Clutch Plate/Spring Replacement DIY - Page 3 - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #21 of 31 (permalink) Old 11-19-2011, 11:49 PM
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Well, I got tired of the clutch slipping every time I throw down throttle so I went ahead and ordered a Barnett clutch and springs picked up a gasket and a exhaust gasket too (it wasn't mentioned but I got it just i case)gave this thread a good read and then I went at it. Everything went smooth except the old gasket was a biotch to remove. I did use permatex #2 on the cover side only. After the clutch was replaced I also did an adjustment and WOW does this new clutch grab and hook up right away.

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post #22 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-19-2012, 02:58 PM
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awesome, just what i was looking for... does the barnett kit include the clutch plates and the springs?

this kit?

Last edited by debo; 03-19-2012 at 03:01 PM.
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post #23 of 31 (permalink) Old 03-20-2012, 02:12 PM
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guess i'll just call them.
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post #24 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 07:01 PM
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N00Bie Question

I had seen that the plates get soaked in oil. Why?
Getting ready to do mine and I want to make sure everything is right and I don't mess it all up.......Forgive my ignorance!

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post #25 of 31 (permalink) Old 06-25-2012, 08:08 PM
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I have always soaked the plates on any wet clutch I have re-built.
The friction plates are made to be run and used in oil,
so by soaking them first,
they will be ready to run,
no dry burnishing or friction glazing.

Here is something from Barnett's FAQ:
Q: How much stronger are Barnett clutch springs than stock?
A: While Barnett springs vary with each application, they are generally about 10-15% stronger than stock springs.

Q: How do I clean my clutch plates?
A: Lightly scuff the friction plates with a Scotch Brite pad to remove any shine and glaze from the surface. If the friction plates are being used in a wet clutch, be sure to soak the plates in oil before re-installing. Steel drive plates can also be scuffed with Scotch Brite or bead blasted.

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post #26 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 09:49 PM
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great pics thanks!!!
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post #27 of 31 (permalink) Old 05-14-2013, 11:13 PM
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I really appreciate this series of pictures and the explanation of what you did, as someone who used to wrench on his own bike decades ago. No longer have garage space and few tools these day. However, your presentation has made this nearly doable curbside. Thanks for posting.
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post #28 of 31 (permalink) Old 10-13-2014, 01:04 AM
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whats the specs on tightning the bolts.
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post #29 of 31 (permalink) Old 04-03-2015, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by wehrd1 View Post
are all the bolts that hold the clutch cover in place the same size/length?

I know when we did my Marauder clutch spring replacement, the bolts that held the chrome engine/clutch cover on were 2 diff. lengths, and HAD to be replaced in the same holes.

Thankfully I had read up on it, and was given a quick hint that before removing the new gasket from the package, take a sharpie and trace the gasket on the pkg. cardboard, and when removing the bolts from the clutch cover, insert them in the cardboard in the same holes you removed them from the cover. That way, you'll be sure to put the same bolts back in the same holes.

good pictorial. Thanks!
Wow, what a great idea. Thanks.

2006 Suzuki Boulevard C-50
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post #30 of 31 (permalink) Old 08-17-2018, 04:27 PM
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Related question, I just did the same on my 06 C-90, plates and springs as the old ones were, like yours, slipping. I also wouldn't engage until about the last half inch of clutch grip. After putting it back together with the Bartlett kit, I now won't engage at all. It shifts smoothly from gear to gear but doesn't actually engage the gears, or more accurately, disengage the clutch. At a loss, any ideas, thanks.
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