Suzuki Volusia Forum banner

How to guide: Adjusting your valves 101 with pics and vid

179K views 168 replies 93 participants last post by  bry 
#1 ·
Here’s another tutorial for those looking to save some money by adjusting their own valves.

Notice: This valve adjustment procedure was performed on a 2002 Suzuki Volusia with naked jugs (i.e. de-paired and de-filtered). Having a pair valve and/or air cleaner installed will require the removal of additional parts.

For this procedure, we need the following tools:

17mm, 10mm and a 8mm ratcheting box wrench (5/8” box wrench for Mustang seat)
3/8” socket wrench, 10mm socket, 12” extension
Phillips and slot screwdriver (size 2)
Suzuki spark plug socket (from toolkit)
Set of metric Allen wrenches
Needle nose pliers
Set of security bits from Harbor Freight (will explain later)
Feeler gauges (optional)
Spark plug gap tool (for gapping spark plugs)
Wire brush (for cleaning spark plugs)



The #10 security bit from this Harbor Freight set comes in handy for holding the valve adjustment screw in place.




The motorcycle must be completely cold before you can accurately adjust the valves (wait 24 hours after ridding it). Secure the motorcycle to a stand or jack at a comfortable working height.



Remove the seat using a 6mm Allen wrench. Mustang seats require a 5/8” box wrench. Use a 3/8" socket wrench and a 12mm socket to remove the bolt holding the gast tank to the frame.



Using a 3mm and 4mm Allen wrench, detach the speedometer housing from the gas tank. Slip back the boot on the wire harness underneath and squeeze the plug so it releases from the speedometer assembly.




Detach the vacuum hose, fuel line and idle adjustment from the left side of the gas tank using the needle nose pliers; position an old towel to catch the fuel from the hose.




With the handlebars straight, carefully lift up the back of the tank (near the seat) and disconnect the fuel gauge sensor plug. Then, carefully remove the fuel tank from the frame. Sit the fuel tank aside on a soft surface to prevent damage to the underside.



Remove the plastic neck covers from both sides to expose additional working area around the valves.



Loosen the hose clamp securing the carburetor to the intake using a Phillips screwdriver. Carefully lift up the carburetor off while rocking it back and forth. Put a towel under the carburetor to catch any excess fuel.




Using an 8mm ratcheting box wrench, remove the chrome sparkplug covers from both sides of the bike. Then, use the Suzuki spark plug socket and a 17mm ratcheting wrench to remove the spark plugs from the engine.



You are ready to remove the valve covers. I usually start with the harder to reach bolts because they are prone to falling. Using an 8mm ratcheting box wrench, slowly remove the hard to reach bolts on the rear right and front left covers.




Remove the 10mm nuts from the top of the bike using a 3/8” socket wrench, 10mm socket and 12” extension.



Remove the remaining bolts using a 8mm ratcheting box wrench. Be careful not to drop the bolts into hard to reach places.



Using a 10mm and 8mm Allen wrench, remove the caps from the engine covers. The large cover is where we will be rotating the engine with a socket wrench; the small cover is a viewing hole to align the RT/FT marks (more on this later).




Using a 3/8” socket wrench, 17mm socket and 12” extension, slowly rotate the engine counter clockwise. The valves will begin to move up and down on both cylinders. Be aware, you should NEVER rotate the engine clockwise as it may cause damage to the engine!



While slowly rotating the engine, use a flashlight to look into the viewing hole. Every full rotation of the engine, you will see an R/T and F/T mark pass by. These marks help you locate the adjustment positions for either the Front (F/T) or Rear (R/T) cylinders. These positions are also called Top Dead Center (TDC).




Continue rotating the engine. Take notice to the valves on top of the rear cylinder. They will open and close in the following pattern:

Exhaust – open (down)
Exhaust – close (up)
Intake – open (down)
Intake – close (up)

Here’s a video showing the above pattern:
http://s1225.photobucket.com/albums...a Riders/?action=view&current=valve_video.mp4

As soon as the intake valves on the rear cylinder close (as shown at the end of the video), use a flashlight to look for the R/T in the viewing hole. Slowly rotate the engine until the R/T mark is dead center in the viewing hole. This is the adjustment point for the rear cylinder. If you accidentally bypass the mark, you will have to rotate the engine around a couple times until the valves open and close again.

Finding the adjustment points on the front valves is done in a similar manner. Rotate the engine counter clockwise until both the exhaust and intake valves on the front cylinder have opened and closed. Use a flashlight and slowly rotate the engine until the F/T mark is dead center in the viewing hole.

Work on one cylinder at a time. Use a 10mm ratcheting box wrench to loosen the retention nuts around the valve adjustment screws. Loosen the valve adjustment screws using the #10 security bit until they can be rotated by hand.

You can adjust the valves using either a feeler gauge or the “Jpaige” method. A feeler gauge is arguably the most accurate method, but it’s also the most difficult method.

The specification for the exhaust and intake are as followed:
Exhaust - .007 - .009
Intake - .003 - .005

Insert the feeler gauge between valve adjustment screw and the lifter as shown. You will have to bend the tip of the feeler gauge to get an accurate adjustment on all the lifters.




The “Jpaige” method doesn’t require a feeler gauge. It’s based off a mathematical calculation of the screw’s thread pitch. You simply finger tighten the valve screw until it touches the valve lifter. Then, you back out the exhaust screw 1/4 turn (90 degrees) and the intake screw 1/8 turn (45 degrees).

Adjust and secure each valve individually. Use the #10 security bit tool to hold the valve adjustment screw in place while you tighten the retention nut with a 10mm ratcheting box wrench.



Assemble your bike in reverse order. If everything is adjusted properly, you should hear a very faint ticking noise at idle (commonly associated with a sewing machine). Improperly adjusted valves will result in excessive ticking noise, poor performance and overheating.

While everything is accessible, now is a good time to clean off or replace your sparkplugs and check the gap. Use a wire brush to clean off the soot and the gapping tool to adjust them as followed:
0.8 – 0.9mm (0.031 – 0.035 in)
 
See less See more
25
#27 ·
Thanks!

Never seems to fail, when I get around to doing this project I seem to have misplaced my hardcopy instructions... But I never fret, cause I know it's online somewhere here on VR. And to now to find it with pictures! Thanks for taking the time to document this! Already have my bike pulled apart and was verifying the Jpaige method and the F/T and R/T instructions. Thanks again! Hopefully I'll get a ride in this afternoon before the rain hits! Ride Safe!
 
#29 ·
yes
 
#31 ·
what damage con occur by rotating clockwise? i am doing my valves right now and did one rotation clockwise by accident. i was fine till i walked away to get another tool and came back are started clockwise in stead of counter. When i did the clockwise rotation it did sound different, kind of a lowe pitched errrr,errrr sound.

Why would the clymer manual state clockwise?
 
#32 ·
mxlj said:
what damage con occur by rotating clockwise? i am doing my valves right now and did one rotation clockwise by accident. i was fine till i walked away to get another tool and came back are started clockwise in stead of counter. When i did the clockwise rotation it did sound different, kind of a lowe pitched errrr,errrr sound.

Why would the clymer manual state clockwise?
Because they got it wrong.
going the wrong way sets the rings incorrectly
 
#33 ·
Boxwrench said:
mxlj said:
what damage con occur by rotating clockwise? i am doing my valves right now and did one rotation clockwise by accident. i was fine till i walked away to get another tool and came back are started clockwise in stead of counter. When i did the clockwise rotation it did sound different, kind of a lowe pitched errrr,errrr sound.

Why would the clymer manual state clockwise?
Because they got it wrong.
going the wrong way sets the rings incorrectly
ok, what exactly does it do to the rings? and will one turn clockwise do any damage?
 
#34 ·
mxlj said:
Boxwrench said:
mxlj said:
what damage con occur by rotating clockwise? i am doing my valves right now and did one rotation clockwise by accident. i was fine till i walked away to get another tool and came back are started clockwise in stead of counter. When i did the clockwise rotation it did sound different, kind of a Lowe pitched error,error sound.

Why would the clymer manual state clockwise?
Because they got it wrong.
going the wrong way sets the rings incorrectly
OK, what exactly does it do to the rings? and will one turn clockwise do any damage?
No. It is just that the rings wear in the direction of operation and take a set to how they seat. Just don't do it very often.
 
#36 ·
ECKS said:
Doing so can cause the cam chain to jump a tooth.
ya, that too.
 
#37 ·
ECKS said:
Doing so can cause the cam chain to jump a tooth.
now the cam tensioner or to much slack, jumping a tooth etc. something like that i could see. well i guess i will see what happens when i fire it up. everything possible is going wrong for me today. :brick: :vent:
couldnt get one valve cover bolt off, finally did (1/2hour + later). lost a socket, still havent found where it went but it was before any of the covers/plugs were taken off. rounded another valve cover bolt. the Factory or suzuki dealer put on way to tight. and if course it was one of the hard to get to ones. etc. etc. I could have rebuild both my motocross bike engines faster and easier than this is going for me. Just one of those days i guess.
 
#38 ·
Whao, that is a nice How-to! I checked valves today, and the clearance is at around 0.006 in. I wonder if the clearance can be detrimental to the bike's operation (at that value, my guess is no)? Valves were checked with cold engine, at a 13000km.

Thanks,
JD
 
#40 ·
I finally got around to adjusting my valves today, and thanks to this guide it went pretty well (pending a test ride).

One thing that helped a lot was the fact that I got a feeler gauge that has angled blades and disassembles so that you can take individual blades out of it. Here's a link to the specific tool: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_SPM223947147P?mv=rr

Once I figured out I could take the tool apart, the actual adjustment went quickly. Most of the time I spent was taking parts off to get to the valves.

My only note of caution is if you have any inclination to change your coolant, just drain it before you start the valve adjustment. I got in a hurry and started taking hoses off to get at the valve covers, and ended up with the entire contents of the radiator on the garage floor.
 
#41 ·
Ummm I have some Noob questions...

How do you know which is the intake and which is the exhaust valve? Maybe they are labeled? <-- I thought so, exhaust valves closest to exhaust.

Also on the video the valves seem to move up and down at the same time.

When the intake closes (up) and RT is in the view sight are both valves up and that is when you measure & adjust both at the same time? <-- Dho! I just realized... Intakes closed, valves down. Thanks Boxwrench.

"The V Shaped arm will be able to be moved ever so slightly up and down when you are on the right stroke"
Thanks t-man403. That's good insight.


Oh thanks also Smithy

ThANKS!
 
#42 ·
RT = Rear Top position
FT = Front Top position

means the cylinder is at the firing point and bothe valves are closed.
So at this point you can set the valves.

Be sure you are on the COMPRESSION stroke. It is possible to set the valves 180* off on the exhaust stroke....bad.....
 
#43 ·
Acerbus Volusia said:
Ummm I have some Noob questions...

How do you know which is the intake and which is the exhaust valve? Maybe they are labeled?

Also on the video the valves seem to move up and down at the same time.

When the intake closes (up) and RT is in the view sight are both valves up and that is when you measure & adjust both at the same time?

Maybe this will make more sense once I look in there I don't know. I'm going to try and do this Saturday, thanks guys!
Exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust pipes. RT is for the rear and FT for the front. The V Shaped arm will be able to be moved ever so slightly up and down when you are on the right stroke of the RT or FT. If not, rotate till you come to the marking again.
 
#45 ·
Timewarp said:
Appreciate the info...

Boxwrench said:
Be sure you are on the COMPRESSION stroke. It is possible to set the valves 180* off on the exhaust stroke....bad.....
K, how do you know you are on the COMPRESSION stroke?


and what does "bad" mean?
It's too early in the morning! :D "Bad" is wrong stroke for adjusting. Read my comment below "Boxwrench" and hopefully it will be a little clearer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tharba07
#46 ·
Bad = engine runs like fresh horse pucky......

To see if you are at Top Dead Center you can slide a Long thin rod like item ( too long to fall in all the way, non metallic better) in the plug hole and feel the piston stop going up
 
#47 ·
Acerbus Volusia said:
Also on the video the valves seem to move up and down at the same time.
They're not moving at exactly the same time, the intake opens just as the exhaust closes.

This page has an animation that gives you a good look at what's going on inside cylinder as the crank turns: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm

As you can see, the piston will be at the top of the stroke when the exhaust closes and the intake opens, but this is not the position you want to adjust the valves. Turn the engine one more rotation to get to top dead center.
 
#48 ·
Just finished. It was bit tough. The clearances between the screw and the valves is so small. My valves did not seem to have any before I adjusted them.

Whats a sign that the valve adjustment has been done correctly?

I did not test ride it, it's still on the lift since I'll lube the spline tomorrow.

Thanks guys.
 
#49 ·
Acerbus Volusia said:
Just finished. It was bit tough. The clearances between the screw and the valves is so small. My valves did not seem to have any before I adjusted them.

Whats a sign that the valve adjustment has been done correctly?

I did not test ride it, it's still on the lift since I'll lube the spline tomorrow.

Thanks guys.
snappier performance and a soft ticking of an angry sewing machine.
 
#50 ·
I can hear the ticking, I assume it's from the new clearence on the valves, and the sewing machine sound. Performance seemed the same. Hard to tell but it did feel different. A bit smoother. Someone said a noisy engine is a happy engine with the Vol, I guess its true.

I'll keep a close eye on performance and over heating just in case something is wrong.

I would suggest to people to get new gaskets for the valve covers. Also those screws seem to strip easily, take easy there. Thanks!
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top