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Discussion Starter #1
Hey good people!
I have an 06 C50 Boulevard I bought this last spring. Running parts are stock I'm pretty sure, except V&H pipes, and a Cobra fi2000 tuner installed.

It had high miles, almost 50k, so I got a good deal. Thing is it chewed up a lot more oil faster than I was aware, and started knocking. I found someone parting out an 05, and in addition to a few other small things I got a 17k mi engine from him for a great deal.
A local shop (Yamaha - they and Kawi are all that are in town, small ok shops) swapped them out for me.

It wasn't long before I started noticing idle problems. I've been trying to troubleshoot it with no luck, and the shop that did it is effectively clueless at this point, giving up once determining that the non-Yama fuel injection bike is running some rich.
When I got the bike it ran 45-46mpg (which I hear is a tad lower than other reports). Now it gets 40-41.

Starting is odd. The first start is fine... But the idle quickly falls and the bike dies. It APPEARS the automatic choke isn't working, but one theory I have is that it is working, but running rich means the extra fuel could be smothering combustion. Plausible?

After the first start and stall, it won't start back without turning the throttle. It has an uneven rev for some time until I've forced it to warm up some. While doing this, the bike shoots out plumes of black smoke (soot is deposited on the fender and rear tail light from this and general riding) Even after warming it, the bike may not sustain an idle.
Sometimes when coming to a stop even after riding a while, the idle drops and dies after 5-10 seconds.

After learning the tuner has adjustable dials, I cracked it open to check them out... But the main one to tweak for this problem seems to be stripped from what it tunes and just keeps turning and turning loosely instead of only going from 0-10!

So I have taken the tuner off.
I read that this tuner only adds gas, doesn't subtract, so that maybe it's adding too much for this different motor (for some reason?) and running far too rich. I'm waiting for the weather to allow a bundled-up test drive without the tuner to see how it does - but I'm somewhat concerned that, if it isn't running so rich and/or the tuner isn't much related to the problem, that having the V&H pipes could cause me to run lean in a bad way.

So, before I take any more steps, I have decided to reach out for some expertise advice!... because I can't seem to find any in-person.
Thanks to anyone who can respond!
 

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Pull the air filter cover, and check for a rodent nest possibly blocking the air intake.
 

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If you used the donor engine's injectors and throttle body swap them out to the originals.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks for the replies!

I checked around the air filter when I was first looking for vacuum leaks etc.

I, and the shop, hunted around for vacuum leaks. That's what I was nearly positive the problem was when I was first trying to solve it. I took it back in and they (for no charge since it was after their work doing the swap) supposedly looked for a leak and found nothing. Now, doubting their complete competence, I am wondering if there might be one hiding somewhere and will look for one. But until I check more thoroughly, I'm figuring that their search would have been just as conclusive as mine may be.

I'm pretty positive I got the engine only - no fuel injection or throttle body (although I am not familiar with throttle bodies, much less on this bike specifically) so everything except the engine should be from my original bike.
 

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If you used the original throttle body I would recommend a good cleaning. Take some long Q tip swabs and carb cleaner and clean the throttle bodies well. Dirty ones can cause both the problems you describe.
 

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The dials will spin on the fi2000r. They are just rheostats and will do it. Factory settings out of the box at 3.5, 5, 3.5 and that is for stock intake with free flowing pipes. I'd get it back on one you find the issue. Make sure the throttle body is securely seated in the riser tubes, mine tool some work after adjusting the valves and that finny dial clamp n. eeds to be tight. Check all connections, the 2 vacuum sensors on the intake tube the plugs are idental and can be reversed but looking at the wiring diagram the are in parallel to each other so nothing swapping would cure. If the motor that came out has no service history I'd be checking the valves, and while in there look down the intakes since you have to pull the TB to check valves, to see if the valves are clean or dirty or if something is stuck in there. I have a thread on the motors section about my adjustment ordeal, lots of pics to help out. Once you pop the covers off you can see the cams as well, and see if any serious scoring is on the CMS signaling lack of maintance. Other things why was the motor out at 17k, wreck? Is the timing good?, plugs new?, cables and linkages not hitting and adjusted correctly? I'd just start checking everything from top to bottom, could be as easy as a bad sensor or a misses plug connector. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here's a helpful discovery!
The smoke seems to be coming from only the BACK cylinder! The top pipe emits a significant amount of smoke each turn. The bottom pipe looks much more clean by comparison.
I bet this reveals a lot; does it?

I did remove the back cylinder's plug wire. When I tried to run the bike, it wouldn't stay on, so the plug is working at least enough to keep it running, but I think it's time to replace the plugs to be sure.
What could be causing smoke from the back cylinder only?


I've been fiddling with it. To my newbie yet somewhat mechanically inclined eyes, the throttle body looks good. Nothing much to clean at all. Everything I find seems to be connected nicely also.

On a spontaneous inclination I sprayed the throttle mechanism near the body with some pb blaster and jerked the throttle around some to wiggle it. I think I noticed a difference in smoothness... Which surprised me, but when I started the bike up next, the idle SHOT UP! I thought something new had changed, but first I went for the idle adjustment screw... For the first time in who knows how long, I actually got a response from adjusting it. I found a spot for it where the idle stayed around 990-1100. The idle hasn't died on me again yet!, but it won't exactly stay nice and stable like it used to. My problems aren't ALL solved.


The 'new' 17k mi motor (now closer to 20k as I've been riding on it) was from a bike parted out because the owner bought it just for the frame an a select few parts - someone bumped his 6k mi bike and messed up its frame. I got the engine, wheels, brakes and differential super cheap because he just wanted some of his cash back.
 

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Dirty throttle body............clean it much better than just a shot or two of PB Blaster.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The pb was for the throttle itself on the side of the body, where the cable wraps around the wheel and all that. I didn't clean the inside with pb. The inside looks pretty clean as it is. I might have a go at it anyway but I'm thinking I need to change the plugs.

Also found out that the shop failed to adjust the valves before they installed the engine, which I definitely told them to do. Ugh. So maybe that has to do with it as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Getting new plugs put in. Would have done it myself (after getting a thin-walled 18mm deep socket, mine doesn't get down in there) but I took this as an opportunity to have the shop tune my valves. I'm not going to pay them for THAT, since they were supposed to do it while the engine was still out, but had to pay them to do Something at least to have them working on it already in order to do so. At least without being a **** about it.

I'm pretty unhappy with these guys' diagnosing capability.

If new plugs and adjusted valves doesn't take care of my issue, I don't know what will.
Maybe these things will stop it from chewing on oil to, and having the oil turn black, supposedly with incompletely burnt fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There we go. New plugs and a valve adjustment did it for me nicely!

However it seems like I'm still going thru oil, a LOT.
Haven't started keeping track til now, but so far I'm guessing a liter every 500-750 miles. That seems like a lot.

What causes this? How can I deal with it?
 

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speeds over 75 80 has made both my c50 and bro c50t use oil like that slow down a bit and they don't use any go fig
 

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There we go. New plugs and a valve adjustment did it for me nicely!

However it seems like I'm still going thru oil, a LOT.
Haven't started keeping track til now, but so far I'm guessing a liter every 500-750 miles. That seems like a lot.

What causes this? How can I deal with it?
It's called blow by. It's not unusual on these bikes with high mileage when cruising highway speed. Think of it as changing your oil often by adding frequently. Check your oil sight glass often while riding often and the bike should be ok. Oil starvation ( lack of oil or even low oil volume) will certainly kill the internal engine components rather quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Yeah that's what happened to the first engine...

This engine has only 20k miles on it, where the rest of the bike is at 52k+.
I don't suppose 20k on the engine counts as high mileage, but does having 52k on the trans etc. contribute to that oil chewing effect?

I'd like to find what would be possible to eliminate the loss. It concerns me, and isn't exactly cheap.

I'll try keeping below 70 (~5000RPM) when I can, but when I ride on the interstate which I must do somewhat regularly, it's hard to.
 

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Check the carb housing to see if you got it on right if you don't have it on the bike will start and die if you don't have carb push on right it will suck air take the carb off and look at hem and the boot it goes in .when I put mine in one side was up higher than the other side and clean the pair lines and un plug the pair and clean it in side out and put new plugs in when plugs get old the don't work right even if they still start up the bike and if your air filter is dirty clean it are replace it I had a K&N one and it work great I was all so getting black smoke clean the throttle body and the pair lines and the hole pair system to there are read vales in then and they get a lot of junk on them they don't work you can try to clean them but if you do be very careful with them and watch the way they come out are you can get a different pair system on line I bought a good used on and every one think it the pair that make sit pop if you had a will timed bike it would not pop look at these guy that race pro do you here pop from them no you don't check the timing some people advance it and some people retard it so check it to hope this help so don't let all these people tell you to plug up the pair and check the in side of the pipes to see if you got a lot of **** in the spiders like to get in them and make there nest hope this held and stock pipes are not bad I have stock one on mine bike and it just as loud as after markets ones and you might need to put the old pipes back on that's what I wrong with people now days they try to keep up with the jones and I found out not all after market stuff is not all that it might look cool but the bike runs like ****
 

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Almost five years since the previous entry was posted.
Not likely that anyone would need an assist with a nearly five year past issue.
 
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