TNTherapy

Concerning insurance. I spoke with Progressive Customer Service and they went to the claims department for an answer.

As long as you do no FRAME, drive or wheel changes to the bike, it would be covered for liability and comp/colision. As all former discussion did not include any of these changes, insurance should not be an issue.

I have the spoke wheels and am planning on getting the Goodyear Viva 2 185/65/15 and will have them use a radial tube when mounting. I believe that I've read somewhere that 40psi was the recommended pressure. I have a motorcycle shop that will mount (probably with a disclaimer) for $45, including taking it off the bike.

Any thoughts or replies?

472viper

From what I've read, you are going to want to experiment with tire pressure to find the "sweet spot".

CT on motorcycles is a science all to itself, there is even less known about CT on a 675lb Suzuki.

Lot's of data on CT on Goldwings, Valkries, Nomads, big heavy touring bikes.

Just not a whole lot of experience out there with doing it on this bike.

__________________
2006 M50/C50/109fender/ SE 50 wheels and HD bags
2007 1600 Kawasaki Classic*SOLD*
2008 FLHX Street Glide 105th Anniversary #1387
USAF 1973-1977
SoDak ANG 1977-2010

Run my fingers across the bars of his cage and make the little monkey dance

dfinitlydisturbd

Done it. Wet traction for stopping and starting was noticeably better, cornering was squirrelier. Mileage was ok, no drastic improvement over a slightly more expensive Kenda Kruz rear.

Vivas suck! trust me!

Was not worth the money or effort! (they're a hair small in the bead)

If you're just going darkside for the mileage save yourself effort, frustration, and cash. Get a set of Kenda Kruz, they're cheap (about $170 for the front and rear together), ride and handle well, and last upwards of 20,000miles. I swapped my last set out at 25k with just barely enough tread left to squeak through inspection.

If you must go DS (I used to so I could run a studded snow rear in the winter) you run LOWER pressure! It will ride like a ton of bricks if you run at normal or higher pressure. Also seek out a 15.5" tire. Just a heads up you have to seal the rim. AND Vol./C50 rims do not fair too well with C/Ts. I've had spokes snap just from hitting potholes. C/Ts also put more strain on the brake and spokes when braking, and the driveline and spokes during acceleration thanks to the extra weight around the outside. I'll tell you what spokes are $90 a set. Then there's the fee for the tow. Then you need to pay (on average $100+) someone to lace the rim. The savings disappear pretty quick when you start factoring additional repairs and related expenses. Which is why I don't run a C/T on the rear anymore.

dfinitlydisturbd

1. The problem with the bike tube is that properly inflated it's too small...Ok so why can't you just inflate it bigger? Because as you inflate it bigger you 1.over stress it and 2.make the pores in the rubber larger causing it to leak air. It's not a fast leak but fast enough to require a constant eye on tire pressure (ie. check before every ride), and the additional stress will cause the tube to fail over time.

2.I didn't like it. Was a nightmare to mount, didn't last all that long, and ruined my spokes.

3.Nope, even moved up to a 200 studded snow for a couple winters. Again was hard on the spokes, but significantly better in the snow than the M/C tires available. Still dreaming of finding a 16" rear rim that will work with my Vol. so I can mount some carbide studded enduro rubber out back.

dfinitlydisturbd

Hey! Don't knock it, it works. Mines still holding at 5 years+
And even though I ride on M/C rubber on both ends now both tires are still tubeless

And unlike the folks that go for the epoxy seal i can still get access to my spokes if need be without a lot of BS and paying someone to seal them again.