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Discussion Starter #1
Hi there!

Recently purchased 08 Suzuki blvd M50 bike and I love it!

For now I am trying to figure out why it has issues starting cold, is there an Idle Air Control valve somewhere that doesn't work?
I do not have a copy of manual, download link in this forum doesn't work ...

My M50 does not rise RPM when started cold, I need to hold it for 15-30 secs at a little higher revs and then put it into first gear to stabilize it ... it usually idles perfectly fine after that.

Is there anything I could check myself before letting a shop look into it and charge me an arm and leg?

Thanks >:)
 

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The idle air control is on the left side of the engine behind a little decorative cover. It's just a plunger that a servo can move in and out to open/close a valve, respectively. Sometimes they get stuck. There's two bolts that hold the servo in, when I removed it on mine the bolts were VERY tight and Suzuki makes all their fasteners out of cheese, so very easy to strip. Ensure the plunger moves freely and spray some carb cleaner in there to remove any gunk. With the servo out, turn the key on with kill switch on, then turn it off. The plunger should suck out (open) for cold starting. When you turn the key off it should release (closed).

It's just an air valve that allows more air to bypass the throttle blades, effectively giving the bike more throttle. Older EFI bikes with a "choke" lever did this, it just was a little cam that propped the throttle open slightly more than usual.

I'm referencing a 2005 model, but to my knowledge these things did not change too much over the years.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The idle air control is on the left side of the engine behind a little decorative cover. It's just a plunger that a servo can move in and out to open/close a valve, respectively. Sometimes they get stuck. There's two bolts that hold the servo in, when I removed it on mine the bolts were VERY tight and Suzuki makes all their fasteners out of cheese, so very easy to strip. Ensure the plunger moves freely and spray some carb cleaner in there to remove any gunk. With the servo out, turn the key on with kill switch on, then turn it off. The plunger should suck out (open) for cold starting. When you turn the key off it should release (closed).

It's just an air valve that allows more air to bypass the throttle blades, effectively giving the bike more throttle. Older EFI bikes with a "choke" lever did this, it just was a little cam that propped the throttle open slightly more than usual.

I'm referencing a 2005 model, but to my knowledge these things did not change too much over the years.
Thanks RWhitehosue for explaining what I should look for on the bike!
Will try that over weekend with carb cleaner. Should I get replacement bolts ahead of time? Where from best? Did yours strip?

Also, I already need to get bolts of 2 kinds. I'm missing 1 of 3 that hold the chrome shroud on top of gas tank ... and 1 more somewhere else, so intending to ask a dealer locally. Are there other ways?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ace Hardware
right, that's an option too :grin2:
I will stick to online dealer store for now to get missing bolts, I simply want them to be same as others and I am not replacing them all, just filling the blanks I noticed.
Found some dealer sites with diagrams, so I can find out what I need exactly, not cheap tho ...
 

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Partzilla has the cheapest parts I found. I lost one of those bolts too. Replaced them with hex head ones with a washer from the hardware store. I actually like the look better so I kept them like that.
 

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right, that's an option too :grin2:
I will stick to online dealer store for now to get missing bolts, I simply want them to be same as others and I am not replacing them all, just filling the blanks I noticed.
Found some dealer sites with diagrams, so I can find out what I need exactly, not cheap tho ...
I think they probably have what you need for pennies on the dollar over what you're going to pay online.
 

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just take the mc down to an ace hardware store...find out what you need by actually trying them out in the areas you need to make sure they fit...that's what I do...I leave the guy my credit card or a $10 bill and I start my searching...now he just tells me...do what you need to do..pay me when your done. Also a good selection in stainless steel.
 

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They have chrome bolts? My local big box hardware store only has stainless, zinc plated, or galvanized. I should start going to Ace.
Not all Ace Hardware stores carry them. Mine doesn't.

On My M50 that screw is a wide button socket head screw with a shoulder, similar to the attached photo. Pretty specialized. If your Ace carries this, fantastic!
 

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I don't believe that the shoulder is a requirement. A
The holes on the chrome cover are oversize - much larger diameter than the screw threads. The shoulder is larger diameter and fits the larger hole. You would not get a good fit with just a standard screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
The idle air control is on the left side of the engine behind a little decorative cover. It's just a plunger that a servo can move in and out to open/close a valve, respectively. Sometimes they get stuck. There's two bolts that hold the servo in, when I removed it on mine the bolts were VERY tight and Suzuki makes all their fasteners out of cheese, so very easy to strip. Ensure the plunger moves freely and spray some carb cleaner in there to remove any gunk. With the servo out, turn the key on with kill switch on, then turn it off. The plunger should suck out (open) for cold starting. When you turn the key off it should release (closed).

It's just an air valve that allows more air to bypass the throttle blades, effectively giving the bike more throttle. Older EFI bikes with a "choke" lever did this, it just was a little cam that propped the throttle open slightly more than usual.

I'm referencing a 2005 model, but to my knowledge these things did not change too much over the years.
Took me a while to check some things out, but not quite everything yet.
Was able to remove the servo, but when I test it with key on and flipping the cut off switch on off does nothing, it never moves. Also for now I don't know where the other end of electrical connector is (somewhere under gas tank, I know), but not sure if I can reach it to unplug easily or not.

I tried moving the metal shaft (what the plunger pushes I think) with fingers, it has some free play, but doesn't move much at all? It all looked very clean by the way.

Even tried ordering a new second air valve assembly, but guess what, every Suzuki parts online dealer (including partzilla and revzilla) in US is out of stock ? ... may say available, but once you purchase it will get backordered with unknown ETA, fantastic.
EDIT: Just checked ebay and found a shop parting out bikes, grabbed a repalcement valve with servo for $10 shipped, will swap and test once I get it.

Otherwise I guess at this point I should just remove the whole valve assembly and take it apart completely, clean with carb cleaner and put back in.
OK great, sounds like a plan, but what if servo-motor is dead? Need to check it again on completely cold bike to make sure... I think the root cause of problem here is that servo not doing its job at all ... I literally heard my bike only once since I got it in early July, when it was trying to rev up on its own when started cold and never did it again LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #17
damn, swapped the whole Second Air valve with a shiny looking replacement (part out), zero difference, still shuts off instantly when started cold unless I roll on the throttle a bit and hold it there for a minute ... which brings me to conclusion that something else affects actuating that servo-motor within the valve ... I guess I will be checking ECT sensor next time.

I might also try running seafoam through gas tank to cleanup fuel injectors while at it and hope it improves anything.

Annoying issue to get this bike running from cold start, especially in colder weather...
 

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Sounds like a throttle lock cruise control would be your easiest fix. It would serve double duty plus you need one to enhance your riding experience. It makes it easier to text and ride as well. No need to tie up your right hand while blasting down the highway at Mach 4.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Sounds like a throttle lock cruise control would be your easiest fix. It would serve double duty plus you need one to enhance your riding experience. It makes it easier to text and ride as well. No need to tie up your right hand while blasting down the highway at Mach 4.
that would be a workaround, but still a cool one hehe

I'd like to fix the root cause if possible ... but from the lack of other ideas will try seafom additive in fuel, check plugs when I have chance and check the coolant temp sensor resistance while at it ... perhaps it provides wrong temperature input to computer so the fast idle never gets engaged, because it "thinks" it is always warmed up even when cold as stone? ... may take me a while to pull up the tank as I have never attempted it yet and check that stuff one day LOL

I heard those bikes also have a secondary Throttle Position sensor too used by the automatic fast idle (which doesn't work for me at all)?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
found the problem, well .. not exactly, but I think it's in the gas tank (moisture in fuel) or fuel system dirty
The other day when I was around 40 miles north of city experienced issues re-starting the warm bike and idle was really low and stuttering, so stopped by local Autozone and picked up the can of Seafoam, dumped it into a half full gas tank, problem solved.

Refueled the tank after coming back home, next time I started the bike in morning at 7:30am, it properly did a quick fast idle sequence and stayed idling on its own for the whole duration while in Neutral, I never had to touch the throttle.
Did it stay perfect forever? No, few days later it happened again, not sure yet if permanently, but I know now what it is related to.

I am thinking, I may need to run seafom or some other fuel stabilizer with gentle cleaning agents a few more times to clean out whatever the residual issue might be, it's probably either moisture/water in gas tank or dirty injectors, etc.

still haven't gotten around to checking spark plugs yet LOL ... was looking for a gas tank prop, finally found something that should do... but no time to touch it yet ...
 
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