My experience doing the "DJ Drive Mod" (BB U-Joint c50 Versoin) - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-04-2012, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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My experience doing the "DJ Drive Mod" (BB U-Joint c50 Versoin)

I bought a used 2007 C-50T a month ago, I felt the need for a "6th gear" from the very beginning. I didn't really notice how low this bike was geared during my test ride before the purchase, but on the way home, once I hit the interstate, it was clear. I thought maybe I had made a mistake buying the C-50, I was considering trading it or selling it by the time I got home. For the next week I rode the bike a lot trying to get use to it. I loved everything else about the bike except the low gearing, I was trying to convince myself it would be OK. I remembered reading the phrase "DJ Drive Mod" in the past so I Googled it and found these forums...That's just what I need!! I started rounding up parts immediately...

I finished her up last weekend. I chose to do the "BB U-Joint" version of the mod. I didn't mind the extra labor involved over a modded driveshaft. I actually could have done the modded C-50 driveshaft (still may) but opted for the u-joint version for this go round.

I honestly couldn't be more happy with my bike!! I love it!! Thanks to all the folks who contributed their information and experience here on these forums!! It made it possible for me to do this mod without a single problem!!

Now it's time for me to "pay a little back" which is the reason for this post. I tried to take some pictures during my mod in hopes that someone else may benefit from them in the future. There is plenty enough information on here already but I'm hoping this might add a little bit more.

Here we go:

I used a VS1400, stock C-50 driveshaft, stock spacer and stock u-joint

One thing not included in the first picture that I would recommend adding to your "parts required list" is Part# 27313-38B00 PLATE, STOPPER (under 5 bucks)


Here are my parts ready to go (except p/n 27313-38B00). I followed the required parts list in the How To vs1400 Drive thread and the BB C-50 U-Joint thread...



Prepping the drive to accept the driveshaft using plenty of Honda Moly paste...I actually bought a new driveshaft so I could keep the bike running and leave my stock set-up intact.



I used this piece of pipe and large washer to drive the oil seal into place. Place the washer against the seal and use the pipe as a "slide hammer"...



I wanted a nice accurate line marked on the u-joint to cut too. I found a piece of 3/16 balsa from the hobby room and a razor blade to use for this...



Here I'm holding the razor blade firmly in place while rotating the u-joint around in order to scribe my witness line...I concentrated on keeping the u-joint flat on the table as I rotated it...



My 3/16 witness line for the u-joint cut...



I wanted to make sure the band saw was square and the blade was tight prior too making the cut. I felt the closer I could get the initial cut the easier it would be to finish off...



Taking some extra time squaring up the u-joint before clamping her down (notice the wood underneath to help prevent slipping)



Final touches...



Making the cut...I set the saw to a very light pressure so the cut rate was very slow...



The band saw cut turned out pretty nice but did require some "finishing"...Here are the tools I used for the finishing process



Finished u-joint with 3/16 removed from the transmission side (long side)...**Notice** If you look closely you will see that I put a 1/8 step back in the splines to mimic the factory arrangement...I would not recommend this...It is not necessary and takes too much extra time...I would definitely recommend a slight bevel on the end of the splines to ease instillation and relieve stress but that's all I think you really need...



Now on to the spacer:

I tried to scribe a line but the spacer is hardened so it kinda laughed at the razorblades efforts to mark it...lol



I had to come up with a way to get my witness line so I could grind the 2mm off the end and here is what I came up with...



Using 2mm wood again from the hobby room, doing the same process except this time tightly wrapping tape around the spacer and using it to provide the witness line...



It worked out real nice and gave me a good accurate line to grind too...



Again, making sure everything was set up square on my grinder I began grinding away the required 2mm. In order to keep the end nice and square I concentrated on holding it firmly and rotating the spacer whenever it was being ground...Short little bursts and take a break when it gets too hot...



Turned out Really Nice!! I actually impressed myself..he he



Stock length on the right, modified spacer on the left...



Breaking the bike down to get too the u-joint...



I removed the swingarm (not as big a deal as it sounds) which in my opinion you will have to do...



Modified u-joint in place, again with plenty moly grease...



Here is a pic of that Part# 27313-38B00 PLATE, STOPPER clamped in place so I can use it a guide for enlarging the swing arm holes



Enlarging the swingarm holes (note: swingarm is on bike in this photo but was off when I actually ground it)



Re-assembly was totally smooth and now she's ready to get back on the road!!



I opted for the fake swingarm delete as I think it looks much cooler!!



Well thanks and sorry this is soo long...Hopefully this is a little insight on doing the "BB Drive Mod"
which may be helpful to someone out there in the future...

I love my bike!!

Have Fun and Ride Safe!!
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Last edited by navav2002; 07-08-2012 at 04:17 AM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-04-2012, 11:22 AM
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Thanks for the write-up I will be doing this in the future and I think just like you did it. Usually I am fine with the bike as-is but sometimes on slab I will slow down from 70 to 60 and think this is what 70 would be like.
Mainly want to to save wear and tear on bike as I plan to keep the Ghost till I junk her, yea may change but from past history probably not

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-04-2012, 11:30 AM
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Great write up and pics.

Really nice work!!




When I want to read a really good Harley thread, I just turn to VolusiaRiders.com
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-04-2012, 11:57 AM
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Looking good!

Can't wait to bolt one up myself!
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-04-2012, 12:36 PM
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Wonderful tutorial.. A quick question, The couterbore that you did, i think the counterbore is there to clear the taper on the end of the splines (close to the shoulder?)
The mod you did mimics the stock setup- why do you not recommend doing this mod?.
Makes sense that it would be safer to mimic the stock fitment?. Did you take a pic perhaps of the stob end that the U joint slides over as it comes out of the transmission?...
Great Job!

It ain't getting what you want..It's wanting what u got!
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-04-2012, 01:58 PM
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Excellent write up, if I had the tools I'd give this route a try as well. I don't, so off to Dan Hillis my parts do go!

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-04-2012, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by M50Dave View Post
Wonderful tutorial.. A quick question, The couterbore that you did, i think the counterbore is there to clear the taper on the end of the splines (close to the shoulder?)
The mod you did mimics the stock setup- why do you not recommend doing this mod?.
Makes sense that it would be safer to mimic the stock fitment?. Did you take a pic perhaps of the stob end that the U joint slides over as it comes out of the transmission?...
Great Job!
Excellent Question!!

My personal opinion is that it's not necessary nor worth the effort hence my recommendation...Obviously doing it like the factory can't be wrong...So I guess it's up to the individual...

If you'll notice the attached picture (which is where this end of the u joint goes at the transmission) there is no need for the clearance on the u-joint. The shoulder of the u-joint will contact the "land area" and the full length splines will not "hit anything" with that smooth relieved area forward of the splines.

The driveshaft side is another story...The grooves end before the shoulder and there is no "relief" too allow the shoulder of the u-joint to mate with the driveshaft...A relief in the u-joint is necessary to get the "shoulder to shoulder" contact...

Hope that makes some sense!! (I knew I should have taken a picture of that...Dang...)

Thanks to 427Viper for posting this pic which I found in another thread...
Attached Images
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Last edited by navav2002; 07-08-2012 at 04:27 AM.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-04-2012, 10:27 PM
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Very Nice Write-up...I only wished I had had the patience to document as you did...I was in a hurry to get it all back together...

BB

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-05-2012, 12:33 AM
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Good job, and thank you for sharing.

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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 08-17-2017, 12:32 AM
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What happen to all the pics for the thread like to see more pics on the mods done to the parts please
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