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Hotter Spark Plugs

6K views 9 replies 6 participants last post by  Mort 
#1 ·
So feeling happy with the clutch I decided to tackle the valves. Must say on an 08 C50T you got to remove the throttle body to get to the rear cylinder and a bunch of other stuff but this really has nothing to do with the topic so here is what I want to know, can I run the next plug down in number/ I.E. "hotter" and not hurt the bike? I have a power commander and have the bike dyno'd to run on the rich side at bottom for torque and lean out towards the top for fuel economy at highway speeds. Anyway the plugs are showing this by being a little on the black side. Electrode and ceramic look good, black around the base of the plug. :wtf: Thanks ,Mikey.
 
#2 ·
Generally, hotter spark plugs are used in an engine that is running rich or uses oil. The hotter plug burns the contamination off and keeps the plugs from fouling.

Any soot around the base of the plug is just that. It does not indicate the running condition of the engine. What you should be concerned with is the condition of the electrode tip and the surrounding insulator.

A grayish tan to while color on the insulator and tip indicates the correct spark plug is in use, the fuel and ignition systems are in good shape and overall engine mechanical condition is good. Soft, black, sooty, dry-looking deposits on the tip and insulator indicate a rich air fuel mixture, weak ignition or wrong heat range spark plug (too cold). That is when you would consider changing to a hotter spark plug.
 
#3 ·
Skrapiron said:
Generally, hotter spark plugs are used in an engine that is running rich or uses oil. The hotter plug burns the contamination off and keeps the plugs from fouling.

Any soot around the base of the plug is just that. It does not indicate the running condition of the engine. What you should be concerned with is the condition of the electrode tip and the surrounding insulator.

A grayish tan to while color on the insulator and tip indicates the correct spark plug is in use, the fuel and ignition systems are in good shape and overall engine mechanical condition is good. Soft, black, sooty, dry-looking deposits on the tip and insulator indicate a rich air fuel mixture, weak ignition or wrong heat range spark plug (too cold). That is when you would consider changing to a hotter spark plug.
Well the second statement I would say matches my plug condition, so I am going to go to the next hotter plug. Thanks.
 
#5 ·
plugs

I am in the same boat I also needing a hotter plug then. So I asked for a hotter plug at the parts store and they looked at me like I was crazy so could someone tell me the part number on the hotter plug that way I don't get the crazy look again.lol I am running a factory NKG plug now.
 
#6 ·
I read somewhere that an old Hot Rodder's trick was to grind back the outer electrode on a spark plug so that it is not completely covering the center electrode. Thus exposing more of the spark to the fuel/air mixture. Don't suppose anyone here has tried that on your scoot have you??
 
#8 ·
Kimo said:
I read somewhere that an old Hot Rodder's trick was to grind back the outer electrode on a spark plug so that it is not completely covering the center electrode. Thus exposing more of the spark to the fuel/air mixture. Don't suppose anyone here has tried that on your scoot have you??
Snake oil. That was the theory behind Split-Fire plugs. They made all sorts of claims about power, fuel economy and emissions. The reality is, a spark is a spark, is a spark. It doesn't matter the source or the location.

A 'hotter' plug does not create a 'hotter' spark. It means that the insulator holds more heat in the cylinder head, instead of conducting it out and cooling the cylinder head. It increases the operating temperature, which is helpful in burning off residual gasses of an over-rich air/fuel mix, or if there is significant oil blow-by. It won't create any more power, won't improve the fuel economy, but it may improve the emissions (specifically N02 - more complete combustion).
 
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