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The aim of this thread is to make greasing of the brake pedal and gear shift easier for first timers with the boulevard C50 or VL800.

I usually just sprayed either WD40 or Lithium grease but its incomplete and I need to do it often. Also a it doesn’t reach a few places and it looks dirty overall.

First thing I would suggest doing is taking a few good pictures for reference. That way if you are stuck, you can figure out how it was does before.

Gear shift side.

1) Firstly, take a small spanner and loosen the nut labelled 1 in the picture

2) Use two spanners and remove part 4 from the floor boards. U need not remove the 2 bolts under the floorboard and remove the whole assembly. Its not required.

3) The main lubrication point is part 4 also called bushing. Gman bushing is a replacement part that is oil infused so you never have to grease that part again. If u installing a Gman bushing, this is the part you swap. Otherwise put some good grease all over it.

4) Remove the 2 rubber covers and put some grease inside the two ball joints. Put the cover back on. Point 2 and 3

5) Use a good degreaser and clean under part that is on the bike where number 1 was bolted on. Then use some good grease and spread it around

Install everything back the way it was and it will feel much smoother. I had very little scratches and wear even though this is the first time I am doing this in 3 years. So considering that, it would be good to do this once a year

Rear Brake side.

I don’t have many pictures for this. I was really frustrated and exhausted ( trying to put the engine guard on the bike alone). But its really easy. No need for pictures.

1) You need to remove the cotter pin and remove the bolt. This will release the brake lever from the brake rod. Remove 2 springs. One small spring near the brake pedal that controls the brake light and one on the rod under the engine that helps the brake pedal snap back to place.

2) Remove the hex nut connecting the brake level. Slide out the brake lever. If this is difficult then remove the 2 bolts and remove the entire assembly. Then use a rubber mallet to push the brake lever out. This happens because of lack of lube. Once you get the lever out, put some grease everywhere

3) Reassembly - If you have removed the entire assembly then the first thing you do is 1) put the two bolts back on and mount the floor board 2) Make sure the groves on the brake pedal and brake bushing is aligned or you will not be able to install the brake properly. Once they are aligned, you are free to put the nut back on and tighten it. No pictures from my side but look carefully and you will see a line on both the pedal and bushing.

4) Get the brake line in between the 2 parts on the brake pedal (don’t know what it’s called). Put the bolt with the cotter pin and secure it. Use a small hammer and pliers to help.

5) Put the two springs back on and check the brakes. You can grip the springs with pliers to help you install them

What I used was local unbranded grease rated NLGI 2. It is a mix of lithium and other mineral oils ,is on the heavier side and wash away resistant.

I haven’t lubricated the part under the generator. If you remove the generator cover, you will see it and can clean and lubricate it accordingly but It isn’t routine maintenance. I would do it only if I feel that something is wrong from that side and not my gearshift.

Please feel free to add anything if i have missed out on something.
All advices welcome
 

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The aim of this thread is to make greasing of the brake pedal and gear shift easier for first timers with the boulevard C50 or VL800.

I usually just sprayed either WD40 or Lithium grease but its incomplete and I need to do it often. Also a it doesn’t reach a few places and it looks dirty overall.

First thing I would suggest doing is taking a few good pictures for reference. That way if you are stuck, you can figure out how it was does before.

Gear shift side.

1) Firstly, take a small spanner and loosen the nut labelled 1 in the picture

2) Use two spanners and remove part 4 from the floor boards. U need not remove the 2 bolts under the floorboard and remove the whole assembly. Its not required.

3) The main lubrication point is part 4 also called bushing. Gman bushing is a replacement part that is oil infused so you never have to grease that part again. If u installing a Gman bushing, this is the part you swap. Otherwise put some good grease all over it.

4) Remove the 2 rubber covers and put some grease inside the two ball joints. Put the cover back on. Point 2 and 3

5) Use a good degreaser and clean under part that is on the bike where number 1 was bolted on. Then use some good grease and spread it around

Install everything back the way it was and it will feel much smoother. I had very little scratches and wear even though this is the first time I am doing this in 3 years. So considering that, it would be good to do this once a year

Rear Brake side.

I don’t have many pictures for this. I was really frustrated and exhausted ( trying to put the engine guard on the bike alone). But its really easy. No need for pictures.

1) You need to remove the cotter pin and remove the bolt. This will release the brake lever from the brake rod. Remove 2 springs. One small spring near the brake pedal that controls the brake light and one on the rod under the engine that helps the brake pedal snap back to place.

2) Remove the hex nut connecting the brake level. Slide out the brake lever. If this is difficult then remove the 2 bolts and remove the entire assembly. Then use a rubber mallet to push the brake lever out. This happens because of lack of lube. Once you get the lever out, put some grease everywhere

3) Reassembly - If you have removed the entire assembly then the first thing you do is 1) put the two bolts back on and mount the floor board 2) Make sure the groves on the brake pedal and brake bushing is aligned or you will not be able to install the brake properly. Once they are aligned, you are free to put the nut back on and tighten it. No pictures from my side but look carefully and you will see a line on both the pedal and bushing.

4) Get the brake line in between the 2 parts on the brake pedal (don’t know what it’s called). Put the bolt with the cotter pin and secure it. Use a small hammer and pliers to help.

5) Put the two springs back on and check the brakes. You can grip the springs with pliers to help you install them

What I used was local unbranded grease rated NLGI 2. It is a mix of lithium and other mineral oils ,is on the heavier side and wash away resistant.

I haven’t lubricated the part under the generator. If you remove the generator cover, you will see it and can clean and lubricate it accordingly but It isn’t routine maintenance. I would do it only if I feel that something is wrong from that side and not my gearshift.

Please feel free to add anything if i have missed out on something.
All advices welcome
i got the gman bushing for my 07 C50C. Plan on doing it tomorrow. hopefully it's not difficult. just pop the screw out, put the new bushing in then tighten to approx 5lbs. is there any angle adjustments i need to do to the shift lever or when i put back it should automatically go in the same way it came out?
 

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i got the gman bushing for my 07 C50C. Plan on doing it tomorrow. hopefully it's not difficult. just pop the screw out, put the new bushing in then tighten to approx 5lbs. is there any angle adjustments i need to do to the shift lever or when i put back it should automatically go in the same way it came out?
It's just a matter of changing out the bushing. Everything goes back together the same way. Takes less than 5 minutes to do.
 

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I noticed that even fully tightened down, my shifter has a little side to side play on the bushing. Mine's a 2008.
Looking at the OEM partsfinder, and also in these pics, the 2009 and up have "wave" washer instead of just a flat washer like mine has. I think this would take up the extra play and rattle mine has.

So has anyone retrofitted an older shifter with the newer washers?

Also, I only have a single washer behind the nut side. Your's looks like it has both a flat washer AND the wave washer. Where does the wave washer go. Between the nut/bushing, the bushing/floorboard mount, or the bolt head/floorboard mount? EDIT: OK, I see that wave washer has to be beside the bushing to do any good, but which side?
 

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just greased my shifter today, everything went well except for the small nut that goes onto the shifter rod that sticks out the chrome casing. I almost lost it there, after an hour of fiddling around with it, I was so close to dump the bike in the next ditch .... but just a second before I gave up I somehow made it and realised what I think was my mistake. I pushed the nut all the way back onto the rod and couldn't get the screw to screw in, but I guess the way it's supposed to fit is not to push it all the way back - then the screw went on easily. I think there are two different sizes of teeth on the rod, the bigger ones in the back coming out of the chrome casing and smaller ones on the outside end ...

I hope my text is somehow understandable.

And of course after taking the shifter off and put in back together for hundreds of times, as soon as "problematic" screw was back in place I reinstalled the bushing the wrong way around ....

But at least I know now.

Oh and before I forget: after 8 months my shifter was shifting perfectly fine but my bushing already has scratches, I think thats due to the fact that I unfortunately got the left side sprayed in salt while towing it to the garage last November ...


Just came back from the test ride: Does indeed shift smoother now, there wasn't a lot of grease in there to begin with. (Guess they didn't grease it at the 600mile service).
 
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