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#1 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
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This is a nightmare help please! I have an '04 Volusia VL800 Limited that I bought in March '11. Ran great for about 1,000 miles. THEN...bike began acting like it wasn't getting fuel for a couple moments followed by the engine running normal. After getting home, let it cool and then started it again. Engine barely runs with choke on & will not run at all with choke off. I changed the spark plugs (which were fouled) and ran Seafoam through it. No help. Changed the fuel in the tank...no better. It is now in the 3rd shop (last 2 have been dealerships). The carb has been cleaned, the fuel system is good to go plus lots of other stuff. The current dealership has a call in to the Suzuki tech line to help. I've been reading the other threads on help too. Can it really be this difficult? Does anybody know what may be causing this? Thanks very much!
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior VR Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
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Welcome to the site, pull up a chair, the beer is in the fridge.....
The fuel valve is operated by a vacuum it sounds like you are loosing vacuum, crack in a vac hose???? There is also a screen inside the tank that may be clogged but I would assume that has been checked.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Vacuum operated fuel pump going bad or low vac pulses to pump are another possibility.
I had similar symptoms on the bike, it was a clogged pilot in the carb, does yours run godd 1/4 plus throttle? mine did. Last edited by Motiv; 10-04-2011 at 12:53 PM. Reason: spelling |
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| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Motiv For This Useful Post: | DTRAIN (10-10-2011), matt drumm (10-06-2011) |
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#5 (permalink) |
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It's not a fuel system issues, it's the ignition coil.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Mr. Efficiency For This Useful Post: | matt drumm (10-06-2011) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Very likely. Test by pulling the plug wire to the front cylinder, and see if the engine will still fire when cold-choked. If it does, do the same to be back cylinder. If it is an ignition coil, engine performance will be constant when you plug/unplug the bad coil.
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#7 (permalink) |
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That test might not even work. A bad coil vs. a completely failed coil. I have seen this a lot. An unfindable problem, replace the coils. Often times the coil is just not delivering enough voltage but is providing enough. Try the test above, if it work OK... still replace the coils.
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Mr. Efficiency For This Useful Post: | iMark (10-05-2012) |
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#8 (permalink) |
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I've seen it both ways. But in this case, if it was a gradual decline, I wouldn't expect the the sudden failure described in the OP. It would be pretty weird for both coils to die at the same time.
You can also do a peak voltage test and a resistance test on the coils. Clymer says >200V, 2-6 ohms on the primary, 15k-30k ohms on the secondary. That can be a real pita to do though.
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'06 Suzuki Boulevard C50 '92 Suzuki GS500E (sold) |
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#9 (permalink) |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Motiv For This Useful Post: | marathonmedical (10-04-2011) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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How many miles are on the bike? Are the plugs black and sooty or oily? What was the previous owners maintenance records like? Did anyone do a compression leak down test?
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