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Discussion Starter #1
2005 C50 with 31,000 miles

I recommend removing the lower exhaust pipe.

Drain the oil

Pull the clutch cover. keep track of were the bolts for the cover came from.

It would be good to have an inch torque wrench to put it back together. remember this is “cheep” steel or aluminum if you over tighten (strip tight and another ¼ turn) you will strip out the threads.

Though my plates were within specks I opted to change out the friction plates any way.


clutch


clutch spring


clutch springs out


clutch


clutch


clutch


old clutch plats. The plate at my finger tip is the last plate in the set, this plate is larger/thiker than the others.


#6 Plate (the thicker plate) size. this is the one friction plate that is larger than the others.


#5 plate size old friction plate. this is the other friction plates.


new plate size



new clutch plates socking in oil


new spring


old spring



new gasket
 

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VERY NICE!

pics saved for reference.

I sense another sticky!!!!!
 

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Jim, thanks for the great pic's. But, why did you change the plates and springs? According to your measurements (everything within tolerance) you should NOT have been having clutch problems. What gives?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just got back from the new clutch trial run in Big Bear http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=alta+loma,+ca.&daddr=big+bear,+ca.+to:forest+falls,+ca.+to:alta+loma,+ca.&hl=en&geocode=&mra=ls&sll=34.18636,-117.261235&sspn=0.623658,1.235962&ie=UTF8&ll=34.161818,-117.154083&spn=0.623843,1.235962&t=h&z=10

I don’t believe what I have gotten use to. I got use to old balding tires and when I put on a new set I realize how much the old set was slipping.

Been a long time between valve adjustments, once I did adjust the valves I was pleasantly surprised with how much better the bike is now running.

I up graded the front break pads and am pleasantly surprised with the bikes ability to stop compared to the old pads.

Now I have been having problems with the clutch slipping a bit when I try to reach 80mph as fast as I can; been doing this for over a year. It did not seem to be that bad so I just learned to slow down on how fast I accelerate (did that make sense?).

Well today I went out on a nice 150 mile ride through my local mountains in Big Bear. I did not realize how much I had gotten use to the clutch slipping. The accelerating was much crisper, down shifting was much more responsive. Throttling through the corners was much smother. The clutch held when I went through the corners which meant I found it easier to hold the line and move through the corner.

Today I realized how much power I had been loosing due to the slipping clutch. The bike seems to be a completely different bike today. Before the new clutch when I down shifted from 5th to 4th to go up hill I thought that I had to do this down shift due to the bike being only a 800cc. well today I realized it was due to the clutch slipping.

I had originally planed on just changing out the clutch springs but when I check the old friction plates against the specks I realized I was just within the tolerances. So I decided if I could find new friction plates at the local stealer I would replace the friction plates. I am glade I did.

I know others will have different experiences with their clutch, this is my experience. I hope the pics help others in taking on this job. That help is the primary reason behind the pics.
 

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One other comment when I replaced my Springs to Barnett

I wanted to make one other comment regarding what I found when I replaced my springs with Barnett last weekend. I noticed in your pictures your dowells are perfect that the gasket sit on. My clutch cover tried to hang on the upper left dowell pin when I tried to pull it off. When I removed the cover off this dowell it was corroded and was causing the hang up I was experiencing. I have a not down when I have to pull this cover again to have both dowells on hand and at $.66 each they are cheap. I assume that water must have got past the bolt head on the cover and got to the dowell. I 400 sandpaper it smooth as I could and lubed it up, but I wished I would have had a new one. The lower right down, as you look at the side of the engine, was just as yours was in the pictures. I also used a very thin layer of Hylomar on the engine gasket surface and cover surface. This is a non-hardening gasket dressing/sealant that will allow you to take it appart easier next time and can let you reuse gaskets. I have used it for many years with great results on every thing from waterpumps to waterpump o-rings that side into a taper passage.
 

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are all the bolts that hold the clutch cover in place the same size/length?

I know when we did my Marauder clutch spring replacement, the bolts that held the chrome engine/clutch cover on were 2 diff. lengths, and HAD to be replaced in the same holes.

Thankfully I had read up on it, and was given a quick hint that before removing the new gasket from the package, take a sharpie and trace the gasket on the pkg. cardboard, and when removing the bolts from the clutch cover, insert them in the cardboard in the same holes you removed them from the cover. That way, you'll be sure to put the same bolts back in the same holes.

good pictorial. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
wehrd1 said:
are all the bolts that hold the clutch cover in place the same size/length?

I know when we did my Marauder clutch spring replacement, the bolts that held the chrome engine/clutch cover on were 2 diff. lengths, and HAD to be replaced in the same holes.

Thankfully I had read up on it, and was given a quick hint that before removing the new gasket from the package, take a sharpie and trace the gasket on the pkg. cardboard, and when removing the bolts from the clutch cover, insert them in the cardboard in the same holes you removed them from the cover. That way, you'll be sure to put the same bolts back in the same holes.

good pictorial. Thanks!
ya keep track of were the bolts for the cover came from.
 

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what do you torque the cover bolts back to?? what pounds? i don't think we have an inch torque wrench, just one in lbs. NEVERMIND...I found it in the pdf file. 7#

HEY!! mods, could you please STICKY this thread??

thanks
 

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Clutch parts

Great post do you have any info on tourqe specs on the bolts, cover and spring bolts, also did you use oem springs and clutch plates or are there better after market parts. I have the DJ drive and I have to slip the clutch a bit when riding 2 up, as a result I have a flat spot when I let the clutch out so I will be doing this mod this winter.

Thanks for any info
 

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Barnett plates and springs.
 

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I was just looking at Barnet they also have some competition clutch kits, a little heavier or would the normal replacement kits be enough ya think
 

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It is my understanding that the standard Barnett springs exceed OEM.
 

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I just wanted to thank the guys who put this thread together. I just did the clutch on my 2005 C50 and it was the easiest thing you could do following your instructions. I did use the barnett kit which i found for around 130$ and it works great. The springs do feel slightly stiffer at the clutch lever and it engages nicely.
 

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Glad I saw this one, the pics don't make the process look as imposing as I feared it will be. Noticing a bit of clutch slippage recently when I really hammer the throttle getting on the freeway. Thanks for the step-by-step!

Matt
 
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