60W Sealed Beam On Lightbar - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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60W Sealed Beam On Lightbar

I managed to find a used OEM lightbar for a good price (few dings, etc.) and have been going through the pain of getting it installed on my C50 with a windshield. While working on the wiring, I found out it has a pair of Wagner 60 Watt sealed beams on it.

The question I have is: should I pull them out and put lower wattage bulbs in them or leave them in and just make sure I have a fuse of the appropriate wattage to support them? I haven't hear of anybody having TOO MUCH light.

To supply a little more info, the lightbar is being powered from an auxillary fuse block that is switched on and off by a relay tied into the auxillary connector in the headlight bucket. So only the power required to activate the relay goes through the aux. connector, not the power to the lights themselves.

Thanks for your expertise in helping to solve my dilemma!

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 04:54 PM
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They pull a lot of juice. I run 35's and have not had problems. Someone out there will have the answer.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCDaveD View Post
...I haven't hear of anybody having TOO MUCH light.

To supply a little more info, the lightbar is being powered from an auxillary fuse block that is switched on and off by a relay tied into the auxillary connector in the headlight bucket. So only the power required to activate the relay goes through the aux. connector, not the power to the lights themselves.

Thanks for your expertise in helping to solve my dilemma!
I run a pair of driving lights that are 35 watts each and, when adjusted correctly, they throw off plenty of light for my needs. My opinion is that they make my bike much more visible. I have had very few (like maybe two) cars pull out in front of me in the past year. And I suspect those two people were the type of drivers who would not have seen an oncoming locomotive.

Also, my two 35-watters (combined with my headlight) light up the road at night as brightly, as far and as wide as I need. Without the driving lights, the stock halogen headlight alone is quite anemic to the point of being unsafe...again, in my opinion.

As to your question (which, I beg to differ, does not rise to the level of a dilemma!), 60-watt bulbs can't be bad, unless they draw too much current from your charging system and affect the operation of your ignition system and/or onboard computer and/or fuel pump and/or other lights. 120 watts of additional lighting at 12 volts draws 10 more amps of current. I'm pretty sure the C50's system can handle that extra 10 amps, as long as you're not also trying to drive several hundred watts of add-on audio amplification!

And, by your description, you have wired everything correctly by using the relay to deliver the juice to your lights via separate - and hopefully correctly sized - wiring.

Be prepared, though. If you ride at night, you will undoubtedly get more than a few oncoming drivers flashing their brights at you. Unless, or course, you have those driving lights aimed down at the ground no farther ahead than your stock headlight's low beam. Which kind of defeats the two main purposes of the driving lights: (1) make you more visible during the day, and (2) light up the road better at night.

For Skrapiron's much more expert opinion, see post #3 in this thread: https://www.volusiariders.com/54-gene...-lighting.html

2012 C50T

Last edited by scottbass; 04-09-2015 at 05:19 PM.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 08:45 PM
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Are you certain they are 60w? seems like a lot but heck I would keep them in for more light, you have them wired correctly so you should be fine unless you start adding a bunch more electrical items.


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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Yep, the back of the light has 60W 28V Wagner 4750 printed on it. An internet seach confirmed the wattage and voltage. So far I only have a Bad Boy horn on the auxillary fuse block, and my future plans are to add a GPS, ITouch MP3 player and maybe some heated gloves. No radio, speakers and/or amp, multi unit display lighting or stuff like that.

Using 14 AWG Power and Ground leads, which is heavier than the wiring the lightbar came with.

After reading Skrapiron's post, I'm going to spring for some new, 35 watt bulbs as I feel the (2) 60 watt units will be pulling too many amps when you look at the overall available wattage. I'd rather be safe here than run the risk of abusing the charging system. According to Suzuki, I still need to bring my bike in for the rectifier recall. Evidently the original owner did not know about the recall. Scott, thank you very much for providing that link. I learned a lot in that post.

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Last edited by NCDaveD; 04-09-2015 at 09:42 PM. Reason: Added plans for lights
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 09:56 PM
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If they're 60 watt @ 28 volts, they'll be 30+/- @ 12 volts
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 11:23 PM
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60 Watt 28 volts, I wouldn't think they would shine really bright. A more yellow light. I have 35 watt Grote lights and these Par 36 # 7400 lights are bright. I have my spots aimed to be at the top line of the headlight on low beam. I do get a few that flash their lights at me. They need to be at the threshold of almost annoy to be effective.
PHOTOMETRIC CHARACTERISTICS Beam Spread - Horizontal 12.0 - 10.0 % Beam Spread - Vertical 5.0 - 10.0 % Max. Beam Candlepower (MBCP) (MAX) 33000 ELECTRICAL CHARACTERISTICS Wattage (NOM) 35.0 Voltage (NOM) 12.8

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-09-2015, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Unidude, I never looked at it like that. Now that my curiosity is up, I found Wagner's light specifications. The 4705 light is rated at 2.14 amps and 5000 candlepower with a 800 hour lifespan. Their 4411 (which is what most OEM are upgraded to) are rated at 2.73 amps and 2500 candlepower with a 300 hour lifespan (all lab ratings).

The 2.14 amps means a little under 26 watts at 12 volts (as you said). Just to prove this to myself, I'll set them up tomorrow with my ammeter and see what they do.

If they only draw a total of less than 5 amps, I'll leave them be.

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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-10-2015, 10:37 AM
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Napa 4411 sealed beam lights. About 8.00 each 35 watt

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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-10-2015, 03:51 PM Thread Starter
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This is too funny. I hooked them up and they were pulling just under 4 amps. One was brighter than the other, so I pulled the other light out of it's housing. Imagine my surprise when I found the other light was an OEM incandescent bulb!

So I went to NAPA and bought a 4411 to replace the OEM. It was a little over $11 (with tax). Replaced the OEM with it, hooked them back up and had a steady 5 amp draw for the pair.

Now if I can only get that (*^#^*)#^ cover screw to grab hold, I would have it made.

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