The R/R (Rectifier) Repositioning Mod (Suzuki C90) - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 11:17 PM Thread Starter
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The R/R (Rectifier) Repositioning Mod (Suzuki C90)

I'm not sure if anyone else has tackled this mod or not, but I had a go at it this weekend. It's the R/R (Rectifier/Regulator) repositioning mod, which is theorized to strengthen the regulation and charge of the battery by moving it from the under-casing on the bike to the front in order to provide better cooling and air flow.

I decided to try this after having my stator replaced while I was on a long distance road trip several months ago. Because of my situation, I resorted to taking my bike to a Suzuki dealership to have the stator fixed. The final tally was over $700.00 in parts and labor...I couldn't believe it. Had this happened closer to my home, I could have replaced the stator all by myself for about $100.00 and thirty minutes of my time.

Anyway, the stator has seemingly been charging the battery just fine up until a few days ago, which is when it stranded me about 70 miles from my home. I had a guy help me jump start my battery with his car, and I was able to make it back home without further incident.

The next day, I began measuring voltages to see what was going on. The charge to the battery was around 12.5v at 5,000 rpm and 11.7v at idle, so I began to tear her down. I inspected the wiring to the stator and suspected that because the stator and battery were still fairly new, the regulator/rectifier might be the culprit. I gave it a visual inspection, and it appeared to be in decent shape (of course, how could I tell by simply looking at it).

Regardless, I'd heard of this mod and thought that I had nothing to lose by at least trying it. After several hours of cutting, splicing, soldering, and rewiring (the last hour of work actually had me debating whether or not I should have attempted this in the first place), I finally completed the work and got to a point where I could actually test everything out.

My first attempt was an utter failure. Everything came alive when I turned the key and the "on" switch, but then nothing happened when I went to fire it up. My gut had me convinced that I shouldn't have used 10 gauge wire and that it was probably causing to much resistance.

Nonetheless, I went to the battery and noticed that the negative lead bolt was a little loose, so I quickly tightened it up. I then went back and tried to start the bike, and she instantly came alive. I kept the throttle lock on for several minutes and had her idling at about 3,000 rpm.

Finally, I shut her down and attempted to restart it, and the bike fired up with more power than I've seen since I bought her back in '06. I'm not advocating that anyone try this modification, as I'm simply sharing my experiences with you. Regardless, I've put a couple hundred miles on the bike since the modification, and I'm planning a 2K mile trip in September. I'll keep you posted.

Just out of curiosity, has anyone else performed this mod, and what were the longer-term results like? I'm hoping that I've fixed the electrical issues for good, but only time will tell. Also, I don't think that moving the R/R to the front of the bike has improved its looks any...Has anyone done anything creative to the R/R that looks even better then simply affixing it to the battery box (e.g. chrome, a different location, etc...).



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Last edited by Cole; 08-30-2011 at 11:22 PM.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 12:23 AM
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Got to luv it when a plan comes together!! Good for you get it done.
Don't have a C90 but if I did, I think I'd do the same as it makes sense. Stator problems seem to be common with the C90 but I've heard it's usually from over loading the electrical system.
What a great tutorial as well.



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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 07:50 AM
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The stator is a common problem for basically ALL model C90. They seem to only last 15,000 miles or so. Suzuki has 'redesigned' them several times, but the results are still the same.

I know of one owner who moved the rectifier out to the frame. I don't know whether it actually helped, because he has put 5 stators in his bike in the last 90,000 miles. It is a running joke. He can do it in a parking lot, in under 30 minutes any more.

Hopefully, your mod fixes the problem and it gives you years of trouble free riding...

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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 09:34 AM
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but unfortunately he doesn't post here anymore.



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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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This is just a quick update about this modification. After 400 miles and a solid week of monitoring the results of this project, I had a little time this afternoon to conduct some basic diagnostic tests on it. The results are very satisfactory! ~12.66v @ 1000rpm (warm idle) and ~13.20v @ 4,000rpm. So far, the modifications seem to be solid. You can click here to see a boring video of the test results (feel free to leave a comment or press 'like' if you like it). I'll post more results after my 2K mile ride, but so far, so good. You can plainly hear how quickly she fires up in this video. Realistically, I think that a little more tweaking with my wiring job can yield even better results...possibly even high 12v's at warm idle. This definitely isn't the same sluggish starting bike that it was a week ago...she's producing and holding her charge!



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Last edited by Cole; 09-03-2011 at 11:25 PM.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 09:19 PM
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I'm no expert, so this is just a question to confirm or debunk what I heard from an old mechanic. He said most stator issues were due to people not using a trickle charger. Is this not the case?

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 10:40 PM Thread Starter
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I'm no expert either, but I own a Battery Tender Plus and have used it on my '05 Suzuki C90 everyday for the past few years. However, a couple of months ago my stator fried on me, out of the blue, while I was traveling across Missouri. Up until that point, I'd been all over the U.S. with her with absolutely no issues at all. I don't know what makes them go bad, but the common denominator seems to be that they often do somewhere around the 14,000 to 16,000 mile mark. Honestly, I really don't think it could have anything to do with the use or absence of a trickle charger. After all, they both try to accomplish the same things, granted in different ways, but they really don't have any physical interaction with one another whatsoever.

Of course, I guess I could see a case where an extremely casual rider might not even know that his stator went bad because he's always operating in very small stints off of a fully charged battery that was juiced up by a trickle charger. Perhaps this is the type of situation your mechanic is referring to? To address this as a viable possibility, when my stator fried out in Missouri I actually had my Battery Tender along with me, and I was able to keep the battery adequately juiced up for short rides (1.5 hours, or less) until the new stator was shipped to the Suzuki dealership. However, this isn't a realistic, long-term option for a serious rider like myself.

Regardless, the mod I'm speaking about in this excerpt is actually for the rectifier/regulator (r/r) and not the stator. The rectifier is what receives juice from the the stator and regulates/rectifies it into a voltage that the battery can handle, bleeding off any excess to a ground. In most situations, I can see the rectifier going bad when it gets too hot, which is why I relocated mine to the front of the battery box. Now it receives cool, fresh air.



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Last edited by Cole; 09-04-2011 at 12:08 AM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-03-2011, 10:59 PM
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You know, you make a great case of a casual rider not even knowing the stator is going out because of the trickle charge with short rides.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cole View Post
Honestly, I'm no expert either, but I own a Battery Tender Plus and have used it on my '05 Suzuki C90 everyday for the past few years. However, a couple of months ago my stator fried on me while I was traveling across Missouri...out of the blue. Up until that point, I'd been all over the U.S. with her with absolutely no issues at all. I don't know what makes them go bad, but the common denominator seems to be that they often go bad around 14,000 - 16,000 miles. Honestly, I really don't think it could have anything to do with the use or absence of a trickle charger? Of course, I guess I could see a case where a very casual rider might not even know that his stator went bad because he's always operating in small stints off of a fully charged battery that was charged up by a trickle charger? However, this doesn't seem very realistic.

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 09-21-2011, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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Just to recap and follow up, I arrived back on Saturday from a 2,000 mile journey on my '05 C90. A few weeks ago, I had to have my bike jump started because the battery wouldn't hold a charge. I had the stator and battery replaced just a couple of months ago, so I quickly ruled them out (I also performed some light diagnostic tests on them to verify they were still in operable condition). Anyway, after reading some information on the Internet about the problem with the rectifier/regulator (R/R) once it heats up, I decided to perform the R/R repositioning modification. The results are amazing so far. I took my voltmeter with me on my trip and would occasionally check the voltage at the battery when I stopped off to eat or get fuel, and the bike consistently generated between ~14.0v - 14.25v at warm idle. I had absolutely no issues with the charging system whatsoever, so I'm hoping that I finally have this issue resolved for at least a little while.



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Last edited by Cole; 09-21-2011 at 01:15 AM.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 08-04-2012, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Just as a follow-up to this thread. It's over a year later, and the results of this C90 mod are still amazing! The only enhancement I've made are two additional grounding units, which I purchased at Home Depot, that I've bolted on to the frame of the bike. I attached the first one to the lower-rear portion of the frame and attached the stator ground wire to it. I attached the second one to the frame, just above the rear master cylinder reservoir, and I have the two regulator/rectifier grounds hooked up to it. Since doing this, my Argus Battery Bug voltmeter registers 14.2 - 14.6 volts while riding at upper speeds and 14.6 - 14.8 volts at warm idle. It's just my opinion, but I don't think that it can get much better than this.



The Wheels on My Bike Keep on Turning; I Don't Know Where I'll Be Tomorrow.
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