C90 final drive plug thread repair? - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #1 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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C90 final drive plug thread repair?

Howdy folks! I know, it's my first post, and I know, it's asking for help. I've been lurking for a little bit and just trying to learn, but now I've learned that some ahole jacked up the drain plug on the final drive. I went to change the final drive oil and the plug felt "welded" in place, after some gentle coaxing I found out why, there was no plug gasket on it, and whoever put it in last time added some loc-tite to it. I also found out WHY they added loc-tite to it when I looked at the drain plug and saw metal embedded in the threads. Seems that the final drive drain hole's threads are mostly stripped out and now I'm left holding the bag.



Is there an easy fix for this? I figured a helicoil would do the trick, but the M14x1.25 set I got has a thread chaser that leads the tap down into the drain hole, but it seems like it would go to deep. Should I remove the final drive from the bike, or is there an easy way to get the part with the drain hole off so I can re-thread and install the heli-coil? I was looking around and there are not a lot of C90 final drive hits on google to help me out in how to get the darn thing off so I can do that...



I'm stuck, and I'm sad.
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post #2 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 05:07 PM Thread Starter
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Forgot to mention, it's a 2007 C90.
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post #3 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 05:34 PM
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Got a pic?

Personally I'd probably remove the drive then repair it. I'd also probably kick it up to the next NPT size as long as there is enough material (that's why I asked for the pic) and skip the helicoil (I've never been a fan of helicoils).

After you remove the rear tire, you then remove the swing arm bracket and 3 screws that hold the drive on. Then it slides right out.

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post #4 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Got a pic?

Personally I'd probably remove the drive then repair it. I'd also probably kick it up to the next NPT size as long as there is enough material (that's why I asked for the pic) and skip the helicoil (I've never been a fan of helicoils).

After you remove the rear tire, you then remove the swing arm bracket and 3 screws that hold the drive on. Then it slides right out.

Gonna be a little dense so bear with me. What do you want a pic of, the internal threads for the drain itself? That might be a tough one to get, but I can give it a shot. There's enough material that I can put the plug back in and it stays in place, but it never gets snugged to a stopping point, it will just reset itself each time. Know what I mean?



So remove the rear tire, pop off the three bolts on the drive shaft itself near the housing. Does the housing itself just come apart so I can re-tap it?
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post #5 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 06:18 PM
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It slides out with the driveshaft as a whole unit. Look at the bottom left one.



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post #6 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 08:09 PM
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If you want to stay with a helicoil type insert, I highly recommend Keenserts over a helicoil.

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post #7 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 08:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Capt Cruiser View Post
It slides out with the driveshaft as a whole unit. Look at the bottom left one.



Yea but from what I've seen of the other side, it's still got a mess of stuff inside of it that needs to come out, otherwise I feel like the taper die will bottom out and not cut the new threads.


Also I don't really care about helicoil or otherwise, the application doesn't matter to me, I just want to do the safest fix possible. If you think moving up to an M16x1.25 is the better idea, I'm open to it.
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post #8 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-27-2019, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by elricfate View Post
Yea but from what I've seen of the other side, it's still got a mess of stuff inside of it that needs to come out, otherwise I feel like the taper die will bottom out and not cut the new threads.


Also I don't really care about helicoil or otherwise, the application doesn't matter to me, I just want to do the safest fix possible. If you think moving up to an M16x1.25 is the better idea, I'm open to it.
The original helicoil kits required that the old threads be drilled out so that the hole was oversized and then the tap was used.

From your description, you have a self tapping ‘reamer tap’ that does the ‘drilling for you. In that case the nose of the oversized tap has to go through the hole by a substantial amount and the ring gear of the final drive is in the way.

To do the job correctly you need to disassemble the drive, install the helicoil and then reassemble it exactly as it was before.


A machine shop might be able to set up to do the install and then flush any drilling chips from the inside of the drive. But expensive.

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post #9 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 04:43 AM
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You can also get a self tapping oversize oil plug so you don't have to run a tap at all. Look them up.

I would keep the drive vertical, (maybe even leave it on the bike on a jack for more room), install the self tapping plug, then go in with a Q-tip and remove any chips from the self tapping.


.

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post #10 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-28-2019, 07:14 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Gene View Post
The original helicoil kits required that the old threads be drilled out so that the hole was oversized and then the tap was used.

From your description, you have a self tapping ‘reamer tap’ that does the ‘drilling for you. In that case the nose of the oversized tap has to go through the hole by a substantial amount and the ring gear of the final drive is in the way.

To do the job correctly you need to disassemble the drive, install the helicoil and then reassemble it exactly as it was before.


A machine shop might be able to set up to do the install and then flush any drilling chips from the inside of the drive. But expensive.

Actually it's a self tapping reamer tap and a spark plug helicoil insert with crush teeth to assist in keeping it in place. It's basically made for spark plug thread repair. But yea, it would go too deep.


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Originally Posted by Capt Cruiser View Post
You can also get a self tapping oversize oil plug so you don't have to run a tap at all. Look them up.

I would keep the drive vertical, (maybe even leave it on the bike on a jack for more room), install the self tapping plug, then go in with a Q-tip and remove any chips from the self tapping.


.

Trying to find an oversize in 14mm with a 1.25 thread pitch is seeming like an impossibility, which is odd given the ubiquity of 1.50 thread pitched bolts. I may have to bite the bullet and pay someone to just drill it and re-tap it at a mechanic, which I hate to do because that's not going to be cheap.



I did find a pdf online about a guy who had the same problem and replaced it with a 14mm x 1.50 piggyback, he just had to start the 1.50 threads with a tap and then it bit in and did the rest. That seems like an okay alternative. I'll give the mech a call over at Iron Pony and see what they have in terms of an estimate for the repair. If it's under $300, it would be worth it to get it done right. Or hell, for that much I might consider just getting another final drive and installing it, now that I know it comes out as one solid unit.

Last edited by elricfate; 03-28-2019 at 07:18 AM.
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