ion

Yes, I know this is just a matter of opinions but I need help deciding.
Long story short. I commute 60 miles every day all year around. Change oil every 2500 to 3k mls which ends up being every 6 to 8 weeks.
Just changed the drive which has reduced my pipes volume significantly, and now I feel like I have a sawing machine seating on my tank as I ride.
I first thought it was the valves that needed adjustment. I adjusted them 3k miles ago but I still checked them and they are fine. Then I realized that I changed the oil brand I normally use.
I normally use the honda 10W 40 but last time they were out of it on my store and grabbed the other one they have (don’t' remember the brand).
I keep on reading about synthetic oil and how some use it and recommend it and others think it is a mistake.
The point is that if different oil could have the potential of reducing the engine noise w/out having any long term negative impact, I want to go that route.

So I open the floor. Suggestions?

dfinitlydisturbd

YUP! When you reduce mechanical noise you reduce wear. Mechanical noise is parts banging together, banging parts cause damage (wear) to each other. If you can, get a bottle of Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer (it's kinda expensive but one big bottle is good for several oil changes) and add 1/10 gallon (380ml) to your oil. She'll quiet right up. Don't add more though as it will cause your clutch to slip if added excessively beyond a 10% mix. My clutch hasn't had any problems but the label warns that it is a possibility. Some folks here would beg to differ but I'd recommend a heavier oil as well Suzuki claims up to 20W50 is suitable. I use 20W50 with the Lucas and all I hear from my engine is the exhaust (which is bone stock).

As far as synthetic VS non, to me the synthetic seams to hold up better between changes....and I'm sure in a post below someone will say exactly the opposite...that one's gonna have to be yours to sort out.

Bullsco

Hi,, I used the Suzuki oil for about the first season, the regular "dino" stuff. My cooling fan was coming on very frequently (checked rad fluid etc - all was good) as my motor was just running hot. I had not made any modifications to the bike and thought something was wrong so I made some inquiries to a few guys whom I trust that basically grew up eating, breathing and sleeping bikes. Then I took about 4 months to read everything I could on oil, evaluate and went to the full synth oil. My local Napa had a choice of a few brands so there was some more research and decided to go with the Royal Purple. I even went so far as to have email correspondence with the manger (of the time) of R/P R&D - Operations regarding the JASO certification. I finaly kept with the R/P and change it and the filter within every 5000km (or 3100 miles). I have been very fortunate as I currently have almost 90000kms or (56000 mi) and not a lick of trouble with the entire bike. The fan has come on about three times (= lower operating temp) in about 4.5 years since switching to full synth. I now use nothing else but full synth in my other vehicles, sleds, quads, outboard motors and even chainsaws.

Hope this helps.

__________________
06 C50, Royal Purple full synth, K&N filter, 82000 kms (51000 mi), NC shield & bags. MC sissy bar, pillion seat levelled, rear peg swap, reversed saddlebag mounts.

"Live, don't just exist, learn from your mistakes and those of others, don't just go through the motions of life for it's too short and precious. Everything you do, embrace it, live it to the fullest extent." ... anonymous

dfinitlydisturbd

Almost forgot...if you put car oil in there make sure it does not have friction modifiers or say high efficiency/high mileage engines on the label....very not good for wet clutches.

ion

Nice guys! Great info there! Thanks! The Royal Purple looks awesome, but the price tag is kind of heavy! I guess you get what you pay for right?

ion

Oh, one more question. For winter riding, 20w 50 ok? Or should I stick to the 10w 40?


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dfinitlydisturbd

Not sure I buy into the whole "performance" oil hype I don't totally cheap out either but anything over 8 or $9 a quart is too much. I use 20W50 Mobile 1 V-Twin full synthetic and Lucas comes out just as thick and slick as it went in only darker. Wish they offered it in straight weight (wtf happened to straight weight oil anyway?) used to feed everything straight 40 weight, can't find it anymore or any other single weight designated oil for that matter.

dfinitlydisturbd

I run the same year round. Makes for a little harder starting if your bike lives outside but once warmed up the bike won't know the difference. You can go heavier than the factory recommends anywhere with no issues (other than hard starting if it's too cold) but especially in hot environments you never want to go lighter (ie. 5w50, 5w40, 10w30 etc.).

DCinCT

from a guy who is anal about oil changes...strong believer to keeping fresh oil in the motor...especially for the few minutes it takes and what it cost to do it yourself...changed mine between 2k and 2.5 k miles for the life of my 04 volusia that lasted 87k before putting bike to rest. Tried all the oils and while mobil 1 synthetic was probably the best I found...because I changed it as often as i did, felt using syn's was overkill. Settled on Castrol GTX when bike hit in the 30's and used nothing else for the life of that mc... Bought my present c90 with 15k and have used nothing but the gtx since owning the bike...now at 44k with no issues. Good luck

__________________
Whats the big hurry...slow down and enjoy the ride!

mdhyre

Do you mean regular Castrol GTX for car or Castrol V Twin Syn? I've been curious about the Castrol V Twin oil. I used Mobile1 V Twin now but it is a bit pricy.