[Coast_of_Maine]

I was reading some older threads and it was alluded to with the thought that they run hotter than the Volusia/carb engines.

Anyone have any thoughts on this?

If true was it corrected in the newer models?

Thanks

 

[Skrapiron]

Don't know. Mine was an '05 and it went south prematurely.

To be honest, it seems most of the Vol/C50 motors are soft. 75,000 miles without a major problem is rare. Most seem to develop a bad oil consumption or valve related problems at ~50k. I know I didn't believe it when I bought my bike. I was convinced it was a matter of maintenance. A matter of oil selection. A matter of how you rode. Nope. It is all luck of the draw. Some engines seem to be better assembled than others. There is no rhyme or reason as to why.

 

[805suz]

i dont like this news... are rebuild kits available?

 

[Skrapiron]

Sure, it can be rebuilt. Mine was quoted at $2200 for new rings, cam chain, cam chain tensioners, guides, and replacing any worn valves, valve seats or guides. That included labor tax and shop fees. I didn't do that, because the shop quoted me 3 weeks before they could get it done. Not in the middle of summer!

The other option is to swap out the motor with a used one from a wrecking yard or from ebay. You can usually find one ~$1200 or so.

 

[mfile2000]

We all know you used the wrong oil. (Baiting Steve Gray)

 

[Bob Penn]

I don't believe these engines are any softer then any others. I believe most early failures are caused by the difficulty to accurately adjust the valves.
I've heard some complain about excessive oil consumption. Well, what causes the oil to disappear. It either has to be dripping past an open or damaged valve or it's being blown out by ring blow-by.
As far as excessive heat goes I think you'd hear the cooling fan going on more often then later versions. That's the beauty of a water-cooled thermostatically controlled engine!
Many of these bikes get over 50k with no problems. It is at this point that you have to read the service manual. It's recommended you change the cam chain tensioners! As with any two cylinder 2 ringed motor you should change the rings and re-seat the valves and replace the valve guides. That's not just a C50's problem it's common on most V-twins with 50k + miles.

 

[Skrapiron]

If only that was the case, Bob.... I was religious about maintenance. I checked and SET my valves to the middle of the specified range at exactly 7500 mile intervals. I used only synthetic oil and changed it at 3400 mile intervals. I did not do a lot of riding on the interstate, preferring to ride the back roads (and slower speed limits) instead. It didn't matter. I got to 38,000 miles before I started really blowing through the oil. The fact that it could be seen and smelled in my exhaust when accelerating means the rings wore down and oil was getting by when the engine was loaded up. There is nothing I could have done to prevent it, either. It just happens. Some bikes go sooner, others last longer, but it has been a recurring theme with the C50/Vol for the 4+ years I've been a member here. They start dropping at ~50k, with a few making 60k and even fewer making 70+k. They can be repaired, but the cost of doing so often times is more than the bike is worth, so the owners move on.

 

[472viper]

'05 was the first year for fuel injection.

I think it is a generally held conception that these bikes ran lean from the factory and that was done to meet emission standards.

Could this "running hotter" be the result of "running leaner"? Makes sense.

I ran a fuel processor on my 05 and it had an oem airbox for awhile.

The processor allowed the bike to run alittle richer (yes, mpg went in the crapper) but the bike really ran alot better.

I really can't address running "cooler" with a processer, but I think it would have an effect.

 

[DrBob]

I don't think the Vol/ C50 has any kind of reputation for being soft. It last as long as any other motor in its size range. This is a big bike, longer and wider than a Harley Road King and weighs over 610 pounds. The Suzuki is only 805ccs, and it is geared steeply to get acceptable performance, so that engine is working hard.
Despite this, it seems to last just as long if not longer than other bikes in that same cc range, even when they are in lighter bikes. I think Suzuki did a darn fine job with this motor, and it lasts as long as can be reasonably expected. No, it is not going to last 150,000-200,000 miles like a Road King or GoldWing can, but a Road King weighs only 25% more but has 200% of the engine displacement; the GodlWing weighs 50% more, but has 230% of the engine displacement. Sure, they last longer, but the Road King costs 80% more than the C50, and the GoldWing costs two and ahalf times when a C50 does! For a large, heavy bike with a moderately sized engine, with a price tag of only $9,500 brand spankin new, I'd say that the C50 is a darn good bike with a life expectancy of 50-75,000 miles.

 

[805suz]

I wonder if these items from the service manual matter? How many people overlook this because they service the machine themselves and don't know or bother to check this out.

OIL SUMP FILTER
• Remove the oil sump filter cover.
• Remove the oil sump filter.
• Clean the oil sump filter using compressed air.
OIL PRESSURE REGULATOR
• Remove the oil pressure regulator.
Check the operation of the oil pressure regulator by pushing on
the piston with an appropriately shaped tool. If the piston does
not operate, replace the oil pressure regulator with a new one.
• When installing the oil pressure regulator, install the new washer​

​

​

​

​

 

[Skrapiron]

Not a whole l0t, actually. I did all of the maintenance by the book, including the oil sump screen and checking the oil pressure regulator. Maintenance (or lack there of) was not the problem. In fact, my maintenance routine was significantly more thorough than the one that the dealership followed for the bike.

Believe me, when I got the bike and the folks here were telling me what I'm telling you, it was 'Not a chance! It has to be something with the way they maintained their bikes!' I did everything by the book, used the best of what was available and never missed a maintenance interval. In the end, it could not prevent the engine from simply wearing out.

 

[Coast_of_Maine]

I tell you that I didn't burn any oil until I had the valves adjusted. Some people I trust tell me that misadjusted valves won't cause this, so I'm suppressing my suspicion. If it didn't cost almost $300 to have them checked again I would - but I don't want to drop that money on the bike if I'm going to trade it.

Anyone want to make $150 showing me in person how to do this myself?

 

[Skrapiron]

Ride down to pittsburgh and I'll show ya! I even made a tool that makes setting the valves a whole lot easier!

 

[805suz]

Anyone want to make $150 showing me in person how to do this myself?

if you lived closer, i would work with you on both our bikes for free :biglaugh:

 

[805suz]

Ride down to pittsburgh and I'll show ya! I even made a tool that makes setting the valves a whole lot easier!

pictures? thread?

 

[BIGBIRD123]

Come on Skrap...Show us your a"Tool"...

 

[Skrapiron]

I don't have it any more. It went with the bike when I sold it in May... :-(

 

[DrBob]

The valve adjuster on a Suzuki tappet is just a 4mm square. This is the exact same size as a square bit for driving deck screws. So get a screw with that 4mm square recess, either a short one or a longer one you can cut off.

Epoxy it into a plastic molly (one of those things you tap into the wall and then put a screw into.)

I like the one that is second from the left at the top, because you can bend the little tabs out to make wings. This makes it easier to hold, harder to drop inside the engine, and easier to tell how far you have turned it. Or use a Sharpie to mark it every 1/8 of the way around, longer lines every 1/4 way around it. That way you have an index to see how far you've turned it, helpful if you use the "back it off 1/8 turn" method instead of a feeler gauge.

Slip that puppy over the adjuster, and you have a nice handy little knob to twist it with, and to hold it in place with while you tighten the lock nut.

Alternately, get a really long deck screw with that same recess, and bend the head of it 90 degrees to look like an allen wrench. Bend slowly, heat it if you have a torch. Now, other than the threads, you have an exact duplicate of the special tool Suzuki charged like $20 for.

Or, if you can weld, braize a short deck screw to an allen wrench at the short end. Ta-da, Suzuki valve adjustment tool.

 

[Hi-Vis]

Great idea!

 

[Bob Penn]

The fact that it could be seen and smelled in my exhaust when accelerating means the rings wore down and oil was getting by when the engine was loaded up. .

I don't know about that! If the oil could be seen and smelled coming from your exhaust, that would tell me it was being burned in the cylinder not blowing by worn rings. If it was blowing by the rings the pressure would be in the crank not the exhaust. If it were worn rings it would also be a more gradual increase in oil consumption.

For $18 I bought Suzuki's valve adjustment tool. Not that much to make a pita job a little easier and a bit more accurate.