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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well as some people know i just bought a 2005 VL800 C50. anyway i have been riding it quite a bit.. and im not 100% sure, but when i give open up the throttle it seems that the clutch is slipping? althou im not 100%sure if it is the clutch or not.. is there an adjustment i can do? or is it better if i get some new clutch plates and springs.. and put a new set in?

my understand is i will need
Gasket

Plates

springs

and ofc motor oil?
 

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I've been experiencing the same thing but it started doing it even more when I switched oils. I went from Mobil 1 to Lucas motor oil (I used the right one for bikes n not cars). Like you said it slips when you really want to open her up my thought it was the oil letting it slip not the clutches going out but I have yet to change them I was going for ebc kit hut I like to ride hard n don't know if they are going to be OK when they get installed we will see afterward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hmm yes. i dont neccessarily ride hard, but just buying it, i gotta have a phew open throttle goes before i slow down hah.. its not bad.. and i could probably let off.. altho i did notice it when i topped up the oil... i put 10w-40 in it... well.. i just put 1 litre in it... maybe thats what did it.. so maybe its worth dropping the oil and putting some thicker oil in.. probably wont solve the problem the clutch plates are more then likely starting to get a bit old.. but if it stops it for a month or two ill do a full overhaul later.. maybe its worth just doing a filter and oil change to maybe 15w40 or 20w-50???
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So is it gonna be a oil change and maybe a adjustment..or new plates and springs. . And im not talking its slipping bad
. Im taking example at 3500 revs it probably goes to 3600 and grabs again? Its incredibly minute and only at full throttle
 

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Drain the old oil and change the filter, refill it with 15-40 conventional oil not synthetic, many people are using shell rotella with good results.
 

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All right. A few things you need to be aware of.

1: the clutch operation is entirely mechanical in nature. There are not one, but THREE sperate adjustments that need to be performed periodically to keep it running properly. Information on how to do that can be found HERE:
http://www.volusiariders.com/58-motors-transmissions-drives/170041-free-perfect-your-clutch-manual-page.html
2: Since this is a new-to-you bike, how thorough were you on your pre-purchase inspection? Did you look at the tires for the manufacturing date? It is stamped on the sidewall. It will be a 4 digit number XXYY the first two being the week of manufacture and the last two being the year. If they are older than 2009, then you absolutely need to replace them ASAP due to age. Rubber degrades with time, even if it isn't used.
3: Did you do any of the other checks that were recommended to you before you bought the bike?
4: When you bought the bike, did you check the oil level???? You have already had to top it up, which means it was either under-filled on its last oil change or it is burning oil. It is not uncommon for these engines to do so with age, because of poor upper cylinder lubrication. Keep an eye on your levels and if it is low, top it up as needed. Also, keep track of how much it is using between changes as this is an indication of the level of engine wear. Switching to a thicker oil or a different brand won't help.
 
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Be sure your clutch is properly adjusted (by the book). And be sure you have proper oil. Some motorcycle oils have additives that cause slippage for wet clutches. You really need a full synthetic oil like Amsoil. There are several things that can cause your symptoms that don't require clutch rebuild.
 
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Wait.... I just noticed that you had to add 1 liter of oil to the engine. That is more than 1/3 the total engine capacity. That right there sends up a number of red flags.

When you checked the oil, did you do so on its side stand, or with the bike standing straight up in the air???? The approved method is with the bike standing straight up and down. If you added oil with it on the side stand, then you drastically over-filled the crankcase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes with the bike straight up and down..I did a good check over the bike didnt check the oil he said he did the oil change himself about 2k kms ago. He wasnt the brightest so im hoping he may have underfilled it.. tyres are less then a year old.. the bike was taken to my mechanic to do a safety check meaning they check things like tyres clutch breaks suspension lights forks everything to ensure its a safe bike. And with these checks mechanics have to be very fussy otherwise I was to have an accident tomorrow say. Touch wood. Due to a safety feature of the bike not working the mechanic that did the check would get sued.
 

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You're going to want to keep an eye on the oil level. I doubt that the PO underfilled the crankcase by that considerable of a volume. You're probably already using oil, which is common in these bikes as they age. Just keep an eye on the level and top it up as necessary. (I used to keep a quart in my saddle bag at all times.)

While mandatory safety checks are all well and good, they overlook some of the manufacturer specified maintenance intervals which are there for your safety. The first being that the brake lines are supposed to be replaced every 4 years. The rubber deteriorates and moisture penetrates the pores and contaminates the fluid. This can result in a burst hose or the boiling temp of the fluid is reduced to such a point that as the brakes heat, the fluid vapourizes and you lose all braking power.

There are a number of other maintenance items as well which are not part of the standard safety check, which you the owner are responsible for performing. Get a copy of the owner's manual and familiarize yourself with those requirements and their schedule.
 

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What is the mileage on the bike?
 

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42,000 kilometers (roughly 27,000 miles).
 

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42,000 kilometers (roughly 27,000 miles).
where does the OP say that? anyway, at that mileage, it could very well need plates and or springs. Depending on how aggessive the PO was.
 

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From his introduction and first round of questions on 11 Oct.

Hello.

My name is ryan and I am new to this forum. I live in australia qld on the sunshine coast.

Im about to drive two hours tomorrow to have a look at a 2005 vl800 assuming its the c50 efi model. It has 42xxx kilometers on the clock.. I was just wondering is there anything I should be taking into special consideratiob when buying one of these. What certain things to look for to make sure the bike is in roadworthy condition.. ive not bought a bike before more or less been given bikes so this is first time by myself.. I just want to go with a checklist of everything I should look carefully at before buying any strange notes. And if theres not already I belive in the bikes for sale section after someone helps me out with a list of things to look for to make it a sticky so other people may know what to look for. Just a suggestion

Cheers ryan
It is likely the clutch was never adjusted by the PO. Most people don't know it is there or what it is for if they do find it.

What I would be more concerned with is the litre of oil that disappeared in 2000 kilometers....
 

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From his introduction and first round of questions on 11 Oct.



It is likely the clutch was never adjusted by the PO. Most people don't know it is there or what it is for if they do find it.

What I would be more concerned with is the litre of oil that disappeared in 2000 kilometers....
This is the quote for the post #1 that i see... Well as some people know i just bought a 2005 VL800 C50. anyway i have been riding it quite a bit.. and im not 100% sure, but when i give open up the throttle it seems that the clutch is slipping? althou im not 100%sure if it is the clutch or not.. is there an adjustment i can do? or is it better if i get some new clutch plates and springs.. and put a new set in?

my understand is i will need
Gasket

Plates

springs

and ofc motor oil?
 

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Barnett. They're expensive, but worth the price.
 
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