Valve adjustment on a 2006 C50 - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-17-2010, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Valve adjustment on a 2006 C50

Have been fighting a cold but decided to get out of the house this afternoon and adjust my valves instead of just going for a ride. (Now I'm wishing I would have gone for a ride and put this off for another day.)
I have a Clymer manual which is not always all that helpful on specifics. Have read the threads here - most of which seem to be the carb models which must be at least somewhat different than FI.
Run out of steam and decided to call it a day.
What I'm having a problem with is for instance - the left side front chrome cover on top of the cylinder head. The bolts are long and I got them loose but can't get them out to remove the cover. They hit on the top frame member before there is enough room to pull them completely out. Although, I haven't tried them yet looks like the rear cylinder right side chrome cover is going to be a problem also. What am I missing here?
Also, guess I need to remove the air cleaner and snorkel???
Would appreciate any help you can offer.
By the way I have a 2006 C50.
Probably won't get back to this until Friday and tomorow is supposed to be a nice Sunny day.

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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-17-2010, 08:39 PM
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i also have a 2006 and i did the adjustment this winter, you dont remove the left front & right rear covers only the ones with the smaller bolts, also my clymer manual said to turn engine in the opposite direction then has been recommended on this site, dont remember i think you turn counter-clockwise not sure do some research, also remove the carb but keep the throttle cables attached, take your time, it took me about 4 hours, it was my first time.
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-17-2010, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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rjrc50 wrote:
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i also have a 2006 and i did the adjustment this winter, you dont remove the left front & right rear covers only the ones with the smaller bolts, also my clymer manual said to turn engine in the opposite direction then has been recommended on this site, dont remember i think you turn counter-clockwise not sure do some research, also remove the carb but keep the throttle cables attached, take your time, it took me about 4 hours, it was my first time.
rjrc50 thanks for the info.
When I get back on it I'll try it without removing the covers with the long bolts. Didn't see how to get those out anyway. However, since out C50's are fuel injected I assume you mean to remove the throttle body not the carb? That makes sense since the Clymer said to remove the carb and the sticky here said to remove the carb. Guess that translates to throttle body on the 2006.
Also, Clymer said to turn the engine over clockwise and I have seen the thread here that said to turn it over counter clockwise.
I'm sure this is like anything else - the first time always takes about twice as long as the second time.

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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-19-2010, 08:46 PM Thread Starter
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Well, finished adjusting the valves today thanks to your help and the sticky. Took me most of the day but had several interruptions with the grandkids. They also wanted me to hurry so I could take them for a ride.
I'm not sure I would reccommend someone who is mechanically challenged to try it. Also, thinking I just might try the "jpaige" method next time. Used a propane torch to bend the feeler gauage. Guess the heat took the temper out of it because it was easier to bend cold after I had heated it the first time and needed to bend it again. But with no more space than you have to work with I found it hard to be precise with the adjustments.
However, all of my valves were tight. No way I could get the correct sized feeler guage in any of them set the way they were. Got'r Done and took it for a test ride.
Wow!! Maybe it is just my imagination but sure seems to me that it pulls a lot harder running up thru the gears. Didn't see anything wrong with the old spark plugs but put new ones in anyway. So I don't think the difference I could feel was due to the plugs.
What I was concerned about was before I adjusted the valves was I couldn't hear the "sewing machine" sound I read about here.
As soon as I started it up I could hear what you were talking about. However, after I rode for a few miles and got it good and hot I didn't hear the sewing machine sound anymore. Is that normal??

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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 12:02 AM
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yup

BTW to make it easier I also took off the air snorkel and the chrome pipe from the PAIR valve



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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 12:51 AM
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Am I just the lucky guy that gets to tear it all apart again to replace the valve cover gasket that didn't seal. Not a bad leak. If i wasn't so fussy it could be ingnored. Have to wipe a little oil film off the top fin every couple hundred miles, thats all.
It's the rear left side thats leaking.

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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 09:18 AM
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The only way to remove the chrome head cover decorations is to pull the engine out of the frame. Those bolts go all the way to the "block".
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-20-2010, 09:23 AM
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I just un-tighten the cover bolts, removed the short ones and swing them away.



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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-22-2010, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Boxwrench wrote:
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BTW to make it easier I also took off the air snorkel and the chrome pipe from the PAIR valve
Yep, that would have made it easier to get the rear-most valve cover off but was able to do it without removing the Pair vale tubing.

Windburn Bill wrote:
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Am I just the lucky guy that gets to tear it all apart again to replace the valve cover gasket that didn't seal. Not a bad leak. If i wasn't so fussy it could be ingnored. Have to wipe a little oil film off the top fin every couple hundred miles, thats all.
It's the rear left side thats leaking.
Most be you are just lucky that way. I thought about getting new o-ring gaskets for the valve covers but didn't make the trip to the stealership to get them. So far no leaks. But next time I'll get new gaskets AND get that security thingy from Habor Frieght that the sticky shows for holding the tappet bolt while tightening the nut. Didn't have anything small enough for it not even an ignition wrench. But got along without it this time. Just took longer.

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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-23-2010, 08:57 AM
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That tappet bolt holder you speak of-make a hillbilly wrench or redneck wrench from a credit card plastic. That is what the big boys around here use. someone might have the ole Briman instructions around here for that wrench.
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