What exactly is wrong with the Cam Chain Tensioner Assemblies? - Page 3 - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #21 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 04:44 AM
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Chains stretch, there is little you can do about it. Worst case is that your timing will go out with an excessively stretched chain.

It's not a visible thing, almost immeasurable wear in each chain link pin, multiply it by number of pins in the chain and you end up with a longer chain. You don't really notice until you compare the length of the new chain with the old one.

The old Honda V4's were shockers for it, I would replace the cam chains every 20000 kms on my VF750.

An indication was aligning the timing marks on the overhead cam sprockets, if the were slightly out when everything else was correct then the chain was stretched.


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post #22 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-10-2013, 12:46 PM
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Smile How to make cam chains last longer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trent View Post
bump. How'd it go?

So, how do you prevent the cam chain from stretching, low mileage excluded?
After looking at the chains, They are link plate chains, much higher automotive style and quality than old fashion bicycle chain like they used to use, There should be no reason the chains should wear out any sooner than 60 - 75 k miles if oil is changed often. Maybe every 2 -3 k miles. Thoughts of an old auto mechanic
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post #23 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 12:05 AM
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Looks like this one's been asleep awhile, so I'll wake it up.....

I'm sittin at 41k on my 2001 Volusia. I just changed the oil 4 days ago from Castrol 4T 10W-40 with alittle Lucas Motorcycle Oil Stabilizer, to Lucas semi-synthetic 10W-40 motorcycle oil with "clutch saving technologies". The clutch is definitely grabbing better, but the engine runs noisier. I swear by the Oil Stabilizer in every engine. But it felt like it was letting the clutch slip under heavy load. Surely the stabilizer was not what was keeping it quiet (?)

I've gone about 150 miles since the change, and now I've got a rhythmic tick from the rear jug, BUT only at idle. Alittle throttle, and the tick isnt anymore noticeable than the rest of the engine.

I just reset the overhead with gauges around 35k. I doubt the lash is off, but it's possible. Could this be the chain or tensioner I'm hearing?

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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-08-2016, 10:40 AM
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If You don't own a stethoscope, then use an extra long screwdriver to locate the motor noise.
Simply place the tip of the screwdriver in various places on the powerplant, and your ear against the screwdriver's handle.
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post #25 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-11-2016, 03:41 PM
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I have c50 with 10k Mi on it and I believe I have a lose cam chain already. Is there a way to tell if it's chain or valve adj without checking the valve clearances. I realize that's the best way, but is there a quick way to tell by sound?
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post #26 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 10:28 PM
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Is this a dead thread or a sight?
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post #27 of 34 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 10:51 PM
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Is this a dead thread or a sight?
It is an old thread by that wouldn't be the reason you didn't get a response- it slipped by being seen when anyone was able to answer and then went off the ''radar'' so to speak...

A stethoscope will give you the best indication and even better after a well done valve adjustment.

Just be sure that you don't turn the engine backwards when rotating it by hand.

The correct direction is so the crankshaft is rotating towards the front of the engine at the top of its travel.... Counter clockwise from the left side and clockwise from the right side of the engine.

Some of the manuals have the rotation wrong.

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post #28 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-03-2016, 04:52 PM
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i am about to attempt to fix this chain problem, can anyone give me a list of everything i need to complete this task? i would also like to know what i am to torque and to what spec?
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post #29 of 34 (permalink) Old 06-09-2016, 09:12 PM
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I am doing this right now as well. You definitely need the factory manual for this task or the clymer (I have both, but mostly reference the factory manual). I am at the point where I need to re-install the generator...but I can tell you this:

The special tools.

09930-33730: Rotor remover
For the clutch tool, I went with an EBC CT-029 (worked great)
I used steel zip ties for tensioner unlock tools...they are flexible and the heads fit in perfectly to keep to tensioners in the locked position when fully depressed.

Not so special...but may not have:

27mm deep socket
30mm offset wrench

Everything else is pretty common.

I have some beam torque wrenches and my 3ft breaker bar has been a necessity. Had borrow an impact wrench to get the rotor off. Was much fun in a sweaty angry way...

Last edited by bmc2k7; 06-09-2016 at 09:14 PM.
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post #30 of 34 (permalink) Old 08-22-2016, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmc2k7 View Post
I am doing this right now as well. You definitely need the factory manual for this task or the clymer (I have both, but mostly reference the factory manual). I am at the point where I need to re-install the generator...but I can tell you this:

The special tools.

09930-33730: Rotor remover
For the clutch tool, I went with an EBC CT-029 (worked great)
I used steel zip ties for tensioner unlock tools...they are flexible and the heads fit in perfectly to keep to tensioners in the locked position when fully depressed.

Not so special...but may not have:

27mm deep socket
30mm offset wrench

Everything else is pretty common.

I have some beam torque wrenches and my 3ft breaker bar has been a necessity. Had borrow an impact wrench to get the rotor off. Was much fun in a sweaty angry way...
What was the mileage on your bike?
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