Two Red Ryders

Don't really know your bike but wouldn't something like Mighty Putty an epoxy type repair material be capable of working as a fork stop. Although my concern would be the actual frame may be damaged not just the turning stop.

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BIGBIRD123

Glad you are alright...I definitely know your stress...

BB

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tgabriel

Identical to the wreck I had Sept 4th, right down to the Honda part! Nothing broken here either, just a bunchof soft tissue damage.

Glad you came out okay, get well soon.

T

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dfinitlydisturbd

On the fork or on the frame? Is the rest of the frame straight?

isobig

Glad you came out without anything broken. Wish I was that lucky with my accident and I didn't even hit anything!

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'01 VL800 Red/Blk - totalled 6/17/2012

dfinitlydisturbd

Again.
If it is the tab on the frame itself it is weldable by any reasonably competent welder. For those inclined to argue that it might be chromoly, it is not all that difficult to weld, use the right wire, don't try to do it in one pass (to keep heat input to surrounding areas low) and it will be fine. It is however recommended that this be TIG'd though FCAW or MIG would also be suitable. The key is keep the heat to the surrounding areas to a minimum. Chromoly gets brittle just like any other metal when overheated and then cooled too quickly.
If it's the tab on the lower tri-clamp it's a simple matter of getting another lower.
But that all hinges on what condition the rest of the frame is in.

dfinitlydisturbd

some helpful tips....
Preheat is not needed for anything under .0.120″ thick… but preheating will not hurt if you decide you want to do it. A preheat of only 100 deg F will drive off moisture, and ensure that the cooling rate is slow enough.

Weld just a little bit slower than normal… if oxy-acetylene welding was so successful for so many years, it makes sense to slow things down a bit when tig welding 4130.

Don’t weld where there is a breeze or draft that could speed up cooling of the weld… and never speed cool welds.

Use a machine with high freq start capability to avoid those arc strikes.

Use er70s-2 rod, not 4130 rod. It’s common practice to use a filler metal that is slightly undermatched to the parent metal as it is more forgiving.

Taper amperage very slowly at the end of a weld to avoid crater cracks.
33 pulses per second, 33 percent pulse time, and 33 percent background current is a great starting point for using high speed pulse current on 4130 chromoly.

For closure welds (welds that are sealing up an air cavity) make sure to leave the last area in a place that is easy to get to. When pressure builds, it will blow your weld out.
If you can’t see it, you can’t weld it. Use a cheater if you need it.. or get some reading glasses. A cheater lens is also called a diopter.

Always focus the arc on the thicker piece.

Cleaning the metal makes a difference

Use aluminum foil as an argon dam. It works.

Of course this is all dependent on whether Suzuki is actually using Chromoly or not. I'm inclined to believe like most companies they are of the mind carbon steel is cheaper, requires less attention, can be welded much more reliably using the much cheaper MIG process with robots Vs paying skilled welders to spend hours TIG welding frames. Safe bet you could attack it with E110 flux cored (110,000 psi tensile strength) wire with sound results. But with the uncertainty of the frame material a E80S-D2 wire or similar will work as well.

dohebert

Sorry about your bike; glad to hear you weren't hurt. Ride safe, everybody!

AxorrAEB

Well, both the insurance company and the shops I spoke with about it all felt it was best to just total the bike. They felt the tab was indicative of further damage to the front of the frame.

The GOOD news is that Progressive paid us only slightly less than we originally paid for it! Plus, they paid us full retail value for all of the add-ons we had on the motorcycle. I have been quite impressed with all they have done for us!

Now, I just need to get through all of the doctor's visits, and get off the meds... Soon. It shall be soon.

Mr. Efficiency

I agree, fork stops are generally considered unrepairable. If you bust a hunk off the frame there is damage underneath. Ive seen a guy weld one back on but it was never ridden on road again and the frame cracked soon after.

A tweaked frame is not hard to do and once done, the bike is finished. Frames should never be rewelded except at the old weld points.

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