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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 08:20 PM
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The stock turn signal/running lamp combos are 21 watts for each bulb. My new non-led turn signals are 3.2 watts each. I saved 71.2 watts just by replacing the turn signal/running lamps.

The stock 55 watt halogen headlight pulls in the neighborhood of 8 amps (96 watts, loss is due to heat that it puts out). My 35 watt HID is 3.2 amps (38.4 watts, lots less heat with HID, more efficient, and puts out more light). That's 57.6 watts of power freed up.

128.8 watts of power gained with less than $50 of investment. That along with your 100 watt figure gives 19 amps of 12v current available before you hit zero balance. Everything I listed (gloves, jacket liner, pant liner, and shoe liner) pull 13.4 amps of current per the Gerbing website. So I'm still 5.6 amps ahead of the game. Not to mention, nobody rides around with all their gear wide open, you would burn to a crisp. So with the pulsed nature of these items, I have no issues.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Furbird View Post
The stock turn signal/running lamp combos are 21 watts for each bulb. My new non-led turn signals are 3.2 watts each. I saved 71.2 watts just by replacing the turn signal/running lamps.

The stock 55 watt halogen headlight pulls in the neighborhood of 8 amps (96 watts, loss is due to heat that it puts out). My 35 watt HID is 3.2 amps (38.4 watts, lots less heat with HID, more efficient, and puts out more light). That's 57.6 watts of power freed up.

.
what exactly are these type lamps you switched to...be it the headlight or the non-led turn signals/running lamps

Whats the big hurry...slow down and enjoy the ride!

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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-19-2012, 11:10 PM
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The headlight is the compact ballast version HID unit. I run the single filament version, which means no high beam, which is not a problem with the HID since it's about double the light output over a halogen unit.

The turn signals are the little arrow style ones. They use a 194 series wedge amber bulb with a clear lense, instead of the 1157 bulb in the factory housings with amber lenses. The signals do flash faster than the original ones, but it is still enough resistance to trigger the flash pattern without having to switch out to an LED style flasher relay.

Here is what my signals look like:
Set of Four Chrome Clear Motorcycle Turn Signals | eBay

These are the HID units that are the most similar to what I have. The ballast and all fits in the headlight housing:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/xeno-HID-KIT...28774d&vxp=mtr
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-20-2012, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Furbird View Post
The stock turn signal/running lamp combos are 21 watts for each bulb. My new non-led turn signals are 3.2 watts each. I saved 71.2 watts just by replacing the turn signal/running lamps.

The stock 55 watt halogen headlight pulls in the neighborhood of 8 amps (96 watts, loss is due to heat that it puts out). My 35 watt HID is 3.2 amps (38.4 watts, lots less heat with HID, more efficient, and puts out more light). That's 57.6 watts of power freed up.

128.8 watts of power gained with less than $50 of investment. That along with your 100 watt figure gives 19 amps of 12v current available before you hit zero balance. Everything I listed (gloves, jacket liner, pant liner, and shoe liner) pull 13.4 amps of current per the Gerbing website. So I'm still 5.6 amps ahead of the game. Not to mention, nobody rides around with all their gear wide open, you would burn to a crisp. So with the pulsed nature of these items, I have no issues.
WOW! Furbird ,Great information.

I am now looking at LED options to free up sum power for the jacket liner.

2010 Victory Cross Roads.
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-22-2012, 02:19 PM Thread Starter
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Heated clothing.

I have on order,

4 replacement LED lamps for the four running/directional lights.
1 electronic flasher relay- to regulate the flash rate.
1 Firstgear 90 watt jacket liner.

If you like, I will give a review of the equipment after install.

2010 Victory Cross Roads.
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 06:42 AM
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Rich, there is such a simple solution to this: Just upgrade the whole darn bike already

Carsten

2004 BMW R1150RT
2006 Yamaha Stratoliner S (sold)
2006 Kawasaki Nomad 1600 (sold)
2005 Suzuki C50 (sold)


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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 08:32 AM Thread Starter
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Rich, there is such a simple solution to this: Just upgrade the whole darn bike already
That ain't going to happen. I just purchased another lightly used C50T and I am moving everything from the old bike that makes in mine to the newer bike.

It's funny how some times I get confused as to which bike I am working on. Am I taking this part off or putting in on. (old age?).

It's nice not having to learn how to take care of a new bike. I know how to take care of the C50 so that makes it much easier.

2010 Victory Cross Roads.
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-24-2012, 11:23 AM
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I use the tourmaster synergy 2 jacket liner and also the synergy 2 leather gloves. My bike does have a light bar.
I was very worried about it at 1st after reading all of the warnings, but have had zero problems.
1st, you will not have the jacket turned on high. I rode a few days ago when it was 37 and I had it on 3. Could have done 2 and not been cold - I like being extra warm tho.
So the chances of the bike seeing the full draw of the liner are pretty slim.
I wear a ventilated jacket down to the low 40's and still never go past 3.
One thing I do tho is only use my high beam if necessary. It does not dim, but I figure better safe than sorry as I am hoping this bike will last me a few years and don;t feel like changing a stator.
I am actually adding heated grips too as there are many a time when it is just cool out - heated gloves may be too much (bulkier) and the heated grips will be just right. I wouldn't ever use the grips, the liner and the gloves at the same time tho.
I have not put a meter on my bike when riding, but I have put a meter on the battery after I got home and had the gloves and liner on. Still read a full charge. Now that does not tell me if the stator is over working, but it is keeping up with the battery anyway.
After having the heated gear, especially the liner, I could not see me never not owning any. It is soooooo convenient. No matter the weather, I do not have to dress in layers. I just go wearing whatever I have on, slide on my pants, put on my jacket and go......and am as toasty as I want to be.


Last edited by donberry; 11-24-2012 at 11:26 AM.
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 11-24-2012, 07:56 PM
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I use a "Dakota" heated jacket ................ powered by rechargeable battery. No load on the electrical at all. Three heat settings. Will run on low for the day and low has been all I have needed as I wear it as a liner under the leather. Charge it back up at the end of the day or with a small inverter on the bike which I have not needed to use.


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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 12-01-2012, 05:05 PM Thread Starter
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I installed the 4 LED directional and brake lamps and the electronic flasher today. Very good results. very bright and crisp lighting.

Started bike and checked voltage, 14.2 vdc. at idle.

Hooked up the new 90Watt jacket liner and the 30watt gloves, set duel controls to full. WOW! hot-hot-hot. Checked voltage with full load and still 14.2 vdc. at idle.

I think I am good to go.

2010 Victory Cross Roads.
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