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so.... let's just say that you DO pull the cluch in :nono:... hypothetically speaking ... how would one go about getting it realigned?

I put the clutch plates back together and bolted but have the cover off since I hadnt thoguht ahead to order the gasket and was moving the bike around the garage and pulled the clutch lever - there was NO feel to it so like a DA I kept messing with it. :brick:
:duh:
1.. do you have a manual?

2. Did you pull the clutch lever when you had the clutch plates removed from the clutch basket?
 

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clutch

Yes,I have a manual burried around here somewhere, I will dig it out.
Yes, I pulled it in with the plates out when I was pushing it around

thanks
 

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Perhaps something was out of position from when the lever was pulled when the clutch springs were not installed to keep things returning to the original position.

I would go through the disassembly again - compare the component positions to the manual and go from there.

Also remove the covers from the location of the lower clutch adjustment on the left side so the linkage action can be seen there AND you can do the COMPLETE clutch adjustment.
 

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I've done two Mac, mine and my brothers bike. It's pretty easy overall and should only take an hour or two at most. I bought Barnett kits for both bikes, they came with new springs and new steel plates along with the friction discs. I found the kits on Ebay for $150 each from a place in Tampa. You'll need the cover gasket and fresh oil to refill the engine. Soak the clutch plates in oil like previously stated, I dropped mine in oil the night before.

Put the bike in neutral and don't touch it again until it's all back together. The right side cover keeps the shifter in place and if you move it without the cover it'll be misaligned when you put it back together.

Drain the oil, remove the exhaust to get to the cover, remove the cover. You'll see four bolts in the clutch hub, remove those by gradually unthreading them a little at a time, they are spring loaded. Once the hub is unbolted you'll find a disc and then a steel plate followed by another disc and steel plate, a total of six(I think) of each. The instructions that came with the set showed one disc is different than all the rest, it's easy to spot this disc. I believe it goes in first followed by alternating steel plates and discs. Replace the hub using the new springs and tighten the four bolts by turning each one about a half turn alternating in a crisscross pattern. This is important because you're aligning the hub over the throwout bearing and compressing the discs, plates and springs all at the same time. If you tighten one or two more than the others it'll get misaligned and you probably will break one of the bolts, so tighten them evenly. This is where I thought I'll just put it into gear and it'll stop rotating while I tighten these bolts, DON'T DO IT, it'll miss align the shifter and you'll end up taking it all back apart.

Once the hub is tight, replace the cover with a new gasket, replace the exhaust and fill it with oil. Readjust the clutch for freeplay and take it for a ride.
 

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So, my mechanic informed me not to buy a clutch from ebay. But, I see a comment about a Barnett clutch kit from ebay? Did it perform well, and last as long as an oem from elsewhere?
 

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So, my mechanic informed me not to buy a clutch from ebay. But, I see a comment about a Barnett clutch kit from ebay? Did it perform well, and last as long as an oem from elsewhere?
Holy six year old thread, Batman!

As with everything, it depends on the seller. A Barnett clutch kit is fine. Assuming that the seller is actually selling a legitimate kit, where you buy it doesn't matter.
 

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IKR! I just bought my first bike. An '03 VL800. Having some problems getting into 1st, after bike has warmed up a bit. Not wanting to put a whole bunch of money into it, but is what it is. Just doing some research. Mechanic explained that a lot of clutches from ebay does not perform properly, and will burn up quickly. Some sites are just omg too much lol.
Thanks
 

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Just a thought but if you use the search engine and look for “full clutch adjustment”. I found the instructions straight forward and easy to follow. Best of all there are no parts to buy, just your time if you’re handy with some tools. Made a world of difference on my 2002 Volusia.
 

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I just looked for it and it’s under this tab and is called “ Free-Perfect your Clutch Adjustment With Manual” or something close to that. It’s the instructions I used.
 

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IKR! I just bought my first bike. An '03 VL800. Having some problems getting into 1st, after bike has warmed up a bit. Not wanting to put a whole bunch of money into it, but is what it is. Just doing some research. Mechanic explained that a lot of clutches from ebay does not perform properly, and will burn up quickly. Some sites are just omg too much lol.
Thanks
If it isn't slipping, you don't need to rebuild the clutch. If you're just having problems getting it into first, it's because you didn't have it in first when you came to a stop. Learn to downshift and your problems will be solved.

This is the way the clutch on the C50 works.
 
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