I have a 05 boulevard c50 with 15000 miles on it. The bike is a great bike until now. It was running great and then it started acting up and running like crap. I went to start it up one day and started fine then went to running on the front cylinder only. I have changed the spark plugs, run fuel injector cleaner through it and bought a new power commander to replace my cobra fi2000. My shop said they are known to fail after a few years. I have also checked all hoses and still no help. When you start the bike it runs on both cylinders but once it warms up the rear cylinder starts misfiring and then just stops firing. I took it to my shop and there are stumped. They said the compression is fine and all the wires, hoses and electronics checks out ok. They also said that this is known on this model and year bike. Can any one help? Has anyone had this happen before?:crying: I just want my bike to work so I can enjoy the summer and fuel economy.
Makes sense to me just replace the rear spark ignition Coil I believe it will include the wire to the spark plug. If not replace the wire to the plug as well.
I had a similar problem rear cylinder quit working on a Honda Silverwing turned out to be a defective Igniter with my Honda each cylinder has it's own igniter. The Suzuki C50 has one igniter with separate outputs for each Coil. If the Coil is not the problem I would next look at the Igniter. I would replace the Coil first as the Igniter is probably a lot more bucks than a coil and the igniter is more likely to fail catastrophically rather than only when Hot.
Did you try running the bike with the fuel processor removed entirely? If so, what were the results? I would return the bike to STOCK as much as possible, THEN start trouble shooting from there.
I have vanes hines straight shot exhaust and k&n filter. I have tried taking the power commander off and there is no difference. It runs the same with or with out the power commander.
Throw in a new set of plugs, or at least replace the rear one and see if it runs better.
Spark plugs can give the same symptoms. I had an engine that would run fine till it warmed up, then it would start misfiring. After it cooled back down, it would run fine till it warmed back up. I replaced the plugs, and the problem went away.
I have a 05 boulevard c50 with 15000 miles on it. The bike is a great bike until now. It was running great and then it started acting up and running like crap. I went to start it up one day and started fine then went to running on the front cylinder only. I have changed the spark plugs, run fuel injector cleaner through it and bought a new power commander to replace my cobra fi2000. My shop said they are known to fail after a few years. I have also checked all hoses and still no help. When you start the bike it runs on both cylinders but once it warms up the rear cylinder starts misfiring and then just stops firing. I took it to my shop and there are stumped. They said the compression is fine and all the wires, hoses and electronics checks out ok. They also said that this is known on this model and year bike. Can any one help? Has anyone had this happen before?:crying: I just want my bike to work so I can enjoy the summer and fuel economy.
Throw in a new set of plugs, or at least replace the rear one and see if it runs better.
Spark plugs can give the same symptoms. I had an engine that would run fine till it warmed up, then it would start misfiring. After it cooled back down, it would run fine till it warmed back up. I replaced the plugs, and the problem went away.
He said he already replaced the plugs but it does seem to be a lack of proper spark. I would of course look at the spark plugs again an incorrect plug could be the problem. I would think the dealers mechanic would have found an incorrect plug. Still he should Make sure the tip of the plug looks good and hasn't been destroyed by explosive pre-ignition detonation. Oil fouling from blow by could be causing this problem again check the tip of the rear plug.
It does seem to be a spark problem. I would switch out the Spark Coil next as a possible failure under heat and then change out the Igniter which also could be the problem but is a costly part. It makes sense to replace the sparking components it order of cost and ease of replacing with an intermittent problem which appears to be spark related. First Plugs, then Coil, then Igniter.
It could also be a lack of fuel due to a defective in the fuel injector system. But swapping out the Spark Coil is cheap and easy so I would try this first almost as easy as a new spark plug. However, if it's really defective spark you should be hearing a real backfire now and again from the unburned fuel exploding in your exhaust should sound much like a shotgun shell if you are not hearing a Backfire/shotgun going off every now and then it could easily be insufficient fuel from a defect in the FI system occurring only when the stuff is hot.
Everyone keeps talking about plugs and coils. I'd suggest changing out the plug wires. I've had one get loose and melt through the insulation because it started touching the engine. Basically it did the same thing, I lost one of the cylinders. Of course that was in a 6 cylinder truck so it was a code and slightly rough on the running. It's alot more noticeable when you only have two cylinders!
Everyone keeps talking about plugs and coils. I'd suggest changing out the plug wires. I've had one get loose and melt through the insulation because it started touching the engine. Basically it did the same thing, I lost one of the cylinders. Of course that was in a 6 cylinder truck so it was a code and slightly rough on the running. It's alot more noticeable when you only have two cylinders!
On lots of small engines including MCs the spark plug wire is a part of the Coil Assembly so changing the coil adds a fresh wire to the plug. If this isn't the case of course changing the spark plug wire makes a lot of sense. No distributers on MC timing and distribution is done via the igniter in the case of the C50 one igniter with outputs to two spark Coils one for the front and one for the back cylinder,
Also check the boot ends of the wires. There is a rubber boot that is glued to the wire and clamps the hard plug 45 deg. boot. Sometimes the connection between the wire and boot, which is threaded comes loose. Pull back the rubber between the wire and the hard boot and check that the hard boot is threaded tightly into the wire. If not, cut ¼" off the wire and thread it back on.
I missed the part on the new plugs. I have run into that same problem with new plugs, and old plugs alike. I have purchased new plugs that were bad right out of the box.
We tested the spark coil and they are good. They heated them up and they never failed out. They did find a pinch in the fuel line and were replacing that. Next thing to test is the ignitor. He also checked the wire ends and there good. I appreciate everyone's help with this problem.
We tested the spark coil and they are good. They heated them up and they never failed out. They did find a pinch in the fuel line and were replacing that. Next thing to test is the ignitor. He also checked the wire ends and there good. I appreciate everyone's help with this problem.
Fuel line kink or pinch may fix it after all the owners manual says to replace the fuel line and brake hose every 4 years but I don't know of any one who replaces the fuel lines and brake hose every 4 years like the maintenance schedule recommends. But the ignitor test may yield the answer.
When I finally get around to replacing the brake lines I plan to use steel covered brake lines and probably will go with a red color to match my paint job.
Ok its not the fuel line. I am at a loss. Im pulling the bike out of the shop tomorrow and taking it somewhere else. We went through everything we could think of. Anyone else have any ideas?
Fuel injector cleaning the good thing about witchhunter is they give you a report on functioning of your injectors before and after cleaning. Eliminates have I really found the problem. Hint if you use them mark the injectors front and back and send a note about your problem with the injectors.
If cleaning doesn't fix an injector with problems upon receipt by witchhunter you will at least know you have the problem a defective injector.
Dont trust and off the bike coil test !!!!!!!!!!!! In the small engine industry NO off engine coil test is accurate !!!!! Check fire on the unit ,cold then hot using preferably an adjustable air gap spark tester .. That lets you stress the coil by widening the spark gap.,,,the wider the gap,stronger the coil ... also compare front to rear.
Dont trust and off the bike coil test !!!!!!!!!!!! In the small engine industry NO off engine coil test is accurate !!!!! Check fire on the unit ,cold then hot using preferably an adjustable air gap spark tester .. That lets you stress the coil by widening the spark gap.,,,the wider the gap,stronger the coil ... also compare front to rear.
Makes sense to me but if you have them off the bike run more tests. I would switch them front to rear cylinder to see if the problem moves. Or If they are cheap enough just install new ones. :shades:
I once had a problem with bad sparking on a car after the car ran for a while turned out to be a really tiny leak in a radiator hose spraying antifreeze solution catching coil and distributer cap.
From the above Ignition coil thread one of these guys has a problem of cylinder cutting out after 40 miles or so and then almost OK after a rest. Follow the thread and see if replacing coils solves his problem.
When I lost a cylinder it was a defective igniter not coils my motorcycle was carbed with dual igniters still very pricey (I got mine with a trade from a friend of a friend who collects Motorcycles) but I read the Suzuki igniter is really expensive. My igniter failure was catastrophic not intermittent a lot easier to isolate the problem. Good luck with your witch hunt.
Correct me if I'm wrong....but wouldn't the "IGNITER" perform the same job as a "Hall Effect" pickup in an automotive distributor? I'm asking because....I had a '90 Dodge Daytona that would run great - until it got good and warm, then start acting like a clogged fuel filter. It would still run, but BAD. The motor was a smoker so I had another complete motor waiting to go in it. I swapped out the "pick-up in the distributor and it cured the problem, the car became dependable again. Funny thing was that after the swap....the car didn't have the guts that it did before the swap.
On the 2001 to 2004 Suzuki the Igniter is more complex. Cost $330 with Coils costing $80 each.
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