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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
No really that's what it is doing. It lost all power to the rear wheel. Bike runs fine clutch is new after the incident. SO basically i can run the bike and the rear wheel will creep but no response to throttle and i mean creep with bike on a stand she hardly rotates. If i rotate the wheel by hand there is a slight to moderate grinding noise around the pinion area. It has a bad grind when I let the clutch out and apply power. Looking for ideas im thinking draft shaft into pinion gear is jacked but i cant break it down. I Pulled out the Dive shaft and shes a rusty not sure how that happened but i cant remove the grease cap to removed the Shaft from the Drive. Any Ideas ??? I was told the Rear end was rebuilt and everything rotates as it should but She wont move. Can upload videos if need be....

Video - YouTube

Video 1 - YouTube
 

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If you hear something like clunking sound it is probably the teeth on your drive shaft are shot. The rust you saw are from a lack of lube on it. Suzuki was very bad at shipping out bikes with little or no lube on the drive shaft.
I'm sure others will weigh in soon.
 

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There is a c-clip holding the shaft into the drive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you hear something like clunking sound it is probably the teeth on your drive shaft are shot. The rust you saw are from a lack of lube on it. Suzuki was very bad at shipping out bikes with little or no lube on the drive shaft.
I'm sure others will weigh in soon.
My thinking as well but i can not get the Shaft out of the Drive. I am going to post picture now, standby.
 

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The driveshaft splines where they go into the rear drive are stripped. All too common on these bikes if not properly greased. Use a long flat screwdriver and a hammer and carefully drive the seal off the end where the shaft meets the rear drive. Stand the drive up, pushing down on the drive shaft, remove the clip holding the shaft into the rear. You will find plenty of rust and stripped splines on the drive shaft.
You will need at least a new Seal and Drive Shaft and some Moly lube.

Sorry, all this is done after the drive is removed from the bike and on a workbench.

http://www.volusiariders.com/58-motors-transmissions-drives/219556-how-inspect-rear-drive-shaft.html
 

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Was it like this when you bought it? Wondering if they might have " forgot" to put the spring in ehen they rebuilt it, letting the shaft to slip around and out of contact with the gears.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Was it like this when you bought it? Wondering if they might have " forgot" to put the spring in ehen they rebuilt it, letting the shaft to slip around and out of contact with the gears.
Spring for the Drive Shaft ? no it is installed the rebuilt the Rear internal to the wheel so the rack side. you can tell the drive shaft hasnt been removed
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The driveshaft splines where they go into the rear drive are stripped. All too common on these bikes if not properly greased. Use a long flat screwdriver and a hammer and carefully drive the seal off the end where the shaft meets the rear drive. Stand the drive up, pushing down on the drive shaft, remove the clip holding the shaft into the rear. You will find plenty of rust and stripped splines on the drive shaft.
You will need at least a new Seal and Drive Shaft and some Moly lube.

Sorry, all this is done after the drive is removed from the bike and on a workbench.

http://www.volusiariders.com/58-motors-transmissions-drives/219556-how-inspect-rear-drive-shaft.html
the link does not work for me, I have seen that Thread. Maybe there is a new link in the thread but i did not dig that deep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
As i suspected the drive shaft looks shot all the teeth are ground down and kind of wavy. I just ordered a whole new set up from the coupler forward, she should go after that is installed. Any ideas and getting that indent out of the coupler nut ? she is smashed down good and tight a bent the nail and proceeded to hammer my hand. c\cant seem to get the Flathead in there either....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Why are you trying to take the coupler nut off? The problem is right there in the picture.
I cant really tell how well the couplers teeth are so I thought mise well change it to be safe, not sure if the draft shaft when it shelled out tore up the coupler. Its 38 dollars better to be safe then a new 120 dollar drive shaft destroyed.
 

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What year is your bike? Jaster1138 is parting out an 04 and may make you a good deal on his driveshaft it they interchange.
 

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I cant really tell how well the couplers teeth are so I thought mise well change it to be safe, not sure if the draft shaft when it shelled out tore up the coupler. Its 38 dollars better to be safe then a new 120 dollar drive shaft destroyed.

Over the years I have been a member here, I have probably heard of 20 or more stripped drive shafts, and cannot remember a single one that stripped the coupler also.
I would just be more worried about getting the correct backlash set if the coupler nut was removed, that was why I was asking.

Oh, and you don't get that indent out of the coupler nut, just spin it off with an impact, the nut is a 1 time use.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Over the years I have been a member here, I have probably heard of 20 or more stripped drive shafts, and cannot remember a single one that stripped the coupler also.
I would just be more worried about getting the correct backlash set if the coupler nut was removed, that was why I was asking.

Oh, and you don't get that indent out of the coupler nut, just spin it off with an impact, the nut is a 1 time use.
Correct one time use but at least on axle nuts on cars you will damage the threads if you dont take the indent out.
 
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