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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, so I have the dreaded issue that I have heard and read a lot about on multiple forums. Bike runs great for 1st 20 minutes then starts stalling out while in traffic or coming to lights. Starts back up immediately but you have to give it a bit of gas then runs fine and then starts acting up. Had the work done at local shop and they let the bike run for 45 minutes in 92 degree weather and ran fine. drove it home and it started acting up "Stalling out while in traffic or coming to lights". Called the shop and let them know whats going on, they said to bring it back in as it must be something else. Let it run in my driveway for over an hour and the only thing I noticed is sometimes it will idle high and then go back down to normal maybe once or twice in the hour. otherwise purred like a kitten.
Now the fan does come on when it is supposed to while riding and at idle so I do not think it is overheating, however she does run hotter than most bikes I have ever owned. My 1st Suzuki cruiser and I am thinking it maybe my last if i can not get it figured out.
I ordered a set of coils as some say it solved the issue but I do not think its a fire issue, leaning more towards fuel (pump is pumping good).

2007 C50 27,000 miles
New Plugs
New Oil
New Coolant flushed
New Clutch
New Fuel Pressure Regulator
New Injectors
New Fuel Filter
Tank drained and cleaned
Valves just done, small tick but much better than it was

Any thoughts...
 

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had a similar issue with my c90 some years back...turned out to be something with the throttle bodies...needed a good cleaning...then there was another time where same scenerio with the hesitation and stalling as I would slow down...brought in and when they had the bike apart they noticed alot of sparks coming from one of the plugs and realized the wire needed to be replaced that connected to the spark plug...good luck, hope its something simple,,,don't be so quick to move on...my 04 lasted to 87k.
 

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I had the same nagging issue and dealt with it for a few riding seasons. I finally decided I was going to fix it or run the thing off a cliff.

My issue was two-fold. The intake tubes, due to age and heat exposure, were no longer sealing. This allowed un-metered air into the combustion chamber causing a lean condition. Lean=heat.

That extra heat "cooked" the coils and/or wires which caused arching somewhere in that system. The coils tested good when cold.

Both the intake tubes and coils were needed to to resolve my issue.

The overheating of your bike while riding is tell-tale sign that it is lean. Replace both intake tubes and the two vacuum lines to the IAP senors. Ride it. If the issue returns, replace the coils.

Ron Ayers has all the parts needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, so I checked my vacuums and replaced the coils. Now I get a FUSE pop on the ignition every time I turn on the kill switch.

Coils hooked up with the orange down and other color up. Disconnect the coils and FUSE still pops. Spent about 3 hours looking for a short from the headlight to the taillight and nothing found.

At this point I have spent more time working on the POS then I have driving it. Every other bike I have ever own start it ride and park it and never worry about it HONDA...

Anyone have any ideas what I should look for. I have already checked all the connectors I can find and nothing looks unusual or broken, I have also taken the wire wrap off just about everything and nothing is broken of pinched. HELP!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I hooked up a cont tester with a light to the component side seeing how the battery side is fine and had voltage with a test light.. I disconnected all the connectors I could find (Radiator fan, temp switch, Ignition, coils, all the connectors in the headlight, the connector near the gas tank, etc..) and the light still stays on. Looks like all the lights, gauges and other basic functions are ok. Also took apart the kill switch and light still stays on. I also shook and twisted all the wiring harnesses.

Now I did test the first coil by firing the bike to check for spark with the bike as a ground. Does anyone think this could have shorted something major like a relay that is hidden?
 

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If blowing fuses was not part of the original problem, I would think a wire is pinched against the frame causing a short. I'd recheck all connections. It's possible one of the coils is bad and is shorting to ground. If possible reconnect the old coils as a test.

Stay at it. Maybe walk away until tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi guys, so please chime in on this one. I think I found the root of my issue I hope, I tore apart the entire electrical harness and checked every wire I could find. I did not find anything and taped it all back up nice. So down next to the fuse box I found the attached connector that goes to the Oil sensor, kickstand and the gear position sensor.

I disconnected the side stand and plugged the connector back in and fuse blew. Which eliminates the stand
The oil sensor wire is in tacked and only a single wire so I do not suspect that.
The gear positioning sensor seems to be the cause but would it blow the ignition fuse. And the wires go back up into the harness, when I tone them they tone all over the place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am using a CONT tester and the light is on at the fuse component side. When I unplug the connector the light goes off and the fuse does not blow, However the bike is still dead as when I hit the switch nothing happens because the connector is disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Another question I have is the GP switch on my bike has 3 wires and the one in the diagram attached only has 2, My 3rd wire is a ground and shares it with the stand switch.
 

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I would love it if it was the coils but fuse pops when they are both disconnected.
Honestly, you should to get back to the original issue. Blowing fuses was not mention until you replaced the coils. That now needs to be the priority and addressed.
To address your last question I attached a screen capture from the service manual showing wire connections.
Font Parallel Circle Auto part Rectangle
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the reply's, so after all that work I said the hell with it and ripped out the new coils and everything was back to normal.. Sad to say new OEM coils, tested both coils after I removed them and sure as hell they were bad. Mitsubishi needs better quality control!!! Tested my old ones and I still need to replace as 1 is showing low numbers.

Funny thing is without the Suzuki software tool it was impossible to diagnose as the display was rendered useless in CHEC state from the bad coils.
 

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Thanks for the update. Sorry to hear you went through all of that for a bad new part, but I'm glad you got it sorted out.
 
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