How to fix your Ignition Switch - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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Old 10-07-2007, 10:37 PM Thread Starter
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How to fix your Ignition Switch

Looks as if a few people are having a problem with their bike not starting due to a faulty ignition switch. There is a recall from Suzuki on this, but if you have to fix it yourself, this is how. This is long, but here goes...

To determine first if this is your problem, when you turn the key on, the brake light is on, the blinkers work, but nothing else does, NOTHING else does.

1. Go buy a set of SECURITY TORX bits. These are regular torx bits, but have a hole in the middle. You have to have these first. Preferably, do not get the ones shaped like an allen wrench. Get the ones that you can put on a 1/4 inch extention and ratchet, or a T_Handle set. The specific Torx bit you need is a T-20. Also buy some of that bulb grease while you are there, the kind for light bulbs on a car.

2. Remove drivers seat. If you still have the pillion on, you also have to remove it first. Once the seat is off, remove the 30 AMP main fuse. It is under a plastic cover close to the tank. If you don't remove this fuse, you will blow it when putting the switch back together.



3. Remove gas tank. You do not have to take it off the bike. You can remove the bolt where the front of the seat is, then slide it back. Just pick the back up a little and pull back. Make sure it is sitting solid so it will not fall of the bike. This is about how far I pulled my tank back.



4. Remove the black plastic neck cover opposite the key side. It just pops off. Pull at the bottom then from the top. You will see a metal rod. Maybe an 1/8" in diameter. The top part has a bolt that holds it to the frame. The bottom part just slides into a hole on tab welded to the frame.



5. Now you will see the electrical plug for the switch. Mine is green. You will need to unplug this.


6. Now you will see the back of the iginiton switch. There are are 2 little torx head screws that hold it on. You will have to hold the cables out of the way to remove the screws, as the cables are in the way. Be really carefull when removing these screws, they are small and like to drop into funny nooks and crannies.



7. Now you will see a white cross shaped piece of plastic with 2 chrome balls on it. Remove this, it just pulls out, really easy.



8. Here are the spring loaded copper tabs.


These need to go up and down real easy when you press them down. Sometimes they just get stuck down from maybe being "dry". Mine was stuck down because the plastic was a little melted from to much load on the electrical part. I'm thinking maybe my spot lights might be pulling to much juice. So I put them on a switch.

9. Now put some of that grease on these tabs and work it in. Also, spread some grease on the little copper pods in the switch. This black piece just slides out also. If you turn it over, you will see the little resistor there that gives people problems when they try to place an after market switch on their bike.




10. Now also put some of that grease inside the little cover you pull pulled off. You will see some indentions in there. This is what the 2 little balls on the white piece rotate on. These cause the little bumps you feel when you turn the key.




11. Now put the black piece back in. It only can go in one way. Now slide the white piece back on the shaft. If you look at the end of shaft, you will see is is cross shaped. Look at the end and put the white piece on. One side is thick, one side is narrow. Hard to explain, just look. Match up the hole design in the white piece with the same design at the rod coming out.



12. Now put the cover back on and replace those small screws. Be carefull not to drop them. Just snug these screws up. They are cheap metal and will strip if over tightened.

13. Now replug the electrical connection, replace the 30 amp fuse and turn the key. Everything should work now. If it doesn't work, first check the fuse. If it still doesn't work, pull the fuse, then pull the cover off the switch again and make sure everything is ok. But it should work.

14. Now replace that little metal rod, the plactic neck cover. Then slide the tank back up and rebolt it. Replace you seat(s), start the bike and ride!!

Hope this is able to help some people here.
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Old 10-07-2007, 11:05 PM
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Awesome work harryp!
I'm smellin' something sticky if a moderator comes around.



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Old 10-07-2007, 11:13 PM
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Nice work and this seems like a very helpful document.

If I had an affected bike and this hasn't happened yet, I'd be scheduling the recall fix at the dealer. Might as well let Suzuki's folks fix the Suzuki screw-up, but that's just me. I'm always afraid I'm gonna mess something up and make it worse than it was to begin with.

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Old 10-07-2007, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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Awesome work harryp!
I'm smellin' something sticky if a moderator comes around.
Thanks. I was in another town when this happened the 2nd time. So I had my son come pick me up and take me home. I got the torx wrenches, I had every other tool I needed in my bags. Then while I was waiting for him to pick me up, I thought I might as well take pictures write up a list so I could post it. This takes maybe 30 minutes even with taking pictures, with a hot sun beating down on you in a parking lot.

Btw, 4-5 other bikers pulled into the same lot I was in, got gas, etc, and never even bothered to say a word. Some bikers those guys are...
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Old 10-07-2007, 11:20 PM
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VeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrYYYYYYY interesting Harry, I have a little switch work to do on my rebuilder myself. Good pics to refer to when I get in there. Thanks.
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Old 10-07-2007, 11:22 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TNrookie
Nice work and this seems like a very helpful document.

If I had an affected bike and this hasn't happened yet, I'd be scheduling the recall fix at the dealer. Might as well let Suzuki's folks fix the Suzuki screw-up, but that's just me. I'm always afraid I'm gonna mess something up and make it worse than it was to begin with.
What is sad with the dealer, is they do charge some people for the ignition switch. and guess what? You have to replace the gas cap also so the same key will work. You can remove the other side of the switch and just put the old tumbler set in. real easy. Heck, when I did this last fix, I did pull the other side off and spray the tumblers with WD-40. Now my key goes right in!
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Old 10-07-2007, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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VeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrYYYYYYY interesting Harry, I have a little switch work to do on my rebuilder myself. Good pics to refer to when I get in there. Thanks.
Viper
You refering to the diode/resistor in the switch by chance?
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Old 10-08-2007, 12:06 AM
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 472viper
VeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrYYYYYYY interesting Harry, I have a little switch work to do on my rebuilder myself. Good pics to refer to when I get in there. Thanks.
Viper
You refering to the diode/resistor in the switch by chance?
LOL, no get this, the M50 was hit so hard that the key side of the ignition switch cracked almost in two. I have another switch assembly, but as you said I will have to remove the the keyset from the cracked set and install it in the replacement so the ignition and gas cap are still keyed alike.
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Old 10-08-2007, 08:26 AM
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thanks or the photos and writeup, forum needs all the info we can get.....you think a little wd40 worked into the switch might help a little?

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Old 10-08-2007, 08:55 AM
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Recall does not address this.

I have had this problem with my 05 C50 and did the procedure listed with sucess. The recall for the ignition switch only address the external wire routing (from the green plug around the clutch and throttle cable wearing a hole in the insulation) and not the internal defective design of the switch. Suzuki, to my knowledge has not owned up to this one yet.

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