Final drive oil leak - Page 2 - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #11 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 06:07 AM
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? If you pull the axle then could you remove the final drive with messing with all the brake stuff???
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post #12 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 07:32 AM
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There is a breather hole at the top of the drive housing. If it is plugged, it will cause pressure in the drive that will cause the seal to leak.

If the drive is overfilled, oil can be swept up to the breather and run down creating the appearance of a leaky seal.

The only other option is a worn or damaged seal. In this application, the arrangement of the seal in the housing make it quite difficult to damage when the wheel is removed or installed.

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post #13 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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There is a lot of good info in the threads linked by T-Man403, and of course things to watch out for, as seen in LadyRiders thread. Doing the work myself doesn't scare me much, but I'm not sure I have all the needed tools. First off, I don't have a lift. I was looking into making the cheap wood lift, as found all over the internet and this site. But I'm not sure if it will get the back wheel off the ground enough to remove it.
From pictures in previous threads, it appears that my rear drive seal is leaking from the back side between the drive and the hub. I will check the breather hole at the top, like Gene suggested. If it is just the rear seal, it sounds pretty simple. My fear is that once I get it apart, I will find more than I was expecting. I am not quite prepared to disassemble the driveshaft, as I don't have an impact wrench or even a vise to get it apart. I am sure my splines will need some grease, also. I just hope I don't find what LadyRider did! I suppose I could always just take the drive down to the shop and let the pros take it from there, but I like to be able to do these things on my own. Much more satisfaction knowing how everything was done.
I want to rip it apart right away, but I have to solve the lift issue first. Can't justify the $80-100 on a lift right now-even though I know it will become an essential part of my workshop.

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post #14 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dannyrider13 View Post
There is a lot of good info in the threads linked by T-Man403, and of course things to watch out for, as seen in LadyRiders thread. Doing the work myself doesn't scare me much, but I'm not sure I have all the needed tools. First off, I don't have a lift. I was looking into making the cheap wood lift, as found all over the internet and this site. But I'm not sure if it will get the back wheel off the ground enough to remove it.
From pictures in previous threads, it appears that my rear drive seal is leaking from the back side between the drive and the hub. I will check the breather hole at the top, like Gene suggested. If it is just the rear seal, it sounds pretty simple. My fear is that once I get it apart, I will find more than I was expecting. I am not quite prepared to disassemble the driveshaft, as I don't have an impact wrench or even a vise to get it apart. I am sure my splines will need some grease, also. I just hope I don't find what LadyRider did! I suppose I could always just take the drive down to the shop and let the pros take it from there, but I like to be able to do these things on my own. Much more satisfaction knowing how everything was done.
I want to rip it apart right away, but I have to solve the lift issue first. Can't justify the $80-100 on a lift right now-even though I know it will become an essential part of my workshop.
If you have the money to consider taking it to the 'pros', then why not pay yourself to do the job by buying the tools needed to do the job yourself?

So long as the cost of the tools don't exceed the cost of the 'pros' labor you are money ahead because you keep the value of the tools to enjoy another time.

Even if the cost of the tools are slightly higher, consider the amortized cost over time compared to the money you save by doing the work yourself.

Hope this helps.....

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>>
06 C50C (Special Edition)
lowered 2" --- Metzler 880 www's
OEM lightbar --- Cobra EG --- Sagebrush chaps
DJ drive --- mustang 3 piece seat --- CW Tach
Vista Cruise --- 4X1.5 pullback risers

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post #15 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 12:03 PM
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$80 for the lift is going to be the cost the shop/dealer will charge you (if not more ) just to remove the back wheel and final drive. The removal of the rear wheel and drive is quite straight forward with metric wrenches and sockets. While you are at it you might as well check the brake shoes etc. Even taking your wheels in for tire changes as opposed to taking the bike in will recover the cost of the lift.
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post #16 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 09:27 PM
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Yup looks like the inner main seal- OR the bolts around the perimeter at the back of the drive are loose..
Time to pull it and have a look..

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post #17 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 09:44 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone know if the local dealers carry the seal, or do I have to order it? Also, I've read about using Suzuki Bond on the mating surfaces of the backplate. What is this and is there an alternate substitute?

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post #18 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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I was looking into making one of those inexpensive bike lifts, as seen on a thread on this site. It was supposedly $25. So, I went to Home Depot and began gathering the lumber, galvanized pipe, fitting and lag bolts, oh and a couple hole saw drill bits needed to perform the build. It tallied to almost $50. i guess the cost of materials have gone up since that was posted. a little bit more and I can have a decent lift that I can be sure the rear whelp will come off the ground. I guess I'll start looking for a lift for this weekend.

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post #19 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 10:46 PM
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Go with a decent lift . I read the post on the home made lift and it wont get your rear wheel high enough to remove. Lifts come on sale all the time. In Canada we get them on sale frequently at around $70. I believe they are similar to your Torin Big Red lift or the yellow one at Harbour Freight.

It is hit and miss with dealers up here for the large seal . Some stock them but most don't . I would call them in advance.

As far as the Suzuki bond , I and many others have sucessfully substituted it with Permatec RTV. Ensure you only apply it as shown in the service manual and do not plug the vent holes.

Last edited by Moto-Suzzi G50; 01-02-2013 at 10:56 PM.
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post #20 of 37 (permalink) Old 01-02-2013, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dannyrider13 View Post
Does anyone know if the local dealers carry the seal, or do I have to order it? Also, I've read about using Suzuki Bond on the mating surfaces of the backplate. What is this and is there an alternate substitute?
I had to order my seal but it only took a couple days for them to receive it.

Get a lift like this ........ comes in handy for cleaning the bike as well.
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