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post #21 of 134 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 03:43 AM
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I went through this step by step. The bike seems to be shifting much smoother now. However, the cluth doesn't start to engage until I have the clutch lever out almost all the way. What am I doing wrong?

2008 C50 Blue and Silver
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post #22 of 134 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 11:11 AM Thread Starter
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Help in fine tuning

Quote:
Originally Posted by short_fuse
I went through this step by step. The bike seems to be shifting much smoother now. However, the cluth doesn't start to engage until I have the clutch lever out almost all the way. What am I doing wrong?
Short_fuse,

First off, hat's off to you for working on this yourself. It is a giant step toward breaking the ice on technical adjustments on your bike. It's also a lesson in why the dealers often do a crappy job of these things...more than one step and a weak mechanic will blow it off and do something easy or nothing at all! You're proving that new to it or not, you're no weak mechanic and that you care how it comes out.

What you're experiencing is due to the combination of all 3 adjustment areas. Most likely is the actual lower adjustment that has the outer locking nut and the center slot adjustment.

1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.

2.) Set the clutch lever free play at the end of the cable housing.
Make sure that you've loosened the lock nut and screw up or down to get the 10-15mm needed at the lever end.

3.) Get that main adjustment.
a.) Make sure that the lock nut is loosened correctly.
b.) Make sure that the center adjuster is backed off correctly and then turned inward till you get resistance, then backed off 1/4 turn.
c.) Check that you've held the center adjuster with a slot screwdrive while you tighten the locking nut. I don't use blue loc-tite here, since it can be tricky to break loose with an adjuster pair like this.

Once you've check all these things, remember that you can leave the covers off while you start the bike and drive it for a moment to get the settings just right. The fact that there are 3 adjustment areas is the reason for the ease with which you can be off a little, but is also the reason you can tweak it in just right, even with a fairly worn clutch.



Enjoying every mile I can.
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post #23 of 134 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 03:27 PM
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Dr. Clutch...calling Dr. Clutch....to the VR! STAT !!!

thanks for this thread Dean. I MAY have to check into my settings...my shifter seems a bit on the clunky side.


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post #24 of 134 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 05:02 PM
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Thanks Dean. I was just pondering this myself, and viola, here it is.

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post #25 of 134 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 10:37 PM
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Re: Help in fine tuning

Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMan
1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.
I'm lost on this part. Are you saying to screw the threaded adjuster in the lever clockwise like screwing in a bolt? Or counter closkwise like you were going to remove it, but leave it screwed in enough that the locknut is threaded on?
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post #26 of 134 (permalink) Old 06-16-2008, 10:59 PM
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Great Information Dean.
I just hope its not agent orange.
Cheers,
Din-K-dau

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post #27 of 134 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 06:47 AM
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Re: Help in fine tuning

Basically, make it as loose as possible by screwing the adjustment all the way in because you are going to tighten it below and then finalize the feel up at the handlebar lever.

Quote:
Originally Posted by harryp
Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMan
1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.
I'm lost on this part. Are you saying to screw the threaded adjuster in the lever clockwise like screwing in a bolt? Or counter closkwise like you were going to remove it, but leave it screwed in enough that the locknut is threaded on?

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post #28 of 134 (permalink) Old 06-17-2008, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Loo Two
................ Today, while riding 2 up, in the rain, noticed the clutch slipping. Once I got the bike in the garage, I decided to print your post and adjust my clutch. .....................
FYI... I DON"T KNOW IF THE SAME RULES GO FOR SUZUKI AND HD... BUT... YOU SHOULD NOT BE DONE WHEN THE BIKE IS WARM... IT MUST BE AT ROOM TEMPERATURE!!!

If done when the bike is warm it will be misadjusted and might lead to clutch slippage or failure!!!

At least thats what it says in the HD Manual... Don't know about the Suzuki...

Just a thought...

RON

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post #29 of 134 (permalink) Old 06-20-2008, 10:28 AM
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Went through the whole process again on Tuesday and only took it for a short test ride. Felt better. It finally stopped raining and warmed up a bit today so I went for a ride. It's like riding a completely different bike! I've only had it for a month and been riding with the dealer clutch setting. It was clunking when I shifted and when my wife was riding with me her helmet would hit the back of mine from the jerking/lurching when I shifted. No more of that. Clunking and jerking are gone. It's so smooth now that the shifts can hardly be felt. Thanks again IronMan!
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2008 C50 Blue and Silver
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post #30 of 134 (permalink) Old 06-21-2008, 09:16 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Help in fine tuning

Quote:
Originally Posted by harryp
Quote:
Originally Posted by IronMan
1.)Double check the clutch lever adjuster. The cable's threaded end has to be screwed all the way toward the lever itself, giving just enough room for the circular locknut to be fully threaded and sitting against the stop. This will insure that you have adjustment room after everything is set.
I'm lost on this part. Are you saying to screw the threaded adjuster in the lever clockwise like screwing in a bolt? Or counter closkwise like you were going to remove it, but leave it screwed in enough that the locknut is threaded on?
According to the manual, screw the upper end of the cables' housing all the way in. That would make it clockwise. You have to leave enough room at the end of those threads to allow the locking wheel to engage firmly up against the lever assembly.



Enjoying every mile I can.
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