Hehe, don't know about "smart" but it it's ingenious nonetheless. [email protected]
, I wish I could show you an open relay I have here at home, you would laugh at how simple of a device it is. When you send power to it from the options connector (between 85 and 86), you energize a small coil that acts as a magnet. Once the coil is energized, it "pulls" a contact down until it meets another contact and thereby closing a new circuit (between 30 and 87) straight from the battery. This new circuit can handle as much Amperage as the relay is rated for (usually 30 Amps in our applications). Depending on the wire size you use, make sure to match the in-line fuse to that wire (chart is on previous page).
Imagine that: You ask only around 3 Watts from the options connector to energize a magnet, and it will close a circuit of up to 30 Amperes (!!) for you; yet your ignition switch would never know, it's only being "tickled" by a barely noticable "ballast" of 3 Watts.
There are several styles and varieties of relays, you only need the most basic one, a so-called SPST (single pole single throw) relay with 4 posts, cost is about $5 in any auto parts store. A cheap peace of mind!
OH - lastly, if you plan on having the lights on ALL THE TIME whenever the bike is running, you can cut out the manual switch altogether. The relay will always be powered and so will your lights when you turn your key. What I don't like about that setup is that when you start your bike, you need a good amount of Amps from the battery to turn the starter - the add'l lights will take up to 10 Amps from the battery before you crank it, making this setup unattractive to me, but it will work.