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Discussion Starter #1
I know I know, people are probably clicking on this going "NOT another one of these!". But it's not what you think!

I've been creeping on this forum for a few months with purchase of an 01 Volusia that was beat to hell and this site has been extremely informative. My current battle has been getting the bike to run right after putting in a used engine. (Previous owner said the engine was maintained..right up to when the piston shot out the front of the engine at 70mph. Fun times). I decided to go with the naked jug look, so the bike is de-paired, de-airboxed, k&n carb mount, and also I removed all the EPA crap because with the look I was going for, all the tubes and canisters were just plain ugly. A multitude of issues arose, between the bike cutting out a mile after riding, no top end power, and intermittent loss of power. I'm putting these in bold to help others when they go searching through pages and pages of info like I did.

From my experience here's what I suggest doing as ALL of these were symptoms, turning into one big issue:

1. Check the gas tank! If there's crap in there, then stop throwing money at the bike. Take the gas tank off and clean it out. Your little fuel screen in the petcock is probably clogged and it WILL make a difference.

2. Make sure said petcock is working. Take a vacuum line, attach it to the vacuum fitting of the valve and, without getting too excited, suck and blow so you can audibly hear the opening and closing of the valve. If you can't, it's probably dirty. Take it apart and clean it. Speaking of vacuum lines..

3. Replace ALL your vacuum lines, and use actual hose clamps. I don't care if you think they're new. They're not.

4. Fuel pump. If your tank was filled with sludge, so is your fuel pump. Try spraying some carb cleaner through there or if you're ambitious, take it apart. Don't lose all those cheesy plastic diaphragms and remember the orientation of everything.

5. Carburetor. This damn thing. Clean it! Mine was relatively clean from multiple seafoam treatments, EXCEPT where the fuel float needle seats. Take that screw and washer out and remove that needle seat. There's a strainer on the end as this is where the fuel from the pump enters into the carb. Mine was PACKED with crap. If I had to guess, the seafoam broke up all the debris, and sludge in my tank, and sent it all downstream into the carb and fuel pump. Also verify your float height, it's in the manual and makes more of a difference than you think if this isn't set correctly.

Rejetting: The Matrix is definitely your bench mark for tuning you carb, but at the end of the day it's a benchmark, and you'll need to tune your carb yourself. How to tune your Mikuni Carb. Extremely helpful when setting your idle mix, and also learning how to understand how the whole system works.​

6. Don't forget to adjust your valves. Its in the damn manual as periodic maintenance so I'm assuming you've A. read the manual, and B. have done what it says.

If you're feeling brave, I'm going to include this chart of Mikuni vs. Dynojet vs. Keihin main jet comparison. Something we've all seen already but this has the inner diameters of the main jets. I'm also going to include this chart which is for Drill Bit Sizes. You see what I'm getting at? Long story short, I drilled my main jet out to .070" which is a #50 drill bit or a 162 dynojet main jet.

One thing the Matrix doesn't tell you in which I saw this user struggling within this post -> Was the exact issue I was having. Power loss at higher rpm/speed, pulled the 'choke' out and it ran like a rocket. I also tried plugging the air jet, and that was the ticket. Bike runs like a champ now.

Removing the EPA stuff was a learning experience for sure. Should you decide to do this, at your own risk of course:
1. Vent from the carb that goes to the charcoal canister stays OPEN. That is your fuel bowl vent, and the bike WILL NOT RUN if it is plugged.
2. Vacuum fitting that goes to the carb surge control valve gets PLUGGED. In my opinion, it's just a massive vacuum leak if left open, and will lean your mixture out.
3. The main vacuum line that comes out of the right side of the carb (not the rubber Y that attaches the carb to the cylnders, thats your fuel pump vac line) goes to the gas tank petcock.
4. Fuel tank vent line stays open, if you plug it and don't have a vented cap, you'll create negative pressure in the tank and will no longer have fuel flow.

As a first time poster, I hope this helps some other riders with diagnosing their symptoms. This site has been a tremendous help for me and I'm just trying to reciprocate a little.
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