|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-10-2018 05:38 AM|
"That is the way I made all mine.
I do have all the parts to assemble one if anyone would like one."
That sounds like me! Can we discuss this off line?
|07-09-2018 08:42 PM|
Originally Posted by Beefcrtns View Post
Not only do you need to worry about the splines end hitting the u-joint one should be concerned of the preload on the shaft spring. You should not just machine the shoulder back 3/16 of an inch so you have a bit of shoulder left. Although this works but do you really want to be doing 70mph and not have the preload and deflection clearences (when the swingarm swings) that suzuki intended?
To get the proper preload the splined end of the shaft needs to be welded and machined back almost 3/8 of an inch.
That is the way I made all mine.
I do have all the parts to assemble one if anyone would like one.
Sent from my SM-T900 using Tapatalk
|05-24-2018 11:52 PM|
|Beefcrtns||I have a 07 C50 with the wire spoked wheels. If I purchase the axle spacer for a VS1400, will I still need to shave it down?|
|01-16-2017 10:27 PM|
You can rev it up some more. Some people talk about shifting from 1st to 2nd when turning. I didn't do that. I let the revs go up a little more and shifted to 2nd after the turn. After the modified drive, the shift to 2nd definitely doesn't feel needed until after a turn.
With there only being 5 gears, that means you will be turning a lot of RPMs at high speeds (70mph+). You can run the RPMs up without a problem in lower gears too, it will just sound different to your ears as compared to the low growl you are used to but you will get used to the sounds you normally create with the engine - no matter what that is.
|01-16-2017 03:03 PM|
Originally Posted by guitarjim View Post
|01-16-2017 12:06 AM|
Yes, measurements were done. Yes, there was some that ran the splines deeper into the joint but decided that wasn't a good solution. I think I remember one person having some serious problems with the splines in too deep. My guess is the measurements were made from comparing existing parts in the shop. From what I have read, the first person, DJ, to make the mod had a good reputation for working on motorcycles. I don't know if DJ put the shafts into the joint to visually inspect the connection but it wouldn't surprise me if he did - I just don't remember reading about it. Someone else may be able to answer better.
For the most, 99.9% of the people doing this modification really like it. I know I like it. It was easy to do and made a big difference in high speed (for the c50) riding.
|01-15-2017 03:08 PM|
As a journeyman Machinist....
My very first thought was the removal of that much of the splines on the end of the driveshaft. It is a rare thing that more than what is needed is used in a mechanical application, and it is always built to a strength factor x % over max stress ratio. Since you mention that some have done this without the shortening of the driveshaft, has anyone ever done an exact measurement from the 1400 rear end face to the max safe length into the U joint splines, and the face of the U Joint? That would seem like the first thing that you would do on a mod like this.
Am I correct in assuming that the shoulder MUST be machined back in order for the VL800/C50 shaft to fit between the 1400 unit and the U joint? Or is that not tampered with either when the mod is done without machining? (That wasn't real clear) I can see that there very well could be enough room into the U joint for the shaft to extend without binding on the rear portion of the joint. But I am guessing that from the mounted face of the 1400/1500 unit and the face of the U joint it must be shortened or it will bind ?
As I am also a lifetime certified all position welder in TIG, MIG, stick, gas, and sub-arc. Cutting and welding a spec tempered driveshaft would be my last choice, and definitely a jig welding application.
I am not trying to stir up anything here, but this seems to leave a lot of questions open as to if the basic measurements were even done.
|11-09-2016 05:19 PM|
|Psyc0||The Rusk's tutorial appears to be offline, possibly due to hosting charges.|
|11-08-2016 03:28 PM|
Sorry if that has been asked before but have put this in the search and have looked through the results her in the VR site and can not seem to find this and was wondering if someone could point me in the right direction please. Thank You
Secure the bike to the stand and proceed to remove the drive assembly using the Rusks’ “Checking Driveshaft Lubrication”guide found on the VR site.
|09-24-2016 03:45 PM|
So I had a pro bike fabricator extend the 1400 shaft. Did a great job. I put in 11cm but should have been 11.1 to make it 'perfect.' Shortened the head by 5/16. The axle bushing cut to 2 13/16 and was a perfect length. Cost me $95 to have the fab done.
Totally different bike. Wow! Easy riding in 3 around 40 mph and don't shift to 5th til well over 60. Easy cruising over 70.
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