Drawing for C90 Drive Mod Check - Page 3 - Suzuki Volusia Forums : Intruder Volusia and Boulevard Forum
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post #21 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 02:13 PM
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If you are going to mod it for the Final Drive Mod, then yes, this is what has to be done to the C90 shaft to use it for now on the mod...

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post #22 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver Buffalo Rider View Post
I have been reading a lot about the Mod of adding a C90 drive to a C50.
A lot of threads to read and go thought but I think I got all the info to make drawing of the parts that need to be modified or made. I'm going to post the drawing and see if any of you Volusia riders would double check me on my drawings.
One drawing is of the shaft mod.
One is of the Bushing.
One is of the spacer.
Be careful about dimensioning from BOTh ends on this sort of drawing. The critical dimensions are overall length and the length to the shoulder where the driveshaft enters the U joint.
The correct Dim is 15 3/4 to the shoulder. I have a drawing on a sticky of a C50 shaft and how that's machined so the two should correllate.
Just an FYI to really watch the overall length and to the shoulder!
Cheers and enjoy the drive!

It ain't getting what you want..It's wanting what u got!
**I am a victim of Mod- Mania The bike itself was the cheap part!!!!!...**

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post #23 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 03:28 PM
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Dave,
Assuming my calculations are correct, the difference in the shaft drawing in this thread and the one you have created are as such:
Overall length - this drawing is .25" shorter
Length to shoulder - this drawing is .052" shorter

Are these within tolerance enough that it shouldn't make a difference one way or another or is the overall length a critical measurement as well? I suspect that it is not.
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post #24 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 03:36 PM
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I am not speaking for Dave (Because with his age and mine as a comparison...he's still wet behind the ears...) but I have a hard time seeing .052" much less measuring it but with the variable compression of the shaft spring, I see this as being of no consequence...JMO

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post #25 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 03:46 PM
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Thanks BB. I had assumed that particular measurement was within spec as well.
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post #26 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 04:11 PM
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Disclaimer:
I mean I don't claim to be the expert but if'n it was mine, I'd be happy within that range...there are people that deal with that being a "Grand Canyon" type discrepancy...

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post #27 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 04:15 PM
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Travis- The shoulder plus minus 1/16 is not a worry. but the length of spline needs only to be 1.2 -more than that and it sticks past the splines end and into the U joint- See the drawing on the U joint to driveshaft. The .098 is taken off to make sure no interference with the inside spider of the u joint.
I suspect others have not machined the length but I would! to make sure I would make the spline part that goes into the U joint 1.2" only as the splined portion of the C50/M50 U joint is only 1.08" long total.
Lots of differing info on this- But I did spent quite a while and triple checked all the dims while doing those drawings.
Cheers,

It ain't getting what you want..It's wanting what u got!
**I am a victim of Mod- Mania The bike itself was the cheap part!!!!!...**

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post #28 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 04:16 PM
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At one time we were trimming 2mm off the u-joint end of the driveshaft splines.

Theory being, if the shoulder get's moved back .200, the splines insert into the joint .200 further and would that conflict with the knuckle action of the joint.

After looking closer, I don't think that 2mm is critical and it does effect "overall lenth" in the drawing.

The critical measurement is from the coupler end of the drive shaft to the shoulder,...15.75 inch, achieve that, and you've got it.

When I want to read a really good Harley thread, I just turn to VolusiaRiders.com
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post #29 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 04:25 PM
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Thanks again. I'm trying to figure out all my options. I bought a VL1500 Final Drive and drive shaft on e-bay today. I have e-mailed Dave Hillis to get pricing info for the shaft chop/weld, but I also have a friend who has a fabrication shop whom I believe could do the work as well. I just wanted to provide the most straightfoward drawing for him to use in the modification. I may take the drawing depcting the chop/weld and demention it with the measurements from Dave's C50 'shaft mod to get most clear version of what I need.

Is the length of the splines a critical measurement? Again, I would assume not but I could be wrong.
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post #30 of 47 (permalink) Old 06-21-2012, 04:44 PM
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Hi travis- Its not critical ..its just the splines on the Ujoint are only 1 082 long so anything more than 1.2 on the driveshaft splines (accounting for a chamfer on the splines) will stick out the end of the Ujoint splines and into the area where the spider resides. I do not KNOW catagorically if it interferes, but the extra spline does nothing for you it just sticks past the Ujoints splines- Personally I would trim it off..
Thats me tho! I am a non certified machinist- Spent many years machining since I was 16 and I'm 48 now (BB says I'm wet behind the ears...LMAO).. machine shop in my basement...LOL
its not a big deal to trim the end!..

It ain't getting what you want..It's wanting what u got!
**I am a victim of Mod- Mania The bike itself was the cheap part!!!!!...**

__________________________________
2009 Suzuki DL650 VStrom 2014- Current
1983 Suzuki GS550ES 2014- June 2015(Sold)
2003 Honda ST1300 2013 2014 (sold)
2006 Suzuki M50 2009-2013 (sold)
**Married, Kids, etc etc etc**
1983 Suzuki GS550ES 1983-1985 (sold)
1980 Yamaha Seca 400 1982-1982(sold)
1980 Yamaha Exciter 250 1980-1982 (putt putt)(sold)
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