C50TinAB

Unless I'm loosing something in the translation I'm not agreeing. In a lock-up the tire has LOST traction and they are now just sliding and as a result you've lost your shortest possible stopping distance. The whole purpose of anti-lock brakes is to prevent the operator in a panic stop from going over that threshold and into a lock-up (i.e. slide). Similarly a reverse rotation of the tire from the direction of travel is still skidding the tires which again is just another word for slide. A locked wheel is NOT maximum braking power.

If you do get into a lock-up then, as others have pointed out, there are things to do to keep the situation from getting worse.

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'09 C50T Black/Grey

GrapeApe

During my MSF course someone asked the same. The problem is while the front it most of the braking power ~70%, its not all. In an emergency stop you need more than 70%.

Best is to adjust the rear so its harder to lock, more for slow dragging really, and practice.

This more from my MSF instructor than me.

Furbird

I agree it is not all the braking, but considering that a drum brake progressively clamps harder on it's on, whereas a disc brake does not, you have to factor in that the ability of your foot to modulate pressure is much lower than the ability of your hand. You are far more likely to lock the rear tire in a panic brake situation anyway, and that combined with the auto-ramping brake force of the drum brake leaves my foot on the floorboard to not make a potential bad situation worse.

Two Red Ryders

Every Emergency Stop is different congratulations on not hitting a deer or going down.

In Emergencies I try to remember not to look at the potential crash point as the bike tends to go where you look; So I focus on looking for a way to escape.

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The United States of America, founded on the principle that "all men are created equal; with unalienable rights; that among these are life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness Red & Black C50

Moto-Suzzi G50

Ok read the original post. He did in fact lock the back wheel, let go of the back brake and it snapped back. He was lucky. Why over analyze this?

stancotreau

Hi, if you adjust your rear brake so it's harder to lock that's a good start.

then head out to a parking lot and practice quick stops. here are some tips
1) push progressively, not aggressively on your rear brake.
2) same with the pressure on the front brake
3) keep your clutch in, downshift to first during the stop
4) look straight ahead, and up this will keep you balanced
5) if you lock the rear wheel ...... KEEP IT LOCKED

this is what I emphasize during my MSF classes, only practice makes you good at it. Practice both with and without your passenger. go to you tube and search msf classes, then you can watch the quickstop exercise being demonstrated

good luck
Stan

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MSF Ridercoach
Billerica MA
2009 C50SE with lindby multibar, slip streamer windshield , Leatherlyke contemporary saddlebags and a grasshopper drivers backrest (purchased used from a forum member), Kuryakyn grips with ISO throttle boss

dfinitlydisturbd

MSF, classes are the bomb! I had almost 2 decades of riding under my belt when I attended my first, learned a lot! Didn't cost me anything other than time, was nice to not have to use my bike (aside from fears of dropping it, we had a fellow student come around a curve and plow into where the rest of us were parked and waiting for our turn on the course several bikes severely damaged including the the MSF loaner I was using. Hadn't even considered that a possibility). To not attend at least one course especially if you're new to the road is just foolish.

One thing that seems to be missing in all this braking instruction is the rear (or a downshift) is needed to shift the bikes mass to the front wheel, Just locking the front (and it can be done) at speed results in pushing a locked front tire, at which point you have no steering and little braking force. Applying the rear (or downshifting) first in a hard stop allows more brake to be used out front without the front going into a skid.

MSF instructors are crazy though! During our braking tests our instructor would stand half way down the measured braking area painted on the course and would literally step right in front of the oncoming bikes as soon as they passed leading edge of the box! Interesting fact, a Rebel will stop in less than 15 feet from 35mph...though I did catch flack for not shifting to first before I was stopped, and I'm sure folks with quicker reaction times could whittle that down further.

Eurotrash

I would add to the list to keep very aware of what the traffic is doing, especially behind you, and if possible position yourself in exit strategies.
Most drivers, and some riders are very inattentive of what is happening around them and ahead of them.
One of my pucker moments consisted of 3 deer crossing a two-lane Hwy and having a maroon in a 1-ton black pick-up flying up behind me.

As you're quickly bleeding off speed you can be downshifting, so in case you need to move out of the way you will not stall.
And yes, once you're stopped ... keep it in 1st and keep a sharp lookout.

topazdog

Grab the front brake as much as you want... The c50 front wheel brakes aren't great and you probably can't get it to lock. And practice emergency braking when two up.

Be careful not to step on the rear brake first.

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topazdog@comcast.net

OzriderC50T

Found this....a few surprising bits.

http://www.fmq.qc.ca/pdf/amorce-freinage_eng.pdf

The table is just a summary, have a look at the full PDF.

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Cheers, Ozrider



2011 C50T

http://ozboulevards.com/