t-bird

I have read about noticing slack in the wishbone when at top dead center-which i found. However, do i set the adjustment with this pulled up or just where it sits once the valve closes?

Pastran

thanks for this one Sticky

mareshjeizdo

Are the tolerance for all years.... mine is a 2010...

mgdje1

Another valve adjustment completed using this sticky. It is amazing how this simple thread makes it so easy to get one done. Figured I would go naked also, so removed the football while I had her torn apart.

Thanks again to all the hard work and assistance of all here. By far the greatest forum out there.


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WichitaWade

Just purchased an 08 c50t w/ 22k miles and no indication that the valves had ever been adjusted. I just adjusted them following the instructions of this thread. I found them all to be considerably tight. I was able to use a feeler guage on the rear cylinder, but couldn't seem to get it to work for me on the front, so I reverted to the jpeg method.

The valve chatter took me aback a bit. It certainly was a lot more noticible than before.

Questions:

First, would it be uncommon to find all the valves to be considerably tight if they hadn't been adjusted for such a long time?

Then, would adjusting them to specs make that much of a difference in the sound of the valve chatter to appear alarming?

During the post adjustment test ride the bike did ride out flawlessly. I did notice a difference in the exhaust sound as other posts have indicated. Also, behind the windshield and lowers, I could really hear the valve sing at highway speed.

Is all this normal?

BigT

Should be ok bud. Depends if it sounds like a pissed off sewing machine your fine. If it sounds like a machine gun on steroids you may be a little loose or you pissed someone off and thats an actual machine firing atcha! ! Lol anyway the ticking is the nature of the beast bud. I remember the first time I adjusted the valves on my 89 honda prelude ( ok shut up I was 16 alright!) I nearly crapped down both legs when I fired it up. I thought I really screwed up because before the valve adjustment it was quiet yet it ran crappy on a good day. my dad went back and rechecked my work the next day as informed I did good on em. I asked him why it sounded like it was about to fall apart. In his words "thats just a **** rice burner for ya boy get use to it. If it aint tickin its prolly bout to die." I took it for a drive and it ran better than the day I bought it. Long story short metric cars and bikes typically use adjustable valve tappets which are very hard metal. A lot of american stuff uses bottom out type valvetrain ( not all and not as common on newer models) because americans are, dare I say it, to lazy to check em! There you have it. If in doubt recheck em bud.:beer:

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dliddell

Just about time to adjust my valves. Thanks for the post.

WichitaWade

i followed someone's post about setting to the high range. think i will go back and reset to the low range to see if it makes that much difference. i figure i can do it in @ 4 hrs this time. getting to know my bike intimately through the process. that may not be a bad thing after all.

after reading other posts regarding valve tightening, i can be certain of the tightness i found throughout, not having been adjusted in 22k miles. i just hope the lack of care by the previous owner hasn't shortened the lifespan of the engine.

cza888

I set mine in the middle range: intake @ .004 exhaust @ .008 found that the engine is quite happy in that range. +1 on the sewing machine sound

as for damage, if the bike runs great, then I'd say it's okay, nothing really you can do about now. Just keep the valve lash adjustments on schedule and keep on truckin'.

Regular maintenance is the key to a happy and healthy bike.

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2012 C50T

WichitaWade

Reset the valves to .003 & .007. What a difference. Now has that sewing machine sound. Purrs like a kitten and runs like a speckled *** ape. I'll use these setings every 7500 miles from here on. Couldn't sound or run any better.

For me, the key to getting the valves set with feeler guages was to completely remove the locking nut, back the rocker arm stem out far enough to get the feeler guage squarely on the valve, finger tighten the stem onto the guage then run the nut back down on the stem and tighten while holding the stem with the security tip. This allows ample room to work the guage onto even the hardest to reach valve stem.

I was careful when removing the locking nut by using a magnetic reach tool to prevent the nut from being accidently dropped by my fumbly fingers. I replaced them in the same manner. Don't need those things falling into who knows where.

Thanks for such a helpful post.