Good Aftermarket CDI for a 2007 VS1400?? - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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Good Aftermarket CDI for a 2007 VS1400??

The other afternoon my VS1400 simply would not start after sitting for about three hours. The engine by then was at ambient air temp so vapor lock was not an issue. Over the past three months I had taken it on an 8,500 mi trip around the Southwest with no problems and that day it had done about 10 short trips around town in 88F weather.

The cylinders cranked when I engaged the ignition and I could smell the fuel so fuel flow seemed OK.

Next I pulled a plug, put the plug connector back on and engaged the starter. There was no spark at all so the issue was electronic.

I towed it to a Suzuki shop to take a look at it and, after two days, was told “It’s probably the CDI” [capacitor discharge ignition also called the $893 igniter assembly 32900-38B50 in the OEM electric parts list]. Naturally, “It’s probably” is not very comforting for an $893 part plus labor. #9 on this list,

Has anyone found a good aftermarket part for the igniter assembly 32900-38B50 (CDI)?

Guidance at Rick’s is that the only real way to test a CDI before replacing it is to swap a working one with a questionable one to see if it works — in you have a 2006-2008 VS1400 friend.

2007 Boulevard S83
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-18-2019, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
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The VS1400 years 1996-2008 use the same $900 igniter assembly (OEM Igniter Assembly part #32900-38B50) instead of a capacitor discharge ignition (CDI).

A good aftermarket igniter box for those years is the $228 Dynatek 3000 Series Ignition D3K32.

The only real way to test your CDI or igniter box is to swap it out with a working one of the same year/make/model. However other electrical components should be tested first as one of them is more likely to be the problem.

The Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) or Igniter System
Black box, brain box, pulse pack, igniter box, CDI module, power pack, whatever you want to call it: if your motorcycle is newer than 1980, it probably has a black rectangle spouting wires under the seat that makes the magic happen. For the VS1400 the OEM part is the Igniter Assembly part #32900-38B50 for years 1996-2008.

What is CDI? What does a CDI box do?

What Does a CDI Box Do?

What Does an Ignition Coil Do?

What Are the Signs of a Failing Ignition Coil?

The fully transistorized ignition system consists of a signal generator, ignitor, ignition coil and spark plug.
• The signal generator comprises one rotor tip and two pick - up coils .
• The signal generator coil is mounted on the generator cover.
• The output of the signal generator goes to the ignitor unit where it turns the transistor ON and OFF alternately.
• As the transistor in the ignitor unit is turned ON OFF, the current passing through the primary windings of the ignition coil is also turned ON and OFF accordingly. This induces the secondary current in the ignition coil secondary windings and produces the spark between spark plug gap.

2007 Boulevard S83

Last edited by cyberbiker6; 07-19-2019 at 11:20 PM.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 07-22-2019, 04:59 PM
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CDI should be the absolutely last thing on the list of things to check. As said there's really no way to test it, the shop manuals only say "replace with known good". Thing is, failures are pretty rare. The couple times I've run into CDI problems it was usually an inconsistent/intermittent problem, usually heat related. Either from radiant from the engine, or internal just from use and it'd start acting up with misfires or no-starts until it cooled off. Not saying it just up-and-died one day is impossible, but I'd definitely want to rule everything else out first.

Trigger coils? These are easy to test with an ohmmeter.
Ignition coils, again easy to test primary/secondary resistance with an ohmmeter.
Electrical connections? Power to coils? Loose connector, damaged wire somewhere?

I'd also be quizzing the shop that says "probably the CDI" if they checked the above and how the arrived at the conclusion they have to sell you a $900 part on a "probably".

And even if the CDI is knackered, I would not be buying one for $900 clams from Suzuki. I'm sure you can find one on ebay for a tiny fraction of that from cycle breakers- nice thing is you have a wide span of years that will work, so finding one from a "running when wrecked" bike should not be difficult. Or the Dynatek option above, if having ignition tuning is of any interest to you. Of course the dealer will refuse either of these options, new OEM is the only thing they will do.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 08-01-2019, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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A week ago, the repair shop gave me back the bike and said the 25A MAIN fuse (protects regulator/rectifier, decomp solenoid, tail light, licence light, turn signal light and turn signal indicator) had blown and that causes Intruders not to run.”The only motorcycle model in the universe like that” He also said they checked the coils and CDI and they were fine. They charged me for 2 hours work and I drive it away.

Four miles later on a freeway at 70mph it dropped to reduced power as if the spark in one cylinder had died. Then the engine completely died as I downshifted on an exit. Upon checking all the fuses. This tome I found the 10A SIGNAL fuse (protects position light, brake light, neutral indicator light, oil pressure indicator light and horn) had blown. The 25A Main fuse was fine.

I towed it back telling them the 10A SIGNAL fuse could be a symptom, not the cause. That just drew blank stares. It seems this dealer’s service shop is better at plugging modern bikes into computers than investigating ignition system problems in older bikes. They’ve had it now for a week with no feedback so I guess I’ll just pick it up and try to find a more knowledgeable electronics person.

Has any VS1400 owner heard of a bad 10A SIGNAL fuse preventing the ignition spark? It does seem the 25A MAIN fuse would prevent ignition.

A friend who works on cars says it could be a carburetor problem and wondered if Intruder carbs occasionally need to be rebuilt it the first 100,000 miles. Though my two previous Intruders have gone over 100K miles without carb problems, but I thought I’d ask.

Has anyone experienced the need to rebuild carbs? If so, after how many miles?

Here are the five fuses in the 2007 VS1400 fuse box from left to right:

• 10A HEAD fuse protects the headlight, high beam indicator light and speedometer.
• 10A SIGNAL fuse protects position light, brake light, neutral indicator light, oil pressure indicator light and horn.
• 10A IGNITION fuse protects the ignition system, side stand relay and fuel pump.
• 25A MAIN fuse protects regulator/rectifier, decomp solenoid, taillight, licence light, turn signal light and turn signal indicator.
• 10A POWER SOURCE fuse protects the electrical accessories connected to out put terminal.

2007 Boulevard S83
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