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Discussion Starter #1
I first removed the stock 1157 brake bulb, was not blown but stayed solid when bike turned on.

Was planning an upgrade anyway so went with an led blinker style (needs no capacitor to fix or whatever it's meant to be that way.)

Checked ALL fuses under right side cover, even replaced the blinker module just in case to test it and no bueno.

SO I'm kinda confused...I'm pretty sure my new fancy bulb is supposed to do its activated blinky thing then go solid at turn of key to start, and then stays on its basic red phase otherwise.

My only assumption is a stuck or malfunctioning brake switch depressed in at this point...but i know not where the 2 are and what parts i can actually spray down with say electrical cleaner or something..
 

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Throwing out the welcome mat for your first post.....Hearty welcome comrade.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Could use pictures of places where dirt might accumulate on these switches where it is safe to hit with wd40 or electrical cleaner.
Throwing out the welcome mat for your first post.....Hearty welcome comrade.
Thank you Dug, hopefully I'll get some answers soon!
Or a nice day to look into more..
 

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You are right that there are two switches: on right under brake leaver (a small plastic thingy), and second is connected to your brake pedal via a small hock on the back of brake pedal actuation mechanism. It should be easy to troubleshoot if one or both don't work as intended, as both switches should have a connector to disconnect from main circuit. Images from ebay attached (sorry, don't have access to my bike now). Read on below the images if switches are in good order.

This is rear brake switch (right foot pedal):
144476


This is front brake switch, or something very similar to it (front brake hand lever):
144477



There are two contacts on the back of the bulb and corresponding number inside bulb socket of a brake light. Jacket of the bulb socket is used for negative (common) and one of the contacts inside socket is used for running light positive, another is used for brake light. If you have a voltmeter/multi-miter, I would recommend checking that you get voltage only on one recessed contact when brake is not engaged. This gives you running lights.
If you get voltage on both, it probably means a problem with brake switch at the foot pedal or hand lever (or even both) [see above if you skipped that part] or you have a short in the socket or in the wiring going to the back of the bike.

I'm not 100% sure, but I believe Suzuki C50/90 from that period feed both voltages (running and brake) simultaneously to the bulb (in series) when braking. So regular halogen bulb would have both filaments light up. LED bulbs are usually smarter, and they light up when either or both contact get voltage, just change light intensity.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does anyone have said part numbers for the rear brake switch? Front one seems easiest to get.
Like, proper ones as well. (not universal Unless using one for replacement is totally fine to your knowledge)
 

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Google Oneida Suzuki, find your bike model and year, there will be a parts diagram for brake assembly, and corresponding part numbers for each piece. Find the switch, and you can order it from them or a million other places online. Sometimes used market is much cheaper. Replacing either front or rear switch should be relatively simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, whether dirt or something else weird...I solved the issue by unplugging the front switch, saw it still happening, so I narrowed it to the rear. Once I located it, I removed the spring from the bottom bracket, pulled the sensor rod down, sprayed with cleaner. Still seemed sticky so I then ended up using an adjustable wrench to adjust the switches height. This actually did it for me. Worked perfectly after! And the new LED style blinker stop light I linked above works flawlessly, I'm sure motorists will notice me breaking a little earlier and I'll feel safer out there!
 
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