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Fuel pump not on

13K views 11 replies 5 participants last post by  toxicity 
#1 · (Edited)
I drove my 06 c50t down the block to my friends place and shut it off, all was great. I just replaced the clutch (Barnett) 3 days ago and have been riding a lot every day since with no issues.
I put the key in, turn to start and nothing happened. No lights, no fuel pump whine, and no starter engagement. Went through the usual, make sure its in neutral, kick stand up, so on.......
I tried a few more on/off key cycles and suddenly the spedo went all the way to the top speed and then returned to 0 and the digital readout said check. Then I tried moving the key forward very slowly and the tail light flickered at the same position every time but would not stay on when the key was full on.
First I made sure the battery was fully charged and it was, just took it off the maint. charger before I left for the 800ft. trip, hooked up to my friends charger and it was topped off in 30 sec. Multi confirmed it.
I pulled every fuse, 2 30A under seat, and all behind left rear side cover- all look good. no change.
I removed the headlight and checked all plugs. all good. no change.
I removed the tank completely and checked all FI and fuel pump connecters, all good.
made sure the FI controller is plugged in fully. all good.
I have a FI2000R on the bike- unplugged it and went back to stock. no change and no lights on the FI2000R unit when it was plugged in at key cycle.
I removed the tank again and re-attached the FI2000R and got lights at key cycle but only while the fuel pump is unplugged, as soon as I plug in the fuel pump it goes away so I unplugged it for now and went stock again..
Where is the fuel pump relay and could this be the issue?????? I don't know where to go next.
put it all back together, I have lights and gauges but I still cannot hear the fuel pump at all and the starter will not turn over.
I have always had to release the clutch from full in just about an inch to get the starter to engage at all since I got the bike.
It makes a constant and very fast clicking noise when I try to start it, then stops but still no fuel pump.
 
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#3 ·
Yea, that's why I was asking about the "Suzuki state secret" the fuel pump relay, no info on the location online and no one seems to be able to tell me where its at???? Figured I would start there. I have had this thing all apart cleaning, painting, fixing, clutch, bobbing, still gotta do the rocker adjustment and now this.
 
#4 ·
The fuel pump relay is underneath the chrome rear cover on the left side of the bike. It should be the first thing you see when you take that cover off the bike..
 
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#5 ·
HOWEVER....... have you checked the engine stop switch on the right handlebar?
 
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#6 ·
thanks for the relay info, I thought that was it!!!!!!! I did check the switch as far as making sure it was on about 50 times lol! Im gonna go through it again tomorrow with a fine toothed multi-meter... Start with all the communizing switches and go from there to the relays, replace all the fuses, and re-secure every single plug I can get my hands on. Then do a short check and see if it blows-up.
 
#7 ·
worked on it all day, its worse now! TPS clicks and makes a constant high pitch whine with key in on position, starter solenoid clicks when starter is engaged and still does not turn over, fuel pump will still not run prime/run, fuel pump solenoid still clicks!!!! Checked resistance at pump and continuity of wires to fuel pump, voltage to pump and its all good.
Still no bad fuses
unplugged all lights-no change (headlight comes on but very slowly)
I am thinking its the starter switch has a bad wire or a short somewhere inside the headlight cover. As there is about a million wires in there its going to the stealership..........
 
#9 ·
I already dropped it at the dealer, checked on the recall too- no on my bike of course!!! First time in the dealer for any problem on this 2006 bike other than a bad starter once a few years back, nothing but tires. Oil, coolant, and valve adjustments all done at home.
136,423miles on the bike so its about time for something to go wrong and I did just remove the headlight cover and wires to paint it...put in a new clutch, new crush washers for the old cobra streetrods, powder coated the pipes, covers, heat shields, everything in flat black. I am in the middle of doing the heads on my work Ram1500 pickup and a rebuild of an exmark 25hp v-twin motor plus working every day. I just had to give in somewhere.
 
#12 ·
It was a broken pin inside the main yellow connector on the wiring harness inside the headlight cover, upstream of the chassis side going to the switches, the powered side was fine. It was broken in half on the inside so when I back probed it, it pushed the two halves together and all read out as fine. The wire came out of its socket while they were checking the harness, the tech said he would have caught it with the harness check tool they have, but with a multi-meter it would have been hard. I must have loosened it up when I checked it 20 times the day before and it popped out. He didn't charge me for the repair but I still had to pay a diagnostic fee of $79.00.
 
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