also changes how you sit on the bike as it affects the overall geometry of the chassis. You sit lower to the ground which means you may have to adjust the handlebar position and relocate the windshield, if you have one, to better accommodate the new riding position. It changes how your feet rest on foot pegs too. You may find that forward shifted controls are needed to compensate for this change.

Ok, so what's the benefit of all this? Slamming the rear end lowers the center of gravity. This means better stability at lower speeds and nimbler handling at higher speeds. It moves your feet closer to the ground, which means those less tall, can sit flat footed on the pavement. A hidden benefit comes from adjusting, moving and/or changing other characteristics such as handlebars, foot pegs and windshields. This allows you to custom fit your motorcycle to you- to make it fit your physique, your personal attributes. This allows you to make your bike really yours.

Ready to get started? A stock linkage is pictured below. It is a stamped piece of steel about 6 7/8 inches long with a hole drilled in either end so it can be bolted to the shock and swing arm. If you pull the right side cover off of your scoot you can see it mounted at an angle just behind the shock.




The first step, in case you haven't done so already, is to decide how much you want to lower your bike. That's a personal decision and I won’t get involved with that. For those of you who have decided, take a look at the graph below. In it you will find the data you need to make your lowering kit.



To determine how long to make the linkage, first look up the amount of drop you want in the bottom most line. Let's say, fer instance, you want a 3 1/2 inch drop. Find 3.5 on the bottom line. Directly above that you will find 6.4375. This is the length of the linkage in inches center to center (c/c) of the holes needed to get that 3 1/2 inch drop. Now determine how long overall the new linkage has to be. Simply add 1 3/8 (1.375) to that number to determine the overall length of the new linkage. This gives the extra material needed on both ends for strength and for shaping after drilling the bolt holes. So, 6.4375 + 1.375 = 7.8125 or roughly 7 13/16 inches is the total length. The 1.375 constant applies to all lengths c/c contained in the graph. If you want a 1 inch drop, then the equation becomes 5.8125 + 1.375 = 7.1875 inches overall length. The picture below shows the different length linkages needed to give the amount of the drop stated. Now you can cut two pieces of steel to what ever length you need.



Now that the steel is cut, measure up 11/16 (0.6875) inch from one end and mark the spot. Do the same on the opposite end. Measure to 1/2 the width of the material, which should be 3/4 (0.750) inch if you are using 1 1/2 inch stock. Mark that spot. Connect that mark with the one measured up from the end. You should have a + marking where to drill the hole. Mark the opposite end the same.





Once the hole locations are marked, center punch the intersecting points of the lines. Now you can drill away! Be sure to remove any burrs or sharp edges from around the holes after they are drilled. Now it's time to shape the linkages. You can get fancy here if you like and style your new linkages after the OE version by cutting in the dog bone shape. Or, you can leave them square if you like. I personally prefer the added strength of the extra steel by leaving them square. The choice is yours. But, the ends have to be rounded for clearance of the shock and frame members no matter which way you go. You can use a compass or anything round to trace the shape of the rounded end onto the linkage. Then it can be cut, filed or ground into shape. Don't forget to apply some paint to your new linkages after final shaping.

There you have it. Your new lowering kit is ready to install as soon as the paint dries.
_________________






Ride Safe,
Rex
 

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Foxtail207 said:
Anyone have any sketches or just dimensions for the different sizes. :?:

I'd really be interested in 2", or a combo set for 1.5" & 2" so I could make some.
why not support John here on the site and buy them from him for less then 40 bucks....

he donates his profits.... and he has been making them for members for many many years
 

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Shooterrex:
I can't read your chart. The bifocals are not that good. :oops:
Could you resize and repost it please?


aVOL2:
Could you post the contact info for John on this site?
Nevermind....Search was kind to me today :lol: ...http://www.johnskits.com/
Be sure to mention you are a member of VR!

Thank You
 

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Ride Safe,
Rex
 

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Made my own...for what it's worth, I should have just supported
another VR member and bought them off the site.
 

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why not support John here on the site and buy them from him for less then 40 bucks....

he donates his profits.... and he has been making them for members for many many years
That's what I did. I have the ability to make them but as I get older I get wiser. Some things are just better left to other people. I rather be riding/sailing than working.:shades: That's what we done heere iin the deep south. 24/7/365
 

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Try here http://www.therusks.com/

If you dont see it there with all his instructions let me know I have just about downloaded every one of his pdfs. The man has great information. I have made the bones but don't have a jack to install yet, also built the worlds cheapest light bar from his site cost $75. I'm also a big fan of his UNI filter set up cost $14 looks are priceless.

Go there then bookmark it you'll go back.
Hi Mike
I know this is probably a long shot but do you still have the sketches for dog bone lowering. It would be much appriciated. I tried link you posted but to no avail.
 

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Welcome. You are replying to a 13 year old post and asking a question of a member who hasn't logged in since 2009. Members come, members go, a few of us stick around for the long haul.
 
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