Garage door opener and low beams all the time - Page 2 - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2015, 07:54 AM
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Another choice is to use a $10.00 handle bar mounted Weatherproof GPS case. Did that before buying the Desert Dawgs.

I know you believe that you understand what you think I said but I'm sure you realize that what you heard is not what I meant.

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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2015, 08:21 AM
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Nice job

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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 09:41 AM
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It's probably not as much of an issue as one could make it out to be, but what if you are starting to ride away and (inadvertently) hit the pass button, causing your garage door to open for the duration of your ride.

Adding the door opener mod while leaving the pass feature active is a great idea. but with a few extra components, you could probably save yourself from any accidental operation of your garage door by having two electrical conditions met before the pass button activates the door opener.

Perhaps it could be wired to only open the door IF another standard switch was activated first before pressing the pass button. You could tap off the hazard switch, requiring the hazards to be activated before pressing the pass button, but only for the secondary operation of the door opener. The high beam flash would still function as usual. Or maybe even the brake switch. Pulling the brake lever just far enough to activate the brake light, followed by the pass switch, Could be configured as the only working combination to activate the opener.

Granted, the idea might be overkill, but it could drastically reduce false or accidental activation of the garage door opener.
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 12:26 PM
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I've trained my wife to open the garage door when I pull into the driveway. This mod can be somewhat unreliable...it only works about 80% of the time.

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 12:38 PM
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I just bought one of those key fob openers, glued a magnet to the back of it and stuck it to the front mounting bolt in my saddlebag. It stays dry in there, only takes a moment to reach back into the bag and hit the button, and it's high enough in the saddlebag that nothing has ever hit it or caused a problem with it. It has the additional benefit of being cheap, requiring no wiring, and being easily removable when I sell the bike.

Sometimes the simplest solution is the best.


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post #16 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 01:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_snake1201 View Post
I've trained my wife to open the garage door when I pull into the driveway. This mod can be somewhat unreliable...it only works about 80% of the time.
+1., If I am in the dog house, it never works...

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post #17 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Relayer View Post
It's probably not as much of an issue as one could make it out to be, but what if you are starting to ride away and (inadvertently) hit the pass button, causing your garage door to open for the duration of your ride.

Adding the door opener mod while leaving the pass feature active is a great idea. but with a few extra components, you could probably save yourself from any accidental operation of your garage door by having two electrical conditions met before the pass button activates the door opener.

Perhaps it could be wired to only open the door IF another standard switch was activated first before pressing the pass button. You could tap off the hazard switch, requiring the hazards to be activated before pressing the pass button, but only for the secondary operation of the door opener. The high beam flash would still function as usual. Or maybe even the brake switch. Pulling the brake lever just far enough to activate the brake light, followed by the pass switch, Could be configured as the only working combination to activate the opener.

Granted, the idea might be overkill, but it could drastically reduce false or accidental activation of the garage door opener.
The potential is there but, as I stated above, putting the opener in the metal headlight bucket reduces the range by 2/3.
Where I can open my garage door from my side porch while leaning out the door, I cannot open it until I am 6-8 feet away with the bike opener.

Also, even if you wired it into the pass switch to keep it active, who's to say you don't accidentally hit it then, too.

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post #18 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 03:16 PM
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Also, even if you wired it into the pass switch to keep it active, who's to say you don't accidentally hit it then, too.
Actually, I was referring to a "Logical AND" form of wiring. only when two signals are activated at the same time will it trigger a third action.

Using two relays, you can tap off of the hot side of a turn signal switch for one relay coil, then tap off the hot side of the Pass button for the other relay coil. Connect their outputs in series to trigger the door opener button.

It's an uncommon combination to have a turn signal on and the Pass button pressed. Chances are, you'll be well out of range of your garage door if you do so, thus eliminating an unexpected door opening. You can press any garage door opener all you want when you're away from home and it won't affect your garage door. When you come home, hit the turn signal switch, then press the Pass switch until the door starts to open.

As for range, since you have the remote already disassembled, solder a 6" insulated wire to the antenna connector and pass it through whatever housing you mount it in. That will give you suitable range. I'd recommend mounting the opener near the air filter. The filter cover won't interfere with the signal (unless it's a chrome cover).
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post #19 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 03:26 PM
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Yes, but you just may open someone else's garage door... There is a crime alert for these openers. Not that many frequencies.

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post #20 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-08-2015, 03:55 PM
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If anyone's garage door is from 1997 or newer, then it has a rolling code with the odds of another device opening it being about 1 in 3.5 billion.
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