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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-21-2018 08:11 PM
Malicman I own a 2008 C50T, shaft failed at the wheel end of the shaft as the splines simply wore off over time I suspect and had complete failure suddenly at 28000 miles which is really bad as most shaft driven bikes have no issues until at least 80k miles and even then the u-joint would go long before the shaft. Problem is indeed the lack of lubricant, I repaired it myself and the parts cost just over $320 Canadian. I have enjoyed this bike since I bought it in early 2010, but now will be looking for another Goldwing. Great bike otherwise, and for the mechanic, I have read a lot of forums citing this problem and it is fairly common, not so rare as you said.
09-21-2017 10:01 AM
Psyc0 I'd replace the entire rear drive & driveshaft with an upgrade drive unit & shaft, lube it well with a moly paste formulation, prior to installation.
Consider the difference between the current final ratio, 3:63-1, versus 3:02-1, which causes the machine to feel as though it has attained 6th gear.
There's almost always someone selling upgrade rear drives in the SWAP MEET section of this forum.

If the cost of an upgrade drive eludes You, look for a standard VL800 drive, either here, or on ebay.
09-20-2017 12:28 PM
Ron Brown My 2005 M50 has the same problem with spines worn out and dry. where do you suggest getting the repair parts.
Ron
08-28-2017 05:02 PM
scorpion46 Yep, moly-lube. It's about $13 a tube but alot less than replaceing a driveshaft. Don't skimp on it and replace the grease seal everytime you grease it ( atleast each year).
08-28-2017 11:43 AM
henry postma What Mallard said.

Henry
08-27-2017 08:34 PM
POPA-G try a dry lube like Teflon spray it don't attract dirt like greese..werth a try.
08-17-2017 04:42 PM
mallard Honda moly 60Attachment 112865


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08-17-2017 03:34 PM
BigDen My 2011 vl800 is in the shop with spines all chewed up. Mech. Says he has never seen this before. Is there a special Greece that needs to be used?
09-04-2016 07:10 PM
alex_at Is greasing the ultimate solution - or is the missing grease not the main cause at all?

I recently did some research on a 2002-2006 Rang Rover III (L322). Interestingly, I found out that this particular Range Rover seems from 2002 to 2005 has serious issues with the shaft drive, particularly on the front end side coming out of the differential.

These 2 links might be interesting:
Front Differential Failure (Range Rover Mk III)
Front Differential Recall (Range Rover Mk III)

The first link shows the old setup that's known to cause issues. Now, to me it looks very similar to the setup our C50 uses on the rear end of the shaft drive. The thing in common is the kind of fixed, non flexible coupling at the rear end of our driveshafts. (Front end of the Range Rover III)

This leads me to think that the missing grease isn't the main cause of the driveshaft problem, it might contribute to an slightly earlier failure, but possibly it's not the main issue. Unfortunately that would also mean that greasing isn't the ultimate solution....

I'm not a mechanic or engineer, but the C50 driveshaft just came to my mind whilst researching on the Range Rover and the common driveshaft issue found on the Range Rover reminded me on the failures of some of the C50 driveshaft failures.

Another driveshaft motorcycle comes to my mind, the BMW GS series - everyone of those I have seen appear to have an flexible rear end coupling - unlike our C50's.

The Range Rover article also mentions misalignment - I think about suspension settings on our C50. The rear shock comes set on factory setting 4, the range is 1 to 7. I want my suspension softer than on setting 4 since I get some heavy shocks in my back when driving over potholes. Now my thinking was that possibly setting 1 (softest) in comparison to setting 7 (hardest) would allow much more up and down movement of the driveshaft and therefore more or less wear - If I think correctly.

edit: I think I'm on the wrong train with the suspension setting, since the rear end of the shaft is attached to the wheel - so more up and down movement would only affect the engine side connection...


What do you think?
08-15-2016 09:02 PM
chairman Hi all from down under
I have a 93 vs 1400 with 85,000 km. Great bike but blew a umi joint a couple of weeks ago. In tech speak a catastrophic failure. Bits of uni everywhere. found the drive shaft inspection plate cover back up the highway. Splines reasonably well lubed although grease looked very old. I put it down to " things that go bump in the night" . Anyone else got any ideas.

Have a new OEM uni coming from Megazip Japan so will be all good again soon.
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