100k or BUST! - Page 3 - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #21 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-03-2019, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Skrapiron View Post
Um, with 96k on the clock, you're either going to have to give it away or find someone who doesn't know any better. That bike is used up.
Like I said .find him a good home. I don't expect to get much and would give it away to the right person. I absolutely don't think it used up.... but didn't want to take it cross country which was the planned trip. Well taken care of so I would not hesitate to ride it locally (which is all that a TON of riders do.... especially new riders).
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post #22 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-13-2019, 06:35 PM
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Um, with 96k on the clock, you're either going to have to give it away or find someone who doesn't know any better. That bike is used up.
I agree the bike is shot. At 96k miles it will cost more than its' worth to get the bike up to snuff. It's had a good long life. Time to send it to the scrap yard.

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post #23 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Skrapiron View Post
Um, with 96k on the clock, you're either going to have to give it away or find someone who doesn't know any better. That bike is used up.
Like I said ….find him a good home. I don't expect to get much and would give it away to the right person. I absolutely don't think it used up.... but didn't want to take it cross country which was the planned trip. Well taken care of so I would not hesitate to ride it locally (which is all that a TON of riders do.... especially new riders).
I have two already. Its not a cost thing. Its a i like working on my own bike thing. Then knowing what i can expect of my workmanship. If someone else does it, i would never have quite as much confidence as if i turned the torque ratchet myself. If something goes wrong then. Well no one else to blame.
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post #24 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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How often did you adjust the valves?
Adjusted the valves last around 38000. After initial purchase adjustment at 27435. No noise since then and same feeler gauge clearance last time i replaced the valve cover gaskets at 62000, so i didnt fool with them. Havent checked in a while. Might do that today too.
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post #25 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 11:46 AM Thread Starter
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New rear tire. Think im at 84500 or so. Possibly new rear bearing install. Not necessary just ordered new fr and r last time i ordered to get free shipping. Remount air horn and 12v socket. Couple small 12v lights for rear. One is a red line and other is a skull projected on the road. Thinking of attaching to running lamp crkt . Anyone have any suggestions about rear bearing replacement?
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post #26 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-26-2019, 07:57 PM
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Adjusted the valves last around 38000. After initial purchase adjustment at 27435. No noise since then and same feeler gauge clearance last time i replaced the valve cover gaskets at 62000, so i didnt fool with them. Havent checked in a while. Might do that today too.
Wow that is quite the gap between checking. Ive always thought valve clearance inspections are too regular for most bikes anyway
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post #27 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 01:43 PM
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New rear tire. Think im at 84500 or so. Possibly new rear bearing install. Not necessary just ordered new fr and r last time i ordered to get free shipping. Remount air horn and 12v socket. Couple small 12v lights for rear. One is a red line and other is a skull projected on the road. Thinking of attaching to running lamp crkt . Anyone have any suggestions about rear bearing replacement?
A concrete wedge anchor makes a great tool for removing stubborn wheel bearings if the spacer won't slide over enough to allow for a solid hit with a drift. A 3/4" anchor works well for the common 6203 wheel bearing. Tap the anchor into the I.D, flip the wheel around, use a long punch/crappy long socket extension to give the wedge a few taps to "set" the clip and bit into the I.D. Then a few solid hits should shoot the bearing out with the anchor. Tap the anchor out backwards, squash the clip back down with pliers, and re-use.

Get bearings off ebay or online. Avoid the cheap no-name ones. SKF or Nachi bearings can be had for $6-7 online. Parts stores tend to charge huge markups. Napa wanted like $30 for the same bearing.

Pop the bearings in the freezer, then torch the hub, get it nice and warm. The bearing will practically fall into place.

Last edited by RWhitehosue; 03-29-2019 at 01:46 PM.
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post #28 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 02:15 PM
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I'm actually relatively surprised there's a few of these that are closing in on 100k. I thought the tensioner failure/cam chain death rattle sent most of these to the scrap heap by 40-50k or so. I worked at a Suzuki dealer in the "back of house" i.e the shop for a couple years and most had the signature rattle of tensioner failure by about 40k miles. I thought it was virtually a universal problem and generally recommended customers that had these getting into the 30k+ range to think about getting out of the bike soon- and buying a Vulcan, Shadow, Vstar, ect. Very few seemed to buy another Suzuki, understandably disappointed that their bike was worn out to the point it wasn't worth fixing by 40k miles.
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post #29 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 02:50 PM
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Most people would rebuild them if Skrap wouldn't talk them out of it

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post #30 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-29-2019, 03:05 PM
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Riding style, riding habits, climate bike is used in, how regular servicing is, type of oil and filter used, if engine is stock or tuned, duration of rides etc all contribute to the longevity (or lack of) of an engine on any motorbike. Ive read a couple of peoples bikes developed this rattle at 30-35k, but continued running the bike regardless until selling on (or crashing) at 70-80k. A slightly loose chain is an annoying sound, but unless its really stretched its not going to harm anything. Put it next to a TC Harley and it will still sound considerably quieter by comparison.
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