I changed my axle fluid at 2000 miles and it had the normal shiny streaks of metal. Used synthetic 80-90. Changed again around 12,000 miles and it looked black. I will now change it @ every oil change.
They don't hold much, might as well go with synthetic 80-90. No cooling fins on the chunk. Mine runs a little hot, but I run interstate about 2/3 of the time.
Don't forget to grease the inside too including splines.
I've had my 04 Volusia for a month (11, 000km), and I went to the dealer to get diff gear oil. They sold me Bel-ray 80-w90 gear oil. According to them it must say the words "hypoid" and be GL5 compatIble. Mine was the original gear oil. It was an amber colour with dark gray dirty streaks when it poured out. After the change out it does seam to run noticeably cooler. I bought a full liter and it only takes about 200ml to fill so I'll be changing it often.
So did my first oil change on my bike and it had a K&N filter, pre-stripped I suppose from either the guy wrenching on it to tighten it, or someones attempt to remove it. I had a little bite but could tell it was 'slipping' so tried my best to keep it from going the rest of the way but omg this...
My 2015 C50 with approx 4000 miles - so far most of it city miles. During those city miles I observed no oil consumption.
But now I'm living in the country side, close to the mountains with very nice scenery roads available.
I did some touring over the last few days. Took my C50 out of...
has anyone on here ever used flex-hone on his C50 engine?
The flex hone is supposed to reinstall the honing scratches - but not to remove material.
Apparently it is quiet common in the dirt bike world.
Maybe something to consider when the engine starts to use oil, or maybe even earlier...
Time to change the oil on my '09 C50. Everything is ready and on hand except a crush washer.
Size: 12mm (M12), right?
Is it necessary, or best, to use the cone-shaped OEM crush washer, Or will any M12 / 12mm flat crush washer, aluminum or copper do?