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Had the same exact issue happen to my C50 final drive.

This is what I did and it worked flawlessly.

Bought the spark plug thread repair kit called Save-a-thread. M14x1.25. You are correct about it being to long however the solution is simple and didn’t require removing the final drive from the bike.
Take your tap and run it in until it starts pulling itself in and begins cutting the next size up threads. Once that happens remove tap and grind the front smaller diameter portion off since it’s no longer needed. Then re-insert and cut the rest of the threads you need. Put sone oil through the drive to get any chips out as well as apply brake grease to your tap while cutting. Insert the helicoil with some high torque RTV and your basically done. Let it cure then reinsert your plug and your good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
So. Good news, bad news. Good news first. Not only does the new final drive have a perfectly threaded drain plug area, but I also have four replacement crush washers. It's got less miles than the one on the bike, so I am just going to use it. Also good news, I got the old final drive threaded for a 15mmx1.50 thread pretty easily and it has really solid engagement with the drain plug in it. Which means I can keep as a spare or re-sell with the caveat of it having the non-standard sized plug.



Bad news. I, apparently, have never come across a thread where someone explained how to connect the coupler at the transmission to the gear shaft of the final drive. Because I'm struggling to figure out how to do it.
 

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Some of the ‘DJ drive’ threads have hints for that.

They go ‘something like this’.

Use a broom handle to lift the u-joint into position. sometimes, rotating the engine with the transmission in gear to bring the rotation of the u-joint to where it will stay in that position.

That plus holding your tongue in the correct position will get it slid together...... ?
 

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Stabbing the drive back in can be tricky.

Rotate it so it looks like a + sign, then use a broom handle to get it centered.

You can rotate the shaft on the drive a little as your sliding it in. Don't force it.

Sometimes it goes in first shot, sometimes it fights you.

Be patient and you'll get it.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Hmm.


Appreciate the guidance. Every time I get the damn thing in position, it drops, because it's on the floppy vertical bit instead of the floppy horizontal bit. The U joint itself is horizontal instead of vertical. So I need to find a way to turn it vertical, to hold the spline coupler in place on the horizontal. I read something about dropping the stowage box and there being a boot you can move and use a screwdriver (in my case, a magnet on a screwdriver handle) to move it in place as you slide the drive home.



I guess I just need to take more things apart.
 

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Put the bike in neutral and turn the u-joint with the broom handle to where you need it.

I've done this at least a dozen times....you can get it without further disassembly.

.
 

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Did you get it back together?

.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Did you get it back together?

.

I did, last night around 6:30pm or so I finally slid it home, after two hours of bumblefuckery. I can't even tell you what combination of neutral, turning it, putting into gear so it wouldn't turn on its own, probing, pushing, sliding the coupler, etc, finally got it to allow me to put it in place, but it did eventually go. I ended up putting my old one back on because my thoughts were that somehow the new one was the problem (it wasn't).



I took it for a long ride to a bike night south of the city, and back again, I didn't find any leaks or drips or hitches in the ride. Gonna check again this morning, but I think the rethread, new drain plug and brass washer did the trick for the old one.
 

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Yeah, sometimes they slide right in, sometimes it's a PITA.

Of the dozen or so that I've done I've really only had one that I was ready to give up on, then it slid right in.

Someone on the site would probably buy that extra C90 drive to do a DJ mod on the 800 version so you should be able to recoup your $$$ on the extra drive if you decide to sell it.

.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Yeah, sometimes they slide right in, sometimes it's a PITA.

Of the dozen or so that I've done I've really only had one that I was ready to give up on, then it slid right in.

Someone on the site would probably buy that extra C90 drive to do a DJ mod on the 800 version so you should be able to recoup your $$$ on the extra drive if you decide to sell it.

.

I might. My repair seems to be pretty solid. The one I got from ebay has a bunch less miles on it, but they're pretty indestructible so long as it's taken care of. You think I can get out of it what I paid for it? (like $170 shipped because low miles, great condition).
 

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I might. My repair seems to be pretty solid. The one I got from ebay has a bunch less miles on it, but they're pretty indestructible so long as it's taken care of. You think I can get out of it what I paid for it? (like $170 shipped because low miles, great condition).

I think you could get 170 shipped for a low mileage C90 drive - just put "perfect for the DJ mod" in the description.


.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Awesome. My repair is holding strong so I'm going to just resell this final drive. I'll put it here and on ebay, see what comes of it.



Thank you guys again.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Well, apparently I did it right because I haven't had a single leak (even with the half cruddy crush gasket it came with). Thanks again for the suggestion of a quick retap a minor size higher. Changing the thread pitch and going up a size higher seemed like it might be a losing proposition, but it appears to be a great permanent fix.
 

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Getting the shaft back in really can be beyond frustrating and mind numbing.
I tried for hours.
Then I found a super easy quick solution:
Let your wife try.

Mine got it in about 3 minutes.
 
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