BIGBIRD123

That makes it too easy...I like a challenge...lol

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2005 C50 R.I.P.
2006 HD Street Glide...V&H Fuel Pak with V&H True Duals and Stage 1 Air...
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Againstallodds

I know there are modulators but like big bird said - too easy. Besides no fun in juz buying something and plugging it up. Thts what everyone else does. VR folk make stuff


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Againstallodds

Something useful here

The Aftermarket Lights FAQ.htm

mondarlo

You're right, I got it backwards as usual. Sometimes I talk without thinking. I knew one set had double filaments.

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Againstallodds

My bike has single filaments both front and rear.
Plus the turn signal lense covers are glued on. need to saw them open to change bulbs
its illegal to have rear turn signals always on if they are yellow. Need to change the lenses to red. If i do that, im pretty sure it wont match the led tail light. So its not gonna look good unless i get led turn signals as well or just leave them yellow.

Therefore no always on signals for me.

But im still going to play around with the wires a little bit. i want to see what would happen if I splice into the front turn signal wires with an always on power source. Then maybe open up the turn signal switch on the handlebar and have a lookie...

v0lusia

Have spare fuses, you are going to need them.


The best option is to buy different signals

Almost any turn signal will work. On the front they are 3 wire signals (ground, running, turn) on the back they are 2 wire (turn and ground). They use different bulbs (1157 front, 1156 rear)

Here is some other helpful info
Some are small and likely not DOT approved so if your state has "tight" inspections they may not pass.

There are multiple types of turn signals/running lights some can only be used for one function (turn OR running) others can be used for both functions.

1 wire - one function only - running light OR turn signal
Connections:

• Connect the one wire to the brown wire on the bike for running light, the light green for Right turn, Black for left turn
  The negative (ground) is made through the mounting bolt, these lights won't work until you connect the bolt to a metal part on the bike.

2 wire - one function only - running light OR turn signal
Connections:

• Connect the positive wire on the signal to the brown wire on the bike for running light, the light green for right turn, black for left turn.
  Connect the negative wire on the signal to the black wire with white stripe

2 wire - two function - running light AND turn signal
Connections:

• Connect one of the positive wires on the signal to the brown wire on the bike for running light
  Connect the other positive wire on the signal to the light green on the bike for right turn, black for left turn.
  The negative (ground) is made through the mounting bolt, these lights won't work until you connect the bolt a metal part on the bike.
  If when you test the running light is brighter than the turn signal swap the two positive wires

3 wire - two function - running light AND turn signal
Connections:

• Connect one of the positive wires on the signal to the brown wire on the bike for running light
  Connect the other positive wire on the signal to the light green for Right turn, Black for left turn.
  Connect the negative wire to the black with white stripe on the bike.
  If when you test the running light is brighter than the turn signal swap the two positive wires

The wires to the front signals are in the headlight
Headlight Bucket colors
Ground - Black with White stripe (multiple)
Light Green - Right turn signal
Black - Left Turn Signal
Gray - Running lights
Yellow - High Beam
White - Low Beam
Orange/Blue - Aux Power (light bar connector, seperate 10 amp fuse)



The rear signals are under the taillight
Brown (becomes gray at the tail light)---running light
Black with White stripe---ground
Black---left turn
Light Green---right turn
White Wire with Black stripe---brake light

In the headlight bucket there is
Orange-with-green is (+) and black-with-white is (-) with a white (usually) connector on the end. These are for wiring up the lightbar. They are on when the key is on. They are protected by a 10amp fuse.
Black with a white stripe is ground (-) thoughout the bike

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Steve Gray

There is another way, but it is somewhat involved and you will need to modify your wiring.
You can change your turn signal and hazard switches to switch battery voltage (instead of the flasher signal from the fuse box), use the new signal to switch relays, and then use the relays to switch the turn signals.
You would need a relay with a normally open / normally closed contact set. The normally closed would be wired to battery voltage, the relay common terminal to the turn signals (one relay per side) and the normally open contact would wire to the flasher unit in the fuse box. What happens is that the signals would normally be on through the normally closed contact set, and then when you switch on the right or left signal switch, it would activate the right or left relay and allow the flasher unit to take over for that side. The diodes in the hazard switch signal isolate left and right so they don't short together (meaning that both the left and right would flash like hazards if they weren't there). They only allow the hazard switch to pull both relays on (high) leaving the left / right turn signal switch signals isolated. You can use pretty much any diode... I would go for 1n4003, 1n4004... 1n4007 (any from that series, 1n4003-7)

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No bikes that run!

grego

A plug-n-play alternative is the Kissan Signalminder. But if you are so inclined it might be more fun perhaps to wire up something yourself.