How to guide: Adjusting your valves 101 with pics and vid - Page 6 - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #51 of 168 (permalink) Old 06-16-2010, 06:02 PM
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Bookmarked, thanks for the detail.

2005 Silver and Black C50
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post #52 of 168 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 10:01 PM
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valve adjustment 101l

Does anyone know how much different the procedure is to adjust the valves on a 2008 c50 vs. a 2002 volusia? Is there enough room to actually do the job correctly? Will i need any additional or special tools? Or should I just pay a stealer to do the job?

Any suggestions or help would really be great.

Paul
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post #53 of 168 (permalink) Old 07-18-2010, 11:58 PM
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Re: valve adjustment 101l

Quote:
Originally Posted by pwsl100
Does anyone know how much different the procedure is to adjust the valves on a 2008 c50 vs. a 2002 volusia? Is there enough room to actually do the job correctly? Will i need any additional or special tools? Or should I just pay a stealer to do the job?

Any suggestions or help would really be great.

Paul
Are you asking if these instructions (for a Volusia) are adequate to use on a C50? If so, then yes, they are. I've never had a Volusia, but I used these instructions to adjust my C50 valves without any serious trouble.

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post #54 of 168 (permalink) Old 08-02-2010, 10:09 PM
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Thanks for the guide. I did the 600 mile valve service on my 2009 C50. It differs from the pictures posted due to the fuel injection. The procedure is the same, but I figured I would post some updated pictures showing the throttle body removal.


Here you can see the TB removed and turned on it's side. You have to disconnect both the green and white connectors to get enough room to swing the TB on it's side. Also I put a piece of paper towel into each intake port just to make sure if I dropped something I wouldn't have to take the whole thing apart.



Here you can see the clamp hex screw that tightens the two bores of the TB to the intake manifold. The clamp loosens and tighten both bores from the one screw. I also removed the chrome tube that goes over the top of the valve covers. It was easier then trying to work around them.



Here's a picture from the right side.
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post #55 of 168 (permalink) Old 08-02-2010, 10:21 PM
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+1 on all of the post above for the C50. I did the same.
Fortunate for me I found brass feeler gauges that can be bent into a Z shape to help get them into the valve tappets.



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post #56 of 168 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 01:34 AM
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Thank you Adrexco!
Those are great pictures, even though I don't know what I'm looking at, I think they may help when I have to do this.

2006 Suzuki C50T. All OEM.
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post #57 of 168 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 05:37 AM
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Quote:
RT = Rear Top position
FT = Front Top position

means the cylinder is at the firing point and bothe valves are closed.
So at this point you can set the valves.

Be sure you are on the COMPRESSION stroke. It is possible to set the
valves 180* off on the exhaust stroke....bad.....
I'm about to take the big step. But this is TROUBLING me! If you see the R/T
or F/T in the viewing port, isn't it impossible to be 180 degrees off? I mean,
if I have "R/T" in the window, I can adjust all four of the valves in the rear
cylinder--2 exhaust and 2 intake, right?
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post #58 of 168 (permalink) Old 08-03-2010, 09:52 PM
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Okie am gonna bump your question and ask one myself. If I can see R/T in the sight and the piston is at the top as indicated by my dowel rod in the spark plug hole I can adjust all of the rear valves?

Is the same true for the front? with piston at the top and F/T in the sight?
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post #59 of 168 (permalink) Old 08-04-2010, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STEAK
Okie am gonna bump your question and ask one myself. If I can see R/T in the sight and the piston is at the top as indicated by my dowel rod in the spark plug hole I can adjust all of the rear valves?

Is the same true for the front? with piston at the top and F/T in the sight?
yes. both intake and exhaust valves are closed.

Provided you aren't 180 degrees off in the rotation.



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post #60 of 168 (permalink) Old 08-04-2010, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Okie
I'm about to take the big step. But this is TROUBLING me! If you see the R/T
or F/T in the viewing port, isn't it impossible to be 180 degrees off? I mean,
if I have "R/T" in the window, I can adjust all four of the valves in the rear
cylinder--2 exhaust and 2 intake, right?
Okie,

There are 2 TDC positions for each cylinder. TDC on the compression stroke and TDC on the exhaust stroke. Both will correspond with the RT/FT mark printed on the flywheel. If you try to set the valve clearance on the exhaust stroke, you will end up 180* out and it will affect the valve clearance. At TDC on the compression stroke, there is no pressure on either the intake and exhaust rocker arm. If you are at TDC on the exhaust stroke, the intake valves will be completely closed, but the exhaust valves will be open or partially open. Setting the clearance on this TDC will result in extremely loose exhaust valves and a poor running engine.

When you have the cylinder set to TDC on the compression stroke, Then you will adjust ALL of the valves at the same time. Exhaust valves are between .007 and .009" and the intake valves are between .003 and .005"

It's time consuming and a bit intimidating the first time you do it. But if you have the right tools and a bit of patience, it really isn't a hard maintenance to perform..

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