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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Everyone,

Thanks to the folks on this site, I’ve learned a lot when it comes to wiring on a motorcycle. However, I'm a novice at best, so I wanted to get some opinions about what I'm planning on doing before I mess things up.

I already have an accessories fuse box using a relay as shown in the Volusia Riders posting at:
http://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/162470-how-wiring-new-accessories-through-relay.html
That’s been done and working well for 2 years. It works great for automatically cutting accessory power when I shut off the ignition.
However, as I add more and more accessories, I want a little more control of turning devices on and off, yet I still want to have them all shut off automatically when I turn the bike off so I don’t drain the battery.
So here’s what I was thinking of doing… Instead of running everything directly to the fuse box, I was planning on adding additional relays and with a switch to control them. Basically, the power would be like the following:

Common
1. Fused power to a relay, which powers the accessory fuse block.
Per Switched Accessory
1. Then power from the accessory fuse box to another relay that’s controlled by a switch
2. Then power from that second relay to an accessory.

I still want the accessories fuse box, but I also want to be able to turn some of the stuff on/off manually

Are there any issues with that?

As always, thanks for the assistance!
 

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Without going into any remarks on your wiring plan, I would kindly remind you that your dealing with a C50 and not overtax the charging system with too many accessories.

At some point, you may be upside down regards to what the stator is producing and leave you stranded with a dead battery.
 

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Hi Everyone,

Thanks to the folks on this site, I’ve learned a lot when it comes to wiring on a motorcycle. However, I'm a novice at best, so I wanted to get some opinions about what I'm planning on doing before I mess things up.

I already have an accessories fuse box using a relay as shown in the Volusia Riders posting at:
http://www.volusiariders.com/60-help/162470-how-wiring-new-accessories-through-relay.html
That’s been done and working well for 2 years. It works great for automatically cutting accessory power when I shut off the ignition.
However, as I add more and more accessories, I want a little more control of turning devices on and off, yet I still want to have them all shut off automatically when I turn the bike off so I don’t drain the battery.
So here’s what I was thinking of doing… Instead of running everything directly to the fuse box, I was planning on adding additional relays and with a switch to control them. Basically, the power would be like the following:

Common
1. Fused power to a relay, which powers the accessory fuse block.
Per Switched Accessory
1. Then power from the accessory fuse box to another relay that’s controlled by a switch
2. Then power from that second relay to an accessory.

I still want the accessories fuse box, but I also want to be able to turn some of the stuff on/off manually

Are there any issues with that?

As always, thanks for the assistance!
The attached pic is what I understand you wanting to do from your description above.... light red is constant power. dark red/brown = power when switches are closed. Yellow is ground.

Do you see any potential problems? Any potential problems with the solution to those problems?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Without going into any remarks on your wiring plan, I would kindly remind you that your dealing with a C50 and not overtax the charging system with too many accessories.

At some point, you may be upside down regards to what the stator is producing and leave you stranded with a dead battery.
I agree, thats why I want to be able to choose what is on at any one time. That said, the accessories I'm planning on using don't draw much with the exception of the OEM driving lights.

OEM Lights
Cigarette lighter/usb power
Stereo <5Amps
LED lights
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The attached pic is what I understand you wanting to do from your description above.... light red is constant power. dark red/brown = power when switches are closed. Yellow is ground.

Do you see any potential problems? Any potential problems with the solution to those problems?
I believe your drawing is correct and that's my question. Are there any potential problems with doing that?
 

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I believe your drawing is correct and that's my question. Are there any potential problems with doing that?
follow the power flow to the accessory relay from the handlebar switch. That power only closes the accessory relay.

Now leaving the ignition switch off [as it is drawn] follow the power wire from the #30 terminal of the accessory relay, back through the fuse block to the ignition switch...... you will have NO power to the fuse block or the accessory relay unless you have the ign. switch ON.

If you attempt to activate the main relay from the handlebar switch, you will back feed the wire from the ign switch to the #85 terminal on the main relay.

Problem #1 with doing that is that terminal of the ignition switch will be hot all the time.[ you can fuse the wire from the handlebar switch to solve that but.......]

Problem #2 is that wire between #85 of the main relay and the Ign. switch may feed other functions that need to remain off when the key is off. In any case, I would not want to back feed the Ign. switch. That terminal of the Ign. switch is designed to be an output - not an input.[ to fix problem #2 you would need another relay between the ign switch and terminal 85 of the relay.]

It seems to me that adding a second/third individually controlled circuit that you want to have ON when the key is OFF will complicate things even more.

It's not that it can't be done but that more thought needs to be done on the total circuit.

The best way that I can think of would be to use that accessory relay to supply power to the fuse panel at terminal 87 of the main relay. That way you will have power to all the circuits in the fuse panel when the key of OFF.

It would be helpful to know what the actual individual accessories are and if you want them switched only by the ign switch, only by a handlebar switch or by both.


I know there are guys on here that have more electrical/electronics expertise. Here's hoping that they will weigh in ..... and either correct me or come up with another solution....
 

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Electrically that'd work fine, but you could have an issue with that new switch wiring, depending on how long of a wired run you end up with from the battery, through the switch, and on to the relay -- especially if you run it through moving parts like up to the handlebars.

Since the switched circuit that drives that relay doesn't go through the fuse panel, you could end up with a high current short from batt +12V to GND if that wiring were to get compromised along the way (rubbing on a tie-wrap over time, etc).

If you added an inline fuse to the left of that switch (or better yet - use an "extra" fuse in the existing panel, that would blow in the event that the wiring gets shorted, and wouldn't end up being an arc-welder demonstration until the wire melts, possibly starting a fire...

I've updated that drawing to show what I'm talking about.

-RenHoek
 

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Electrically that'd work fine, but you could have an issue with that new switch wiring, depending on how long of a wired run you end up with from the battery, through the switch, and on to the relay -- especially if you run it through moving parts like up to the handlebars.

Since the switched circuit that drives that relay doesn't go through the fuse panel, you could end up with a high current short from batt +12V to GND if that wiring were to get compromised along the way (rubbing on a tie-wrap over time, etc).

If you added an inline fuse to the left of that switch (or better yet - use an "extra" fuse in the existing panel, that would blow in the event that the wiring gets shorted, and wouldn't end up being an arc-welder demonstration until the wire melts, possibly starting a fire...

I've updated that drawing to show what I'm talking about.

-RenHoek
Thanks RenHoek. What I understand c50man wants to do is be able to switch ON the accy while the key is off. Neither of our circuits - as drawn - will do that.

PS... How did you modify my drawing.....? Good job!!
 

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I agree, thats why I want to be able to choose what is on at any one time. That said, the accessories I'm planning on using don't draw much with the exception of the OEM driving lights.

OEM Lights
Cigarette lighter/usb power
Stereo <5Amps
LED lights
Ok. I think I've got a solution for you but I won't be able to post it till tomorrow as I am on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Thanks RenHoek. What I understand c50man wants to do is be able to switch ON the accy while the key is off. Neither of our circuits - as drawn - will do that.

PS... How did you modify my drawing.....? Good job!!
I really appreciate all the interest and support. I just realized I F'ed up and gave incorrect information. Very sorry for my stupidity.

To clarify, there is no switch controlling the relay between the battery and the fuse box. I installed it so long ago I forgot that I didn't use a switch and I should not have confirmed the drawing Gene so generously posted. I am also Not looking to have any of the accessories on when the key is off.

The fuse box is wired with a fused wire to a relay and then to the fuse box. When the key is Off, there is no power to the fuse box. That part has been working for a long time.

What I would like to do is use switches to control individual accessories AFTER the fuse box. Basically, add additional relays that are controlled by mechanical switches/buttons between the fuse box and the accessory. The switches only support about 3 amps so I can't put them directly in line for power. That's why I'm thinking relays.
85 - ground
86 - wired to a switch then to the aux power in the headlight
87 - wired to the accessory
30 - wired to the fusebox

Again, I do not want anything to remain on when the key is shut off. but I want to be able to choose what accessories are on when the key is on.

Sorry for causing confusion. Apparently, I'm more of a rookie than I thought.

Thanks again for the patience, input and support.
 

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I really appreciate all the interest and support. I just realized I F'ed up and gave incorrect information. Very sorry for my stupidity.

To clarify, there is no switch controlling the relay between the battery and the fuse box. I installed it so long ago I forgot that I didn't use a switch and I should not have confirmed the drawing Gene so generously posted. I am also Not looking to have any of the accessories on when the key is off.

The fuse box is wired with a fused wire to a relay and then to the fuse box. When the key is Off, there is no power to the fuse box. That part has been working for a long time.

What I would like to do is use switches to control individual accessories AFTER the fuse box. Basically, add additional relays that are controlled by mechanical switches/buttons between the fuse box and the accessory. The switches only support about 3 amps so I can't put them directly in line for power. That's why I'm thinking relays.

Again, I do not want anything to remain on when the key is shut off.

Sorry for causing confusion. Apparently, I'm more of a rookie than I thought.

Thanks again for the patience, input and support.
Gotcha !!! That is way easier. I'll post tomorrow.
 

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I really appreciate all the interest and support. I just realized I F'ed up and gave incorrect information. Very sorry for my stupidity.

To clarify, there is no switch controlling the relay between the battery and the fuse box. I installed it so long ago I forgot that I didn't use a switch and I should not have confirmed the drawing Gene so generously posted. I am also Not looking to have any of the accessories on when the key is off.

The fuse box is wired with a fused wire to a relay and then to the fuse box. When the key is Off, there is no power to the fuse box. That part has been working for a long time.

What I would like to do is use switches to control individual accessories AFTER the fuse box. Basically, add additional relays that are controlled by mechanical switches/buttons between the fuse box and the accessory. The switches only support about 3 amps so I can't put them directly in line for power. That's why I'm thinking relays. For those relays, I was thinking of having a wire come from the aux connector in the headlight to a switch/button that goes to pin 86. Pin 30 would go to the fuse box. At least that's what I was thinking.

Again, I do not want anything to remain on when the key is shut off.

Sorry for causing confusion. Apparently, I'm more of a rookie than I thought.

Thanks again for the patience, input and support.
ok then RenHoek's diagram will work. I'd do it a bit different but that's ok. I'll still post mine n you decide.
 

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I agree, thats why I want to be able to choose what is on at any one time. That said, the accessories I'm planning on using don't draw much with the exception of the OEM driving lights.

OEM Lights
Cigarette lighter/usb power
Stereo <5Amps
LED lights
c50man:
I wouldn't bother using a separate relay for a USB power outlet. You can only get 1 - 2 amps or so out of those, depending on the model you pick, which any reasonable automotive switch should be able to handle. I recently added a dual USB jack (see link below) to my C50 to power/charge my phone while it's in nav mode. I was already running a relay-isolated power line for my running lights (re-wiring the PO's mess) at the same time, and decided to just tap into that line for the USB port, since it's not that much more power.

BurnsMoto - Motorcycle, ATV, Boat, RV, Snowmobile - USB Weatherproof Power Socket - Dual Port USB Charger with SAE or Bare Wire

Also, you're also right about making sure those are on ignition-switched circuits. Even if you don't have anything plugged into the USB outlet, most of them will still be pulling a little power, and will definately drain your battery unless it's switched off. I got that for "free" since I tapped off the running light's power, and that relay is switched on/off by the ignition.

-RenHoek

PS: Gene - photo editing was done with a little copy/pasting/clone-brushing in Paint.net. Thanks for the nice & clean diagram in the 1st place!
Paint.NET - Free Software for Digital Photo Editing
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You're probably right about the USB power. Other than that do you see any issues with what I'm proposing?

Thanks VERY much
 

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You're probably right about the USB power. Other than that do you see any issues with what I'm proposing?

Thanks VERY much
Here is what should work for you with 4 circuits and the power source for the relay switches. It is almost the same as what RonHoek had in his drawing - does the same but added circuits.

If you are using a power pod or cig lighter to hold the USB adapter - where someone might plug in a higher draw accessory, I would still use the relay.

The Bosch style relays are a bit of overkill and large for the space on the bike so you might look for some mini-relays that will work just as well.

The switch housing can be made from a small project box that is available from Radio Shack or electronics supply.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Nice drawing -That's what I was trying to explain except I will probably tap into the switched circuit in the headlight bucket with switches to trigger the relays. Its just closer to the switches.

It's already 90% done and I had some last minute doubts so I posted here to make sure I wasn't going to fry everything. Next time I'll make a drawing from the beginning because it is sometimes it's difficult to explain this type of thing in text.
You're probably right about the bosch style relays, but that's part of the 90% that's already done. :) I have a fuse box and 4 relays in the tool box already. It may be overkill but I'm ok with that.

THANK YOU for the assistance. I'll add a pic or two when I finish.
 
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